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Since its been about 2 weeks from the last desert drive, my mind was getting restless. Guess am completely infected by the desert bug, so after discussing with Gaurav, I though of posting a desert drive. idea is to meet up somewhere near Al Hayer and then drive to Nahel. From google maps it looks like an interesting terrain. I have not been to this area, so it would be great if someone can suggest a meeting point . Plan is as follows: When: 29 September 2017 Meeting time: 7:00 AM, convoy will move at 7:15 AM Where: First ADNOC Station while exiting from E66 onto E20 GPS Coordinate: https://goo.gl/maps/ncY7BeVTct12 Level of drive: Fewbie - Expert - Advance - (absolute newbie and newbie as passengers only) Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 10 inches of ground clearance Plan: Early morning drive from Al Hayer to Nahel What to bring along: Morning breakfast - whatever you like with little extra to share, water, liquids, smiles, stories, and enthusiasm. Please RSVP on below calendar

I recently changed it at John's auto repair in Sharjah. It will cost you approx 550 in parts as u need to change belt and a few pulleys. The labor is expensive around 800 and it takes a whole day if u give the car in the morning

It's not dangerous as in you will die if you don't change it. However, if the belt breaks, you could end up with a bigger bill, repairing bent valves etc. The belt might break or it might go 200k with no problems, there's no guarantee. Cost should be 1,500 or less. If you change the belt, it is a good selling point. If you don't, the buyer can use it as a bargaining chip.

Where to get the time belt replaced??? That is the question faced by most Pajero Owners when they hear of the exorbitant quote by the dealership. Here’s my story. I own a 2009, 3.8 L, LWB Pajero. Until 90k,I regularly got all my service done at the dealership, this was because I has a service contract with them . But after that every 5000 -7000, Km I just got Oil and Filter change done at any Adnoc Lube. When I Reached 120K, I sought a quotation from the dealership for Timing Belt replacement along with 100/120K service. The price they quoted was shocking. AED 4,000 for Timing Belt Replacement, and AED 2,000 for the Service. Total AED 6,000. And this was a discounted promotional offer, according to the sales person. Since I felt this was exorbitant I kept searching for an alternative solution, by now the mileage had run up to 133k, Last week during a casual conversation , I was referred to Al Azrag Garage in Quassis, Dubai. This Is Owned by Mr Zaffar , a hardcore off-road enthusiast , and Crew and Marshal of Emarat 4X4. I am extremely happy with their work, at a fraction of what the stealership charges , and would recommend them to any Pajero owner. They kept the car overnight, and I could supervise the work most of the time. Before I went there, I did a little home work and made out a list of things which I wanted replaced, this I got from the service manual, table for things to replace at 100K and 120K. Also the specification of the Parts/Fluids to replace from the User manual. For the 3.8 liter 2006 model LWB Pajero ITEM SPECS 1 ENGINE TIMING BELT MD 358549 1 X 190= 190AED 2 SPARK PLUGS IRRIDIUM TIPPED IFR6B-K 6 X 50 = 300AED 3 AIR CLEANER ELEMENT/FILTER Was inspected and did not need replacement 4 ENGINE COOLANT SUPER LONG LIFE 10.5 LITERS 5 BRAKE FLUID DOT 3 OR DOT 4 Was Not Replaced 6 CLUTCH FLUID DOT 3 OR DOT 4 Was Not Replaced 7 FUEL FILTER MR 529135 1 X 95 = 95 AED 8 TRANSFER GEAR OIL Hypoid GL-3 SAE 75W-85 2.8 LITERS 9 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL FRONT / REAR Hypoid GL-5 SAE 90 1.15 FRONT / 1.64 REAR 10 AIR PURIFIER FILTER IN CABIN Was Not replaced 11 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID ATF SPIII 9.7 LITERS (5 LX 2) 230 AED 12 ENGINE OIL ADNOC Voyager Silver 10W 40 , 5 Liters 13 ENGINE OIL FILTER MZ 690150 1 X 20 = 20 AED All Parts and Fluids were bought from Authorised Original Parts shops, like (DIVYA in Sharjah or Dubai), but not from the dealership. DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL Hypoid GL-5 SAE 90 was brought from Eppco Petrol Pump. Enoc makes this gear oil in the brand name “zenon”. 4 liter can for AED 72. Note I couldn’t find “ TRANSFER GEAR OIL Hypoid GL-3 SAE 75W-85 as specified in the manual ” so I replaced it with DIFFERENTIAL GEAR OIL Hypoid GL-5 SAE 90. This is your call, You could try to get this from the dealership. Anyway car works fine, Gears shift well , No problems. Little research as to what these numbers and Letters refer to. Example :Hypoid GL-3 SAE 75W-85 Hypoid is an abbreviation of hypocycloidal gears and relates to the geometry of the crown wheel and pinion arrangement usually on rear wheel drive cars and vans. The pinion is usually highly off-set to reduce propshaft intrusion into the passenger compartment. API stands for American Petroleum Industry and GL stands for Gear Lubricant, see below for their definitions: • API GL-1 Straight mineral oil. • API GL-2 Mild EP for worm gear oils. • API GL-3 Mild EP for spur and spiral bevel gears in axles and transmissions. Contain up to 2.7% anti-wear additives • API GL-4 Medium EP, moderate severity hypoid gears, manual gearboxes. Contain up to 4.0% effective anti-scuffing additives • API GL-5 High EP, all hypoid axles, some manual gearboxes. contain up to 6.5% effective anti-scuffing additives • API GL-6 Extra high EP, now obsolete. EP means extreme pressure and refers to the additive used in gear oils. This additive is designed to stop metal-to-metal contact taking place between transmission components. SAE stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers.The SAE Viscosity grade are only a measure for the viscosity of the lubricant oils and do not give any statement about the quality and compounds of the motor and gear oilSingle Grade oils are designed for only one SAE field, Multigrade Oils contain several SAE fields. Summery. Its time we moved away from dealerships and their cutthroat pricing. Garages Like Al Azrag ( GPS Coordinates N 25.28902, E055.40527 )are a ray of hope for those of you who want quality work but do not want to get robbed in the bargain. Definitely recommended.

Air filter, plugs and pads should be changed on condition, not age. Different people have different driving styles therefore the parts wear differently.

My pictures are uploaded in the gallery: https://carnity.com/gallery/category/43-jabal-jais-21-sep-2017/ Awaiting to see pics from Rahimdad, Basit and Saleem

Awesome initiative and excellent choice of area @skumar83 Count me and Rahim bhai in with full support. I am so impressed to see the way you have compiled the whole drive thread for the first time, is absolutely perfect. Keep it up. Finally, we can taste some new style of driving this Friday. I am so excited that I can't wait for this one, especially after driving behind you and Basel in last drive for the first time.

Hello there. Welcome to the community! Feel free to share your knowledge and stories! Kudos

This is the set of dunes that I am proposing

Hi Sertac. Welcome to Carnity

It is actually useful and also snake oil to be very honest. It is useful in really really really bad super bad engine condition, stalled in scrap for long time and when installed make lot of spluttering and clanking on first run. I used these products two bottle in half tank - 4 times the dosage and felt some noticeable difference. That's it. I also used these prodcuts in my other car second, third and fourth time and never felt a thing. So it cleans is true, but use every certain kms is a bullshit to make profit thats why every petrol station has to force this suggestive sell. You can't simply clean further whatever is already cleaned.

i think its effect is inside the combustion part of the cylinder { upper part) and the lubricant oil shall be on the cylinder wall under the compression rings so the lubrication oil still doing its job while using fuel system treatments.

Money spinner for service stations IMO. The fact that it says on the bottle to use it on a mileage as small 4K says it all. They want you to buy loads of it. Garage I used to work in sold it. I gave a few bottles to friends to try as an experiment and had no positive results that would make me want to pay for and put it in my own car. The only real way to clean injectors is to remove them and clean them manually. As for cleaning valves and pistons, you can try terraclean or snowfoam but using plain tap water will have the same results at zero cost. Look on YouTube, there's a few videos on decarbonising your engine with water. There was a thread on here about it a while ago too. If you want your valves to really look like new, you need walnut blasting. I don't know anyone here who does it.

Here is the video guys