desertdude

Meh, how is that even considered a "personal attack" specially after barrage of abuse. Thats called a restrained response. Anyways what eva trevor.

who ever designed such a bullshit way just to fold seats should be shot!

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I went two years back. It was alright, but I had VIP passes.

Ah. No the test is for when its working. One tge engine warms up the clucth engages and stay engaged until the engine bay temp falls below a certain level. So you can check it with or engine running. There ia no second function the engine fan and clutch have just ONE function.. And the symptoms you described could also be of a clogged radiator or water pump not working at 100% efficiency. Worn, broken rusted blades etc etc. So thats why I said make 1000% sure the clutch is not working. You dont want to end up with egg on your face after going through this whole ordeal only to find out it wasnt the clutch that was causing the engine temp to spike.

First of all, make 1000% sure the fan is defective and its not something else that is causing the overheat. To ways. 1st check is to bring the car up to temp so that the clutch should be engaged, then switch off the car, and try to spin the fan by hand, it should have good resistance, and should not spin freely, maximum 1/4 to 1/2 turn and should stop. You should not get a good 1 or 1.5 rotation or more. Second is a bit risky, so do at your own risk. Roll up a good wad of newspaper or thick magazine and with the engine running at temp. Try to slowly put the roll of newspaper in the fan, after a few taps if you are able to successfully stop the fan from spinning while the engine is still running, then your clutch is toast. The video uses only a single sheet, my advice is to get a good thick-ish roll Second Barry is, right escalate the matter up on all levels, write to Habtoor, Mitsubishi Middle East AND Mitsubishi Japan. I had a friend who had great success in doing so after the dealer refused to fix a few issues on his ride making all sorts of excuses as to why. In the end he got an entire new dashboard, 4 rims and tyres fitted free of cost and from then onwards, he was marked as a VIP customer in the dealers system and whatever he wanted he got ASAP. But the car was under warranty then. But no harm in trying. Naming and shaming with the advent of new cyber laws can actually backfire and get you in trouble for libel and defamation instead, so I'd be very careful what I say on a public forum.

Your first legal hurdle will be to prove its a fake with conclusive proof, I have no idea how you are going to go about doing it. Just because it failed doesn't mean its a fake. Also they can come up with a million excuses why its your fault it failed. Improper installation etc etc. Then if their receipt specially mentions no refunds or exchanges, them Im sorry there isn't much you can do. Hope you get it sorted out though.

Like father like son

Photoshop

Between 10-15k max depending on condition

Maybe they have upgraded their stuff. Last time I used the Launch X431 it couldn't even calibrate a 1998 Range Rovers Air Suspension let alone do anything finer.

You didn't get what I was trying to say. IMO Barrys statement was factually incorrect. That he has dealer level access with the Launch. Systems like Launch are great for independent shops like yours who work on a plethora of vehicles. And your question is also fundamentally wrong. Testbook, Star, Consult and not multibrand systems. They are specific to one brand. So ofcourse you can read a lexus on a consult. Thats like trying to play a cassette tape in a CD player. But these dealer level tools go very deep into their brands systems. For example with the launch Can you check each and every pixel block on the LCD on the oodometer. Trigger the each independently to visibly see of they working. Trigger each flap inside the dash of HVAC system. Can it reprogram ECUs ans BeCEMs etc etc. This kind of fine trouble shooting only comes with dealer level tools.

Yeah.......about that. I've used the Launch X431 and Launch were the first widely available diagnostic tool here. Its pretty good, but no where even close to dealer level diagnostic tools or some brand specific tools available nowadays. For example the Test Book for the dealer variant for Land Rover or Autologic and GAP diagnostic for the independent market. Similarly STAR for Mercs or Consult for Nissan. Not saying it aint good but it doesn't go as deep.

Reverse clutch pack has taken a dump

Read the article. The battery pack is sealed ans stay submerged in 1meter for water for 30minutes. And the interior is designed to be hosed off with water if its gets muddy.

Those are different types of batteries. Let me give you an easy example. Like you phone. When its running its running. Your phone doesnt start to slow down i.e start losing reception or transmitting weaker, browsing becomes slower when it reaches 75%, 50%, 35% until a preset level is reached amd it goes into battery saver mode and most you can chose that level or even skip it. Another similar example is laptop batteries. Hope its clearer now

I with James May aka Capt Slow on this one. If you want to ruin a car make it " make it tested on Nurburgring" because then that car becomes good for only one thing. Good laptimes on that circuit and absolutely shyte at everything else.

Yeah but unlike gas, you can just go to the gas station and refill in 5 mins or have to change the engine every 3 or so years. Thats what I was saying the range figures on the electrics are under optimal conditions just like mog figures from the vehicle manufacturers which are never true in real world situation and add dune bashing into the mix where your right foot spends most of the time mashed to the floor. Thats why I said it'll be great for the two dunes you can cross before it runs out of juice.

Electric motors have much more instant and stable grunt. They are producing 100% of their power and torque from the word go, unlike internal combustion you don't have to reach a certain rpm to get max power or stay within certain rpm band for optimal torque. And this rated at quite a few 100 horsepowers would be rip through the one or two dunes it will attack before running out of power. Thats the biggest Achilles heel of todays electric vehicles. Range ans recharge times along with beinf bulky and very expensive to replace which you have to within 3-5 years and even less in a hot place like this

Oh please dont use the word enthusiasm, reminds me of someone from the past, mine and yours both. Hint : Wrangler is wrangler Sir G! Lol

Im confused or maybe just old. Weren't these super early morning drives a feature of summertime to beat the heat? And hats off to people who wake up before the crack of dawn on a holiday, just to go dune bashing! Even when I was getting paid I would skip morning drives, let alone go voluntarily on one!

Yeah and then you cross two dunes and run out of battery power.

Function over form.

Yes you are correct Bj almost every sheep Ive seen that has been driven hard specially with bigger tyres the front axel is a visibly off with negative camber and skid plate is not the answer, that's for something totally else. What you are talking about is axel reinforcement. If you are planing to off road it pretty hard, do a few jumps here and there then maybe something to think about. Although majority seem to be ok with it or even know they have this issue.

Keep your rage in check. It is mentioned on the rta test for a few years now.