Frederic

As a budget option it is perfectly doable to keep the rear speakers connected to your head-unit IF your headunit is of decent quality. The reason for this is that your front speakers matter the most in providing you a clear crisp detailed stereo image, so most of your budget should go to that. Rear speakers are meant as "infill" to compliment to the overall sound in your car. In sound level you should be aiming at a 70/30 rate in which 70% of the power is made by the front speakers, and 30% is the sound coming from the rear. A Subwoofer is ideally meant to compliment the lack of low frequencies your front and rear speakers can play. Everything below 80hz can be filtered and sent to the subwoofer if the amplifier has a Low Pass Filter (LPF) on board. The front and rear speakers are not made for that anyways. Unfortunately 95% of the sound systems i hear in cars is ALL BASS and nothing else. I stepped away from that whole audio scene long time back after i noticed some car manufacturers (especially German) really stepped up their game with decent speakers, and sometimes built-in subwoofers. They are far from perfect, but with a bit of EQ and some small improvements you will have very decent sound quality in a premium vehicle without the need to tear it all apart and replace.

Ground Zero is indeed well known in Europe. I don't have experience with it as i was a car audio fanatic in the 2000-2006 before the brand was arriving in Europe markets under the Ground Zero Gmbh holding. I've had Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, Kicker, Lanzar, and few others which i had in different installs over the years. Initially i went for Db Drag contests, but later moved to IASCA sound quality contests. Totally agree with the sound insulation works, your speaker will only sound as good as the enclosure it's sitting in, and without proper insulation your high-end speaker will never come alive. Forget about the "Watts" as most companies advertise the PMPO output (Peak Music Power Output) which is TOTALLY irrelevant. The RMS rating is more realistic. Just make sure your amplifier is able to deliver a clean undistorted signal to the speaker, so ideally your RMS output rating of the amp should be higher than the RMS rating of your speaker. You can further fine tune with the sensitivity potmeter to make sure you're not overloading the speakers. Subwoofers are a different subject at all. If you are tight for space, go for a 10inch subwoofer either on its own amplifier, or bridged on your 5 channel amplifier. I am more in favor of using a separate amp for the sub. Try to avoid messing too much with the EQ of your head unit and all these bass-boost functions that only distort the original signal. If you want more bass, get more or bigger subwoofers instead of overloading them with distorted signals. In my little Pajero i have a Lanzar 4channel amp with Lanzar front speakers and JBL GTO oval speakers in the back. Few months back the amplifier (which was already quite old) starting crackling and eventually after trying to repair it i just threw it away and for the moment everything is connected to the Kenwood head unit. I can only dream about having a Subwoofer again as i simply don't have any space in the back due to all the offroad tools and equipment. Picture from my first setup in 2001: Pioneer 4 Channel Amp for the Pioneer speakers, and a RF Punch 60x2 Amp for the RF 12" Punch Series Subwoofer. Good times 😁

@Michael Gazi i noticed you have signed up for two drives on Friday. As per our policy we kindly request every member to sign up for 1 drive only between Sunday and Tuesday. From Wednesday onwards we allow a second booking. Please select which drive you will be attending (morning or afternoon). If you wish to join the second drive you can ask in the drive topic to be added to the waitlist. Thanks

Let's try to clear up the doubts here: The original aim of our RSVP system is to secure a spot (RSVP) for every active member as per their drive level, and to make sure everyone gets a chance for a weekly offroad drive (at least 1). 1) From when the drives are posted on Sunday till Wednesday morning, we kindly ask our members to RSVP only in 1 drive, with the intention of having enough spots available so everyone gets a fair chance to book into a drive. 2) If by any chance you were not able to secure a spot on any of our drives, you should send a message on the drive topic of the drive you wish to join with the message that says: "Can you please add me to the waiting list for my first drive of the weekend ?" 3) If you have a preference to book into another drive next to the one you have RSVPd for, you can do so by sending a message on the drive topic that says: "Can you please add me to the waiting list for my second drive of the weekend". 4) From Wednesday onwards we open the drive RSVP again and allow members to book into a second drive if the RSVP is not yet full. 5) On Thursday the drive lead will look at his RSVP list and can start adding members from the waitlist to fill up his drive or fill in the spots that became empty. Preference will be given to people on the waitlist that have not yet secured a drive for the weekend.

Thanks @Rahimdad Below i have added the 3.0 SOHC 24 Valve engine specs as well. And some detailed explanation on how the MIVEC system works on the 3.8 engines (taken from 3SI.org): The MIVEC system features separate cam profiles for high and low engine speed modes, which translates to higher maximum power and increased usable torque in the widest variety of driving conditions. Under low-rev conditions, MIVEC selects the smaller cam profile, yielding medium lift on the cam profile which provides stable combustion and lower emissions. But when the throttle is opened wide and engine speed reaches 4300 rpm, MIVEC allows the intake valves a longer duration and longer stroke, thus providing maximum and efficient power and torque over a broader range of engine speeds. The enhanced power output of the MIVEC system is achieved by its ability to vary the lift and duration of the intake valves. In the MIVEC system, there are three distinct cam profiles that create two engine modes: a low-speed mode, consisting of low- and mid-lift cam profiles; and a high-speed mode. The low- and mid-lift cams and rocker arms – which drive separate intake valves – are positioned on either side of a centrally located high-lift cam. The high-lift cam is directly connected to a T-shaped lever, which controls valve lift and duration of both intake valves in the high engine-speed mode. At lower engine speeds, the T-shaped levers connected to the high-lift cams reciprocate freely without contacting intake-valve rocker arms, thus allowing the low- and mid-lift cam lobes to control corresponding intake-valve lift and timing. The intake rocker arms contain internal pistons retained by springs in a lowered position at less than 4300 rpm, to avoid contacting the high-lift T-shaped levers. The benefit of the dual-profile low-speed mode is to induce swirl within the cylinder, which helps create stable combustion and improve emissions. The high-speed mode opens the valves longer due to its higher lift. At high engine speeds, the pistons within the rocker arms elevate when MIVEC sends increased oil pressure through an oil control valve. The high-lift cams’ T-shaped levers are then able to directly contact the elevated rocker-arm pistons, overriding the low-speed cam lobes and fully controlling intake-valve lift and duration. The switch occurs at approximately 4300 / 4000 rpm 4G69 / 6G75), when the powertrain control module opens the valves longer to increase the amount of intake airflow, resulting in higher engine output. More precisely, MIVEC switches to the higher cam profile as engine speed increases, and drops back to the lower cam profile as engine speed decreases; the output torque of the low- and high-speed modes overlap for a brief period. This also means that the cam switch operation is transparent to the driver, who is simply rewarded with more power. Under low-rev conditions the low- and mid-lift cam lobes drive the intake valves, providing better fuel economy and lower emissions. But when the throttle is opened wide and engine speed increased, MIVEC gives the valves a longer duration and higher lift, thus providing maximum and efficient power and torque over a very broad range of engine speeds. Despite its technological complexity, the basic workings of the MIVEC engine system can be expressed quite simply: MIVEC alters the cam profiles, tailoring engine performance to suit your driving needs. The MIVEC system was made to compete against the VVT-I (Toyota) and VTEC (Honda systems). The engine on my little blue is a 3.0 12Valve, so performance is even lower. (about 150 Hp at 250 Nm). Have seen an engine curve on the internet a long back but can't seem to find it anymore.

If you decide to change the Tyres, go for something like the Geolandars AT. You won’t regret it.

True. The Unichip is currently the only viable solution for getting rid of the upshift issue in your generation Pajero. A 8mm aluminum bash plate doesn’t weigh a lot. I think 10-15kg at most.

Congrats !!

Well deserved @Abu Muhammad !! Your smile and positive attitude from you and your son are a blessing on our drives !

Congrats and well deserved !!!

Many people have doubts about which engine type of Pajero they should buy, and specifically which will perform best in the desert. Mitsubishi provides the engine performance curves on their brochure but as they are not comparative i wanted to compare the 3.5 6G74 , and 3.8 6G75 engines from the 4th Generation Pajero (2008 till YTD). In above charts you will see the performance of both engines with Output in Kilowatts and Torque in Nm. When you layer these over each other you will get the following: Conclusive results: Output kw or Horsepower: The 3.8 engine performs the best with a max output of 250Hp at 6000rpm, while the 3.5 engine reaches its peak output of 189Hp at 4,750rpm. Up to 4500 rpm both engines react and perform quite similar, which would indicate for driving in the dunes they will perform similar, except for hill climbs where you will need to go beyond that rpm. The 3.8 clearly has the upper hand at that point. Torque: Again the 3.8 shows higher torque values with a max. of 327Nm at an rpm of 2,750rpm, while the 3.5 model reaches 306Nm at 3,750rpm. In Carnity Offroad Club we have seen 3.5 Pajeros performing very well, and while the 3.8 engine has the upper hand when it comes to high-rev hill climbs, they are both capable offroad engines that will do well in the right hands. Purpose of this topic is to consult your engine performance and try to find the "sweet spot" in at which your engine and torque level would be the best for that particular application. From these charts it is quite clear that the 3.5 engine needs to be used more on a lower rpm range and with the proper momentum. Of course these values are theoretical and one will find big differences between each vehicle depending on how well it was maintained, how old the engine is, or if there are issues with the vehicle (spark plugs, injectors, air filter issues). We have plenty of Pajero owners, so let's discuss and learn from each other !

This is because the Calendar events are yet to go online. (tonight at 7PM). They are made and kept in the background until they go live.

Is it possible that the bumper breaks from scooping up sand during a descent ? If that is the case (like pajeros) maybe an aluminum plate underneath the bumper would help to prevent this.

You can join any Newbie drive as per your preference. You’ll find that the drives in Sharjah and Dubai are different terrains which helps in learning faster.

Hi @Danish Mohammad as you have done an Absolute Newbie drive before, please book into one of the Newbie drives that will be posted Sunday evening. This drive is exclusively for first joiners. Thanks !

This drive is organized in full compliance with the COVID19 guidelines. We expect every member that joins this drive to go through below information and and strictly follow these guidelines in order not to jeopardize someone's health, and to ensure we can keep organizing these drives safely. MUST READ AND TOTALLY AGREE: COVID19 Precautions MUST READ AND TOTALLY AGREE: BAN POST Two Way Radio Guidelines Every Offroader brings his own radio, programmed to the frequencies described in below advice topic. We will not share spare radios or program your radio on the drive. If you need assistance in programming the radio, post a topic on the Carnity website with your questions and we will help you out. Make sure your radio is fully charged. It will be your only way of communication while driving. Before buying, please carefully read below advice so you are informed properly on which model / cost / shops... No radio = No drive. It is an essential tool and you should make sure you bring it on every drive and learn/practice how to use it. MUST WATCH: NEWBIE VIDEO BRIEFING Drive Details Level: Newbie and above (All Level) When: 11 Dec 2020, Friday. Meeting time: 06:30 AM (SHARP - Without any exceptions) Meeting Point: Tawi Nazwa Farm - https://goo.gl/maps/rkkmz9FmyFwSb1jc8 Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 8-10 inches of ground clearance. What to bring along: Loads of water, snacks (for yourself), face mask, rubber gloves, enthusiasm and willingness to learn. Approximate finish time: 10:30 AM LIMITED SPOTS AVAILABLE: Limited to 15 cars maximum. RSVP will close on Thursday - 9 AM. 1 Lead Marshal + 2 or 1 Senior Members + 12 Members. If the RSVP is full and you wish to join, please mention your name on the drive thread to add on the waiting list Latecomers will be returned back - without ANY EXCEPTIONS. Members without RSVP will be returned back - without ANY EXCEPTIONS. Members that do not confirm the terms of the COVID requirements will be removed from the RSVP list. Please withdraw your RSVP, if you aren't joining, so your spot can be taken by others. Repeated no-show members after RSVP will have their account suspended for a month. PLEASE RSVP ON THE CALENDAR

If you intend to lift the vehicle in the desert, you'll need a floor Jack, as a bottle jack is not stable enough unless you weld it on a kind of platform. When buying a 2T floorjack go for the JZX brand available in Dragon Mart or the YATO brand from Speedex. You will only be lifting a portion of the car so a 2ton jack is sufficient. A 3ton is of course better and more stable but extremely heavy to take in your car and carry it around in the dunes.

I noticed that 300 Watts LED camping has a label on the controller: max peak output current: 12 Amps. With our formula Power equals Voltage Multiplied by Current this would mean 12x12= 144 Watts which is far off their 300 Watts they put on the box. In reality this light will be somewhere around 100 Watts and that would mean it pulls around 8.3 Amps while on. On a 70ah battery it would take around 8,5 hours to drain it. https://www.gardenmyths.com/led-grow-lights-the-myth-about-watts/

Install an App like Gaiagps or Mytrails that lets you record your track so you can always find your way back to the starting point. Wikiloc is also good and has tracks on it that are uploaded by others.

Drive Report I find it extremely difficult to describe the experience Liwa brings: alternating between awe and respect, to fear for the unknown, exhilaration when we’ve crossed a monstrous dune range with the whole team, but also sadness when we have to exit a team member that was performing well and had his adventure cut short after few hours. As i mentioned in the briefing the same morning; this terrain brings extreme challenges for senior experienced off-roaders, let alone for members who started off-roading only a few months prior. I might have scared you all beforehand but i think after this kind of drive you’ve all come to understand the trepidations i had when we started to climb the first massive dunes and we realized there was no way back. I had a fantastic second lead in @Wrangeld who had a busy day together with his sidekick @Lorenzo Candelpergher . We shoveled and winched and eventually made it all out in time to meet up with the other Carnitees at Moreeb. To be honest: ALL of you massively exceeded my expectations that day, from @Yasas Dharmadasa and @Athula Dharmadada never giving up, @Ranjan Das taking the Discovery to undiscovered places (unfortunately that came with damage), @Lucky sAm @Lorenzo Candelpergher @Malachy McGrogan and @Abu Muhammad navigating their massive beasts through this terrain which deserves massive respect, and @jodha singh shekhawat bringing a new 4x4 he bought that same week. @siddharth maheshwari was in his element and took the terrain without much hassles. We managed to cover 48kms in this unforgiving terrain, which is simply amazing and I am so proud of all of you and thankful for showing up and giving it all you had. At the last climb towards the backside of Moreeb time was running a bit late and suddenly I saw and heard @Asif Hussain his convoy doing the last kms by road which was a brilliant idea and we followed in suit to make sure we had time to meet up with all the other convoys in time at Moreeb. Thank you all so much for joining us and I hope you will strap on the shoes for the next time we are taking on Liwa again ! @Ranjan Das I hope you made it back home safely and plz keep us posted about the Discovery. Take care and see you soon again ! https://www.relive.cc/view/vdvmQE2Njxv

Overnight camping in Sharjah is still not permitted if I remember correctly. In Dubai Al Qudra is your best option but it’s extremely busy nowadays. Have a look at our entry points of the Absolute Newbie drives. These are nice places to enter and you can venture deeper inside but make sure you are with 3 capable 4x4 cars at least and one has experience in handling recoveries in a safe way.

Hi Francois you’ll be in convoy 1: Convoy 1 Setup: LEAD: Asif Hussain - Nissan Xterra (050 699 0411) mobile only for emergency use Members: @Ahab Shamaa @Arda Yagcioglu @SureshVNair @Archibald Jurdi @Sinol @Francois Germishuys@Ashok chaturvedi Support from: @Rahimdad and @Brette Carnity Channel #3: 446.05625 Mhz Meeting Point Convoy 1:https://maps.app.goo.gl/RNbxJpXeC7tUtNsz8

Totally agree. Wattage is being thrown around on the boxes and spec sheets but there is no real rules or regulation so they can put what they want to they want on the box. Your formulas are right. In fact you should look at the lumens but again they will put on the box what they want. My recommendation is to just give it a try and look at the thickness of the wiring. If it’s a very tiny flimsy wire it won’t be made for 400 Watts 😜