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What are the worst design flaws you have seen? Here are a few, Nissan X terra. Factory roof rack, brilliant. Factory sunroof, brilliant. Not being able to use the sunroof because the roof rack is in the way? What the heck? Mercedes biodegradable wiring loom. Great idea in theory, saves all that plastic from going to landfill. In practice, hecking stupid idea. What if you like your old car and want to keep it but every time you go for a drive something short circuits? Lifetime fluids. Sure, fantastic. It's not like the metal parts rubbing together in your gearbox will ever create swarf that will eventually jam up the valve block. Physics eh? What did that Newton guy know anyway.

I used to ride bikes and whilst it’s a lot of fun, you constantly need to watch your ass. If I had a dirham for every time someone said sorry mate I didn’t see you, I could leave dubai for good.

For a more permanent solution, you're going to have to attach the positive to the battery clamp with an eye terminal or look for a space in the under bonnet fuse box to attach it to, again with an eye terminal. The interior fuse box might not be able to supply the power required. You can attach the negative to anywhere on the body. Just sand the paint off where you're attaching it to so you get a good connection but try to keep the wire as short as possible. I.e. if the inverter is in the boot, look for a bolt in the boot attached to the body that you can connect it to. The whole car body is one big negative earth terminal. The purpose of the main power fuse isn't to protect the inverter, it has its own fuse to protect itself. It's in case the power wire breaks or rubs through and touches the body of the car creating a short circuit. A couple of hundred amps in a short circuit condition is enough to melt the plastic wire coating and start a fire in a few seconds. The fuse should be as close as possible to the power source to minimize the length of live cable in the event that something happens. If you want to know the true wattage of your inverter, you can introduce a load to the output with an inductance coil. I usually use the primary coil of a big transformer whilst making sure the wires from the secondary coil are isolated to avoid sparks etc. You can then measure the output in amps by attaching a clamp meter to either the positive or the negative going to the coil (not around both wires). You can then work out the true power. W=AV where W is watts, A is amps and V is voltage so just multiply amps by volts and you have the wattage. In all honesty though, if the inverter says 1000 watts, even if it can only produce 500 watts, it's more than enough. A PS4 only needs 165 watts to run and a full size LCD TV is around the same so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I have a similar invertor and don't go by the word what it says for 1000W. Before doing any major exercise I suggest to run inverter with battery and power up the PlayStation and display to see if this metal box is actually supplying required wattage. Additional fuse what Barry suggested is for wire installation and it's a good practice to add the fuse in case some surge happen so it won't fry your devices or melt wire.

In an ideal world for awesome clarity and crisp output, everything should route through AMP. You should have 4 channel decent AMP for 4 speakers and 2 Channel AMP for the woofer. Or you can get powerful 4 channel AMP and use two channel for 4 speakers by clubbing front left + rear left as one set and so on for right side and use other 2 channel for the woofer. Or you can get 6 channel AMP but the price will be a lot more than having two AMP. Secondly in any sound system built, the head unit is the main jewel in the crown. Do not compromise on that, I was having 3 years old Sony xplod single 52W RMS unit that I replaced with Pioneer 100W RMS and just by replacing the head unit, the whole sound scene changed dramatically. While doing my system some of the geniuses here advise me too to go for the used component, but after researching the main issue I stopped. Expensive cars factory unit run with a lot of support at AMP and controller level and design with that size and sound space inside that car, so unless you rip every sound module from the donor car and place it exactly same in your car you won't' enjoy, as you will lose the secret recipe of "config". I have gone to my friend's place to listen to his Harman Kardon speaker and realize they sound too bad as just speaker alone from scrap can't do the full justice. They perform well only at a certain level and moment you want to crank up the volume, you realize there is something wrong. Crutchfield has tons of good information and build list, that I strongly suggest to use and educate from. IMHO go for new one so that you can size everything perfectly for your car.

https://dubai.dubizzle.com/classified/electronics/car-electronics/car-audio-systems/2018/1/30/diamond-audio-d7152-2/?back=L2NsYXNzaWZpZWQvZWxlY3Ryb25pY3MvY2FyLWVsZWN0cm9uaWNzLz9wcmljZV9fZ3RlPSZwcmljZV9fbHRlPSZrZXl3b3Jkcz1hbXBsaWZpZXImaXNfYmFzaWNfc2VhcmNoX3dpZGdldD0wJmlzX3NlYXJjaD0xJnBsYWNlc19faWRfX2luPS0tJmFkZGVkX19ndGU9JmFnZV9fbHRlPSZjb25kaXRpb25fX2d0ZT0mdXNhZ2VfX2x0ZT0%3D&pos=8 Very nice amp. I know the guy who's selling it as i bought other equipment from him. He's a collector/hobby/audio fanatic and has lots of vintage and high-end equipment.

Hey, The component speakers will indeed have their own filter on board, but the lowest frequencies are anyway sent to the door speakers. A high pass crossover on your Amp will allow you to filter out everything below 80hertz so your subwoofer can take these on instead of the 5.25" front speakers. Its not a must but more a "nice to have" on your Amp. Pertaining the secondhand stuff; you might find some on dubizzle if you keep a close eye on it, but be careful when buying secondhand speakers: it's difficult to test them when you buy them, and they might have been abused heavily. Check on souq for deals and good prices. I have bad experiences with sharjah and find it more convenient to get everything delivered.

I would add the rear bumper scooper of the Pajero, especially on a vehicle that can be used for offroading. It's like the rear of the car has it's own in-built shovel.

Thanks everyone for all your inputs. @Frederic Nuyttens, I am going to take up your suggestion of the system and will shortly post it as well. The component speakers come with their own crossovers which helps filter for frequency between the tweeter and the woofer. Are you suggesting that the amp should have an additional crossover to filter between the front and rear speakers? Also, if I am connecting rear speakers directly to the head unit which in my case might be underpowered (22W RMS), will it be ok or should I get a 4 channel amp and connect the rear speakers to the amp. @Gaurav, I am planning to put a subwoofer as I have a good compartment in the rear where it can be placed without reducing any storage space. Thanks for the input on the pricing, which comes to my final question, is there any place or shop where we can get good used equipment as branded audio systems are generally quite rugged and have quite a decent life, if handled well. I feel all the more excited, after getting your inputs, to start working on this mini project. Thanks guys !!

Thanks for sharing your views Vinod and Gaurav bhai, it's always good to see things from a different point of view.

Awesome input from @Frederic Nuyttens, I wish I knew you in person while setting up my system. Your explanation and pain points remind me of my journey and I'm sure @Barry can relate to it as well. Keep going, buddy. @skumar83 THE MOST important decision before anything you need to make is the choice of setup with or without woofer so that can size things accordingly. Previous explanation of Fredrick goes for the system with woofer, so if you go with that build and minus woofer, you will not enjoy. I was very clear from the beginning that I can't afford a woofer space in my dinky boot that is already loaded with tons of off-road equipment and that's why I went for the real powerful rear speaker that deliver door-shattering bass if you turn up the bass remote from AMP (remote is place next to driver). Finding the head unit that delivers 100 RMS is must and also it's pain in entry-level setup. Pioneer only has one system that delivers 100 RMS x 4 channel DEH-X4850FD. Just to give you an idea, entry-level setup costs from 2000 - 3000 AED, Pro level cost in the range of 5k - 6k with likes of Focal, JBL, Harman Kardon etc. Competition level cost in range 10K - Sky is the limit.

Hi there, It goes without saying that your car's alternator, battery, and wiring should be in good and working condition, with or without installing additional equipment. Basically, you will need to run another power wire straight from your battery's + towards your amp(s). Choosing the right size of cable is based on how powerful your amps are: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1TnffuYRpSC/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html I'm not good with gauge sizes, i used 10mm2 cable if i'm not mistaken (7 AWG). You can buy the complete cable sets on s o u q or downtown which will contain the following: 1) Power Cable (red) with fuse and fuse holder: Avoid drilling holes in your firewall (metal wall between your engine bay and the inside of your car). Just look at which location the cabling from your engine bay goes towards the dashboard. This will normally pass through some kind of rubber. Through this rubber you should be able to pinch a small hole and then put your power cable through it. Now guide your power cable to the back of the car where your amp will be located. You'll need to remove the upholstery/carpets/sidepanels and look for the shortest way possible. 2) (Ground cable) Black: This will be a short piece of black cable of the same thickness as your power cable. Connect this one to a GOOD grounded chassis point nearest to your amp. with GOOD ground i mean it has to be a bolt going into the metal frame of your car. Use an ohm meter to be sure that the grounding is actually in touch with the frame. In many cars, the bolts that are used to mount the seat-belts to your car frame are good for this. If nothing is available then you could drill a hole in the metal panel, remove the paint, and bolt it to the frame. But use this as last resort to avoid corrosion or hitting something which you did not intend to hit like your gas tank. 3) RCA Cable: This is the cable that sends the audio signal from your head-unit to the amp. DO NOT put this wire together with your power cable in the same cable trunking. In some cases it will result in humming or noise when you accelerate the car. Just try to find a different route. Normally the power cable goes through the left side of the car (the side where your battery is), while the speaker cable and signal cables go through the right side. 4) Remote Cable: This is a simple wire that you'll need to connect to the headunit's "remote" connector. It sends 12 Volts to the amplifier to switch it on when the headunit is switched on. Most RCA signal cables have a small third extra wire along the core that you can use, but any wire (or some extra speaker wire) will do. 5) Speaker Wire: Regular audio speaker wire 2,5mm2 will do to cable the speakers all the way up to the amp. You can choose to tap into them through the original connector behind the head-unit, or you can pull new cables all the way up to the speaker itself (not so easy to do with front speakers as you'll need to pass through the original rubber door cabling). You'll need the following equipment: -Soldering iron (if you decide to solder instead of using crimping lugs). I prefer soldering any time. -Crimping lugs (forks, male and female). -Electrical tape. -Multimeter. To identify which speaker is which in your cabling, you can use a 1.5 AA volt battery . Just hold the speaker wire on the + and - for a second and the popping sound will get you to identify which speaker is which. Try to take into account the correct + and - connections of your speakers. If wired incorrectly it will result in a phase cancellation fault which you cannot hear easily, but results in far less bass coming through the speaker because one speaker moves outwards while the other moves inwards during pumping out sound, resulting in a cancellation. If you are not sure which is the + or -, just wire up everything and when you play a song with some good bass, try shifting the balance from L to R on your head-unit. You will notice that suddenly you will have more bass out of 1 speaker instead of 2. That means your + and - are reversed . Most-probably you WILL break some of these side-panel plastic thingys that pop into the holes and keep your doorpanels and sidepanels in their place. The older the car, the more likelier because they are detoriorated and will break off very easily. But that's a small pain compared with the joy of having a good sound system.

Thanks @Gaurav for the advice and @Frederic Nuyttens for the detailed explanation. It has given me some idea from where I need to get started. I have one more question, while upgrading the system, do I need to check the capability of the existing car electric system, like alternators, electrical wires, etc I think I should be able to install bigger speakers at the front, only might have to drill additional holes. To your question on whether I would like to do it on my own or from outside, I prefer to do it myself as I have started enjoying working on the car and it will help if I need to tweak things later. I am sure that I will be making quite a few mistakes along the way, so let's see how it goes. Thanks!!

Hi, The 4x50 Watts on your head-unit are in reality hardly 4x22 Watts RMS. Upgrading with an amp will surely result in a big improvement in terms of sound quality. The fact that your original speaker size is a bit on the small side, will not result in a lot of power on the low frequencies. So adding a subwoofer will come in handy. Unless you are able to put bigger speakers in all your doors, then you might be happy to go without a subwoofer. Full range speakers for your doors are fine. Better results will be achieved with component speakers on the front. Mainly you want to be able to point to separate tweeter directly towards yourself, which is not possible if the tweeter is in your door. Dampening the noise is surely possible. We used to put asphalt bitumen on the insides of the doors Pertaining your question on the wattage: - For door-speakers: 50W RMS onwards is more than loud enough. Many speaker brands use wattages like max or PMPO (peak music power output) which are very very overrated and unrealistic. If you go for the big brands, just look at the RMS rating because this is at least a realistic value. - For subwoofers: Anything from 200W RMS up to a few thousands of W RMS is possible a good starter set is a 12" subwoofer for 200W RMS. Take into account the space it will need in the back of your car. If you want to go offroading and camping, it becomes a bit of a hassle imho. You can put plugs on it so it becomes removable, but also comes with some limitations. - For Amplifiers: Always make sure that your amp can deliver/match the RMS wattage of your speakers. There are many options available: 4 channel amps, 2 channel amps, amps which can be bridged, amps with onboard crossovers, etc.. etc... Chronologically in your case i would take the following route: 1) Look for a good component front speaker set in either the original size that fits, or if possible go for a bigger size. Pioneer, Sony, JBL are good entry level brands. Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Polk Audio, JL Audio, Focal, Hertz, are more high-end but will set you back a decent buck and are more difficult to find here. 2) Buy a decent 2 channel amp that can power the front speakers. Again Sony, Pioneer, JBL, Alpine, etc will give a good bang for the bucks. If possible go for an amp that has built-in crossovers. You can enable the highpass filter for your front speaker so you can make sure they only play stuff above 80hz. It will result in less rattling in your doors, and anything under 80 hertz will be for your sub anyway 3) Rear speakers: Less important imho. Buy some entry level ones and keep them on the headunit amp. 4) Subwoofer: 10 to 12" is the most chosen option due to power vs size. You can buy an additional amp to power it (2 channel amp that is bridged), or go for these active sub tubes with built-in amp. I found a shop on SZ that sells Ground Zero stuff. Unfortunately they charge a bit too much like most shops here. You didn't mention if you want to do this by yourselves or not. It is a nice hobby and if you have some basic knowledge about electricity and removing door panels, it is rather easy to do by yourselves. I made it my hobby many years back and the joy of installing, listening, and fine-tuning it is much higher than getting everything installed by a pro. But that is your choice of course and installing cost here in UAE is not that high. Good luck !

The whole idea for creating carnity club is to group carnity 15,000 members based on their interest and liking. We believe, this way members can benefit more based on their interest and enthusiasm. They can join the club that suit their taste and the best part is that they can join any number of clubs, unlike in real world and still stay together. This give members more options to get involved in different conversations, meet-ups, drives, events and new niche specific discussions and causes. In last decade UAE off-road circuit has been broken into multiple splinter clubs and has taken away the real off-road spirit from the weekend goers. Due to these, all my friends and acquaintances has been lost behind different clubs and their fences. Now it's a chance to unite those clubs, by preserving their individual identity and yet bringing them closer to celebrate the true spirit of off-road in the UAE. If anyone don't like Nizwa drive from XXXXXX 4x4 then they can join in Sweihan drive from YYYYY 4x4 without any hard feeling and still enjoy the weekend in desert with his friends. By staying together members can negotiate better bulk deals for hundreds of members than for 10's and 20's. Clubs can join forces for the bigger causes to support national drives, events and charities. All members will be part of huge SOS group for off-road recovery and assistance. Individual members can gain community reputation and test off-road freebies. Last but not least, all clubs drives, events and synergies will be preserved in gallery section for years to come and refer back to prove their metal and cherish the good moments with the next generation.