treks

Hi ging, I'd like to help you out with this problem, but I need more information, so can you answer these questions? Does the engine crank at normal speed?Do you see any warning lights on the dashboard when it won't start?Did you replace the battery recently?Do you have a smart key, and when last did you replace the battery in the key?Does the problem only happen when the car was parked in the sun?Does the car run normally once it does start?Does it run normally all of the time?Does the idling fluctuate, or does it idle unevenly?Has the fuel consumption changed at all- does it now use more fuel than before?Does it take three or four attempts to start it when it won't start, and do you smell fuel when it does not want to start?How long do you crank the engine for when you try to start it?There are more questions, but these should do for now.

Hi Siddiq, "The RPM is 900 on Neutral and 200-300 when shift to D." This is from your original post, so does the engine still idle at only 300 RPM when it is cold? You say that it idles at 500-800 (Without AC) when it is warm, so what we need to do is figure out what kind of vibration we are talking about, since 500 RPM is fast enough to make a V6 engine idle relatively smoothly. If by "vibration" you mean it idles roughly or unevenly, we need to figure out why. What happens when you switch on the AC when the engine is warm and you put the transmission in D? Does the idle RPM drop to below 500 RPM? Can you perhaps post a good quality video of the engine when it vibrates, so I can see for myself what is happening? If you post a video, please include a sound clip of the engine at idle as well.

Hi Guys, Just to clarify- If the timing belt was the problem, in that the valve timing is incorrect, the engine would run rough the whole time. It would not run well in N and then start running rough when the car is put into gear. Incorrect valve timing stays incorect until someone fixes it- it does not cause problems that come and go.

Hi Siddiq, The problem you are having with your Pajero has nothing to with any gasket. The low idling speed that causes the vibration happens because the step-up actuator does not work. The device works on the trottle, and it increases the idling speed when you put a vehicle in gear. When you put an automatic vehicle in gear, the transmission engages, which reduces the idling speed due to the drag of the transmission, so the transmission sends a signal to the step-up actuator to say that it is now in gear, and it must increase the idling speed to counter-act the drag the transmision places on the engine. When you drive at higher speeds, the engine overcomes the drag of the transmission, which is why you don't notice the vibration at high engine speeds. Remember that N and P is not the same thing, because different parts of the transmission is disengaged in N and P. When the transmission is in P, the fluid in the transmission follows a different route through the transmission that causes less drag than when the transmission is in N, so you will notice a difference in how the engine idles when it is cold, and in P. The step-up actuator also works on a signal from the AC, so it is possible that the circuit from the transmission to the actuator does not work, while the circuit from the AC compressor might work, which is why you don't get the slow idling and vibration when you turn on the AC. I suggest that you take the vehicle for a full OBD II diagnostic check to confirm that the circuit from the transmission to the step-up actuator is defective. It is very difficult to test this circuit yourself, since you don't know what the electrical values on the testing points should be. There might be some power in the circuit, but a high resistance because of bad connections, or a defective switch, so have this circuit checked out with a diagnostic computer.

Hi Robert, The other posters to your thread make some good points, but you should consider some technical aspects as well. While comfort is important, consider the following points. 1.) You must have a low range gear set. Loose desert sand is death to vehicles that cannot use the lower wheel speeds and higher torque that come with low range. 2.) Look for vehicles with diff locks. A lockable diff prevents whhel spin should one wheel lose traction, which can get you stuck in seconds. Better still, lok for a vehicle with lockable front and rear diffs. 3.) Avoid vehicles with viscous couplings in the drive-line. These couplings use a fluid to transfer power, and they simply cannot cope with the demands of off-road driving. 4.) Look for a vehicle on which you can disable the ABS when you need to. Because of the way ABS works, you could end up not having functional brakes on loose surfaces. The ABS will release the brake pressure on locking wheels, and because the wheels will continue to lock up, the ABS will continue to release the brakes. In practice, this means that stopping distances can double, or even triple on lose surfaces, by which time you may have driven over a cliff already. 5.) Look for a vehicle with a low centre of gravity to avoid roll overs if you are driving along the edge of a dune. In general, the higher the vehicle is, the more likely it is to roll over on a side slope. 6.) Avoid vehicles with automatic transmission, because you need the mechanical link between the engine and the drive axles that a manual gives you, especially when going down sand dunes with loose surfaces. The only way to negotiate this kind of obstacle is to use engine braking to keep the vehicle under control. You cannot use the brakes because you will almost certainly lose control. Automatic transmissions do not have engine braking capabilites. 7.) Look for a vehicle on which you can fit skid plates under the engine, transmission, and axles to prevent damage to these components when you cross rocks and other obstacles. On some vehicles it is imossible to fit skid plates, so bear this in mind. 8.) Look for a diesel, since diesels have most of their torque available at low engine speeds. Gasoline engines often have the same amount of torque, but the fact that you have to maintain high engine speeds to have the torque available uses a lot of fuel, and places huge stresses on the engine. Moreover, you get further with a gallon of diesel than you do with a gallon of gasoline. 9.) Avoid vehicles with traction control that is based on the ABS brake system. These systems only work for about 30 seconds or so before their stored energy runs out. Look for a vehicle with a traction control system that works with torque distribution, which is a system that locks the diffs temporarily when individual wheels lose traction and start spinning. 10) Avoid SUV's altogether. Their unibody design does not allow for the amount of flex required to keep all the wheels on the ground when you are crossing difficult terrain. The step-ladder chassis construction of trucks are able to flex to an amazing extent, which goes a long way toward keeping the wheels on the ground. I hope that helps, but offroad driving is inherently dangerous, so get the vehicle that is best suited to the task.

Hi Gaurav, I'm afraid that I pushed the wrong button here, hence the empty quotes. Sorry about that. However, high hydro-carbon counts are a feature of older engines, and there will come a point at which there is nothing you can do to pass and emissions test as the tests are getting more stringent as time passes. In the meantime though, bear the following in mind when using older cars, like your Pajero. 1.) Hydro-carbon counts depend on the quality of the combustion process. Thus, with cars that are not used often, the lubricating film on the cylinder walls eveporate, which means that the rings are not able to seal properly, at least until a new lubricating film has formed, which can take a few hundred kms. In practice, this means that some oil escapes past the rings, to be combusted with the air/fuel mixture.The best remedy is to use the car more often, and to use the best quality oil available. 2.) On older engines, it is quite possible for oil to leak into the cylinders past the valve-stem seals when it is not used for some time. You don't need much oil in the cylinders to raise HC counts-just a few micro-drops is enough, and it can take several hunderd kms for this oil to burn off. If this is the case, you might notice some blue/white smoke when you start the Pajero, but the amount of oil in the cylinders might be so small that you may not actually see the smoke. It might be worth your while to have the cylinder heads removed to replace the valve guides, and valve-stem seals. The other option is to drive the vehicle more often to prevent oil build-up in the cylinders due to leaking valve stem seals. 3.) Keep the air filter clean to maximise airflow. 4.) Replace the crankcase ventilation valve to enable the engine ventilation system to function properly. Clogged crankcase ventilation valves is the leading cause why cars of all makes fail emissions tests all over the world. 5.) Replace the plug wires to ensure you get a proper spark to the spark plugs. Plug wires deteriorate over time, and a weak spark equals poor combustion, which means high HC counts. 6.) Replace the sparkplugs with the best available, as opposed to the most you are willing to pay for spark plugs. Plugs with platinum or irridium electrodes are the best, and they last forever. 7.) Have the injectors tested to check their spray pattern. Poor atomisation of the fuel causes poor combustion, and high HC counts. 8.) Have the injector pulse-width checked. The pulse width is the amount of time the injector stays open to inject fuel, and it happens sometimes that injectors get sticky, which is when they inject more fuel than they should, and especially when the engine is cold. 9.) Have a compression test done. Compression on all cylinders should be within 5-, 7% of the values for a new engine, and all cylinders should be within 3-, to 4% of each other. I hope that helps.