Jeep Wrangler JL - Throttle Control and Rev limiter - How to climb

[Abhishek Chikara]

26 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

@Abhishek Chikara Jeep's handle relatively funny when it comes to climbing especially in different dune environments. 

The first thing that could be contributing to this rev limiter doing that would potentially be traction control or electronic stability control (more likely) kicking in when you begin to climb. So, when you're in 4H make sure to press and hold the traction control button for 10 seconds shortly after you'll get a charm sound which means TC and ETC are both off (in my early days this was contributing a lot to my issues in climbs I was just turning off TC)

Now if you have already done that and your engine is still limiting your revs try using Tiptronic manual on all the large climbs you'll want to be in 1st gear until 5000 rpms change to second (remember to let off the throttle anytime you change gears, it makes a large difference when you lay back down on the power) once you begin to drop in second gear switch back to first repeating the same foot-work. (Sometimes in the jeeps the gear change acts a little off if you just lay on the accelerator my take is some software preventing throttle within the change of gears but I'm unsure) 

If you're still facing the same problem, there are two things you can do. Either you're in 4H auto and the computer is learning this more aggressive driving style (high likelihood) so more drives = computer adapts better to your command in the future. or you can try using 4H part-time. (FYI 4 auto is 4 wheels turning based on computer processing where to send the power 4 part-time is 4 wheels spinning all the time) my recommendation is to stay in 4H auto though. 

Overall, I've faced your issue before, and I think you can eliminate that rev cut by using both tiptronic gears and correct foot-work into your climbs to maximize momentum and rev issues. on a side-note practice on flat-ground to figure out which RPM and gear gives you the most initial torque that will also make a world of a difference by changing your gears within the right RPM threshold. 

Keep an eye on coolant temp 110 degrees is overheating 

Thanks @Benjamin for the detailed reply.

Apologies, I should have given some background with my post.

Before starting the drive, I

-          Turn off Traction Control + ESC (pressing it until I hear the sound and it shows it is off on the screen)

-          I always use 4H part time (not 4H Auto) on the desert

-          Put gear box in manual and keep moving between 1^st and 2^nd and occasionally the 3^rd if speed sustains on flatter grounds (have never used D on the desert)

I will try what you are suggesting i.e., take my foot off while changing to 2^nd from 1^st gear since I did not do that under the impression that the computer automatically cuts the power off when the gear changes happen. Throughout the climb, my foot was pressed hard against the pedal at all times (hence, the power kept cutting and reappearing). 

Out of curiosity - do you feather the throttle as well on climbs or do you just lift the feet while changing gears?

Once again, thanks for the detailed reply.

[Benje_Junior]

2 minutes ago, Abhishek Chikara said:

Thanks @Benjamin for the detailed reply.

Apologies, I should have given some background with my post.

Before starting the drive, I

-          Turn off Traction Control + ESC (pressing it until I hear the sound and it shows it is off on the screen)

-          I always use 4H part time (not 4H Auto) on the desert

-          Put gear box in manual and keep moving between 1^st and 2^nd and occasionally the 3^rd if speed sustains on flatter grounds (have never used D on the desert)

I will try what you are suggesting i.e., take my foot off while changing to 2^nd from 1^st gear since I did not do that under the impression that the computer automatically cuts the power off when the gear changes happen. Throughout the climb, my foot was pressed hard against the pedal at all times (hence, the power kept cutting and reappearing). 

Out of curiosity - do you feather the throttle as well on climbs or do you just lift the feet while changing gears?

Once again, thanks for the detailed reply.

No problem! and yes, I do feather the throttle depending on what I'm doing. sometimes feathering my torquey RPM in 1st gear helps me climb at a slower pace (that's better for small climbs or sand walls) typically on high climbs I would feather 2nd gear around 3000-5000 RPM before considering changing to first. 

The computer does automatically cut engine power which is why there is a sudden pause in the throttle after changing gears, the extreme heat does affect the CPU's processing speed. Lift and Coast has helped a bunch within gear changing in my experience though. however, do experiment and find the technique that works best for you 

[Abhishek Chikara]

15 minutes ago, Benjamin said:

No problem! and yes, I do feather the throttle depending on what I'm doing. sometimes feathering my torquey RPM in 1st gear helps me climb at a slower pace (that's better for small climbs or sand walls) typically on high climbs I would feather 2nd gear around 3000-5000 RPM before considering changing to first. 

The computer does automatically cut engine power which is why there is a sudden pause in the throttle after changing gears, the extreme heat does affect the CPU's processing speed. Lift and Coast has helped a bunch within gear changing in my experience though. however, do experiment and find the technique that works best for you 

Great. It is crystal clear now. I will try it the way you’re suggesting the next time! Thanks again and really appreciate your guidance.

[Benje_Junior]

3 minutes ago, Abhishek Chikara said:

Great. It is crystal clear now. I will try it the way you’re suggesting the next time! Thanks again and really appreciate your guidance.

no problem, mate. Anytime. 

[Gaurav]

2 hours ago, Abhishek Chikara said:

Thanks @Benjamin for the detailed reply.

Apologies, I should have given some background with my post.

Before starting the drive, I

-          Turn off Traction Control + ESC (pressing it until I hear the sound and it shows it is off on the screen)

-          I always use 4H part time (not 4H Auto) on the desert

-          Put gear box in manual and keep moving between 1^st and 2^nd and occasionally the 3^rd if speed sustains on flatter grounds (have never used D on the desert)

I will try what you are suggesting i.e., take my foot off while changing to 2^nd from 1^st gear since I did not do that under the impression that the computer automatically cuts the power off when the gear changes happen. Throughout the climb, my foot was pressed hard against the pedal at all times (hence, the power kept cutting and reappearing). 

Out of curiosity - do you feather the throttle as well on climbs or do you just lift the feet while changing gears?

Once again, thanks for the detailed reply.

What you are doing is correct as settings:

• ESC - long press 7 seconds - complete off - Electronic Stability Control Module.
• 4H Part time in proper dunes is the best with 50:50 power split, as 4H Auto is for mild off-road where power shifts from 30:70 split to 10:90 (Front:Rear) based on your speed.

Ideally, you should always drive an auto car in D, as much as you can to stay focused on track and techniques. That's how car automatics learn and improvise to serve you better over long run. Driving all the time in a manual, you will mostly over-run the gears and generate more heat for transmission oil.

Use manual (mostly 1st gear) for long hill climbs.

• Now scenario for long hill climbs differs from Shj and Dxb VS AD. So for moderate size of dunes (Shj and Dxb) 1st gear should be mostly enough.
• For huge dunes like in AD, you should start with 2 second gear:
  • Either continue in 2nd gear, all the way up.
  • OR downshift to 1 when RPM drops below 4K and but before 3K.

 

You can also try that infamous "off-road" button on your Rubicon on such difficult climbs, as some owners reported that optimizes gear response, but the actual truth is yet to be discovered.

[Abhishek Chikara]

27 minutes ago, Gaurav said:

What you are doing is correct as settings:

• ESC - long press 7 seconds - complete off - Electronic Stability Control Module.
• 4H Part time in proper dunes is the best with 50:50 power split, as 4H Auto is for mild off-road where power shifts from 30:70 split to 10:90 (Front:Rear) based on your speed.

Ideally, you should always drive an auto car in D, as much as you can to stay focused on track and techniques. That's how car automatics learn and improvise to serve you better over long run. Driving all the time in a manual, you will mostly over-run the gears and generate more heat for transmission oil.

Use manual (mostly 1st gear) for long hill climbs.

• Now scenario for long hill climbs differs from Shj and Dxb VS AD. So for moderate size of dunes (Shj and Dxb) 1st gear should be mostly enough.
• For huge dunes like in AD, you should start with 2 second gear:
  • Either continue in 2nd gear, all the way up.
  • OR downshift to 1 when RPM drops below 4K and but before 3K.

 

You can also try that infamous "off-road" button on your Rubicon on such difficult climbs, as some owners reported that optimizes gear response, but the actual truth is yet to be discovered.

Thanks for your detailed advice @Gaurav

I have tried the ‘off-road’ button once on dunes – the throttle was snappier and more eager to deliver power at gentle touches + it also held the gears longer and was less keen to downshift.

Also, well noted your comment regarding driving in D and will try to maximize it during the next newbie drive.

I did not do that because I was worried (which I now understand is wrong basis your comment) that I might find myself in a tricky situation requiring power while the transmission was hunting for the right gear or that it would keep changing the gears non stop and over work the transmission.

Lastly, I am overwhelmed by the number of members willing to help out a newbie and truly appreciate your generosity with time and advice.  

[RiadJL]

15 minutes ago, Abhishek Chikara said:

Thanks for your detailed advice @Gaurav

I have tried the ‘off-road’ button once on dunes – the throttle was snappier and more eager to deliver power at gentle touches + it also held the gears longer and was less keen to downshift.

Also, well noted your comment regarding driving in D and will try to maximize it during the next newbie drive.

I did not do that because I was worried (which I now understand is wrong basis your comment) that I might find myself in a tricky situation requiring power while the transmission was hunting for the right gear or that it would keep changing the gears non stop and over work the transmission.

Lastly, I am overwhelmed by the number of members willing to help out a newbie and truly appreciate your generosity with time and advice.  

I do all my drives with offroad+ and gear in D. I switch in and out of manual mode depending on the terrain - if we're going into an area that will call for many climbs in a row or continuous climbing, I swap to manual so I have the required power on hand by shifting down a gear as needed. Most of the time I'll use 2nd gear with 1st gear reserved for steep climbs with small run ups. Losing power by hitting rev limiter on 2nd gear is pretty rare and I think it happens more because I lose traction and the wheels just spin, in these cases I shift up to 3rd and the lower torque helps to grip the sand better and then I shift back down to 2nd if I still need power

There are some who say staying in manual all the time is better but I've found for me at least a mix works and probably puts less strain on the engine. I find Offroad+ quite good and 90% of the time it is in the right gear for the job.

Oh and always 4H part time for me. On the 392 at least it is bad for TC to drive on loose surfaces in 4H Auto

Edited September 16, 2024 by RiadJL

[Abhishek Chikara]

21 minutes ago, RiadJL said:

I do all my drives with offroad+ and gear in D. I switch in and out of manual mode depending on the terrain - if we're going into an area that will call for many climbs in a row or continuous climbing, I swap to manual so I have the required power on hand by shifting down a gear as needed. Most of the time I'll use 2nd gear with 1st gear reserved for steep climbs with small run ups. Losing power by hitting rev limiter on 2nd gear is pretty rare and I think it happens more because I lose traction and the wheels just spin, in these cases I shift up to 3rd and the lower torque helps to grip the sand better and then I shift back down to 2nd if I still need power

There are some who say staying in manual all the time is better but I've found for me at least a mix works and probably puts less strain on the engine. I find Offroad+ quite good and 90% of the time it is in the right gear for the job.

Oh and always 4H part time for me. On the 392 at least it is bad for TC to drive on loose surfaces in 4H Auto

Thank you and duly noted @RiadJL I will use the offroad mode during the next drive and hopefully it'll be much smoother since I am positive I am over stressing the engine presently in 1st gear even when not really required.    

[Anoop Nair]

The above seems to be estimated torque curve for JL in first gear. So it seems it's not productive to go beyond the 5000 rpm point. The best way to is to anticipate the gear and climb and generate enough momentum and keep the pedal modulated (not flooring) to keep the rpm between 4000-5000. 

[DP1011]

@Abhishek Chikara - I have got hardly anything left to whats already highlighted. 

One thing that made a huge difference during my FB+ days - Reducing 2 PSIs.

We had a decent size dune, and I noticed compared to @Benjamin Whose climb was as if its onroad, and letting @Gaurav Have a go with my Jeep and then his suggestion to go down 1-2 PSI, so from 11, I went down to 9, and I felt happy that there was nothing wrong with my machine😂 

AND in addition to this, yes ofcourse triptonic, but with AC off also makes a difference at times for steep dunes!