desertdude

Thanks @Barry yes I was talking about the Land Rover Discovery and not the Range Rover, and no rust really isn't an issue here. Also that pic posted is of a Series II Discovery. I was specific about a Series I. I guess to a lot of people they look the same.

But unfortunately when compared to the other two options the Sheep is a better option. Personally I would go for Discovery Series I in that price range but I know people dont like them and have all sorts of mythical stories and misconceptions about them.

Well its not rocket science, simple liquid crystals being controlled by a current. Everything get cheaper, Smart Phones, Flat Screen TVs etc etc, once cost a small fortune and now almost disposable, this will also come down if it ever gets popular enough and from what I've seen and know, this actually doesn't tint the glass like your regular window tints, but turns it opaque like sandblasted glass with adjustable degrees and even on a "low" setting if thats the correct term, its not tinted but foggy like on your bathroom mirror after a hot shower. Don't see if getting popular with cars even if cheap, no one likes to drive around with blurry and foggy windows, and most probably RTA will sooner or later will also have something to say about it, because it is potentially dangerous because it impedes vision For luxury home owners this could be the thing, but if a car costs 8k. I fret to think about the cost of apts with wall to wall, floor to ceiling glass.

Too wild for Aston, don't think it will ever reach production.

Dayum Son!!!! 6 to 8K !!!. I've owned cars which cost less than that ! Thanks but no thanks, We'll just wait for the Chinese to catch up, if they havent already and come up with a 50dh version

"Go away soon on its own" if I had a dhirham for everytime I heard that. This translates to I fcuked up somewhere along the line while installing the engine, broke or didn't plug in some sensor or connector and now I am least bothered to recheck everything so please pay me and bugger off

Personally not a fam of Pajeros at all. Nothing wrong with thenm but just feel bland with no character or soul. As for the Montero and Fortuner I would rather suggest buy the original pick up variants The Hilux and Mitsu L200. Even with all the refinement still feel like you are driving a pickup! Atleast with the pickups you wont be fooling yourself you are not in a pretend SUV

They got all makes.

For 300 you can get a entire new windshield fitted in sharjah, why bother with a 200dh repair

What the kids were dancing on the dash board? I can see seats ans carpets getting destroyed but dashboard? Anyways Ive used Ultimate Shine in Al Qouz before and they pretty cheap and best part is you drop the car early morning and by late evening its ready to pickup. Think it was 199 or 299 cant remeber for inside, outside, engine bay etc etc

Go down to Shj industrial area and scan BMW road and look for a Volvo sign on any shop. They will have it. To make ones life easier I use google street view for such tasks. Virtually drive down BMW road in shj and look for the Volvo logo on any shop. You can also read the number off the sign board call them and ask for avialibilty and price

All rounder AND better for the desert is an oxymoron. This implies both cars are good all rounder but which one is better for the desert. The previous generation of Pathfinders were good allrounders, pretty good in the desert and good on the road specially if you have a family or value cargo space. I had a friend who bought one new and used it as his daily driver and weekend warriror all the way up tp 300k kms without any real issues. Even with its very poor visibility all round the FJ is more geared towards off road use. Rear seats and entry is pathetic so not a good family ride. I would suggest to look for a 2door VX 6 cyl Prado instead of the FJ a much better car and off road performer. A FJ is basically a LWB 4dr prado underneath with a FJ body on top anyways. P.S: Pathfinder talked about here is not to be confused with the current generation of gay egg shaped FWD ugly as fek Pathfinder

With a P0742 DTC it makes sense the engine ECU is talking to the tranny ECU if it has one ans not letting it upshift to protect the drive train from.damage as the speed difference between the vehicle and transmission is greater than the set tolerance limit.And vehicle speed is detected by you guessed it vehicle speed sensor usually near the tranny output shaft. So a faulty speed sensor could trigger this. The delayed start is due to the cam sensor as it telles the ECU where the engine is in its cycle TDC BTDC etc efc so it can control the injectors and spark plugs. With a intermittent working sensor this would cause starting problems. Its good advice to have the codes cleared to see if it helps. If the engibe light comes back on and so do the symptoms 1st check the for loose connections on both the sensors. A bump or repeated vibration could have set them loose. Open clean the connectors and try clearing the codes again ( this is where your own diagnostic equipment or at the very least an OBD reader come in handy) if not. Replace both the vehicle speed and cam position sensor and most probably this should take care of your problem. Cheers

What! Toyotas are suppose to be indestructible and last forever! /sarcasm off Anyways changing the dashboard is no easy task, it'll probably cost you 50%of what your car is worth currently. Just get one of those dashmats made in Satwa and Ghusais.

Yeah pretty much what everybody else said, people are not used to revving their motors beyond 3-4k.If that. This becomes very evident when newbies hit the desert for the very first time and are scared to mash the pedal to the floor and upshift too early, losing momentum and getting stuck

Or using diesel oil in old push rod motors, that seem to piss off a lot of people too!

Interesting way to plug your company but yeah dont see it catching on until prices drop and it becomes widely available.Even then its still bit of a gimmick TBH And in reality almost no one was following the 30% rule anyways. I had my land cruiser tinted 70% way back in 2003 and drove it for many years without any issues.

Yes just like when I drove my two Land Cruisers for around 10 years and almost spent every day off and any free time I had in the workshop fixing sonething or the other. Whether it was when my fuel tank fell off, my fuel pump died, front and rear diffs got knackered, Auto transmission one day decided not to work, my transfer case said to hell with you Im going to blow up and leak oil all over the place, my radiator stopped cooperating, my condensor didnt want to cool anymore, then my evaporator also decided to get all gunked up. My indicatiors decided they didnt want to stay attached to the body and kept falling off, my steering rack didnt want to keep any of iit oil and also didnt want to stay fixed in placed. My rack end spared my life by not failing during a highway run and only failed when I slowed down veering my car off the road and into a ditch punching right through my alloy wheel leaving a big hole in it and both my tyres facing different directions. The wiring to the knock sensors gave up. And the list goes on and on and on and on. Because these are just thing off the top of my head and its been a while, And these were just the memorable events I remember clearly. So sure buy a LC and enjoy the reliability Point Im trying to make is IMO there is no such thing as a reliable car. Its up to the owner how well he maintains and looks after his ride, taking preemptive measures rather than waiting for things to fail to the best of his abilities. And honestly nowadays no such thing as cheap parts. I also had a Land Rover Discovery Series 1 which I drove till it hit 325k kms and it was the most reliable car I ever had. I drove it to Abu Dhabi and back twice a day putting over 400kms on it daily. And only once the drive belt tensioner broke which a quick 20min side of the road repair and was on my way again.

And your "priend" runs a garage ?!?!?!?! Remind me to never go there for any work I think the problem is he's been driving that shopping trolley for too long and think all 4x4s work that way. Here is Toyota's own simplified version which shows how shopping trolley 4wd system ( which they say themselves is not meant for heavy duty off road use ) differs from proper 4wd systems.

I call it the Range Rover tax. As soon as they see you rolling in through the gates, they see the next three months rent rolling in with you. The older Land Rovers are very easy to work on since basically the Rover V8 is an old American Buick push rod V8 from the 60s and remained pretty much the same till 2004. In 2002 the RR was fitted with the BMW M62 engine which was being used in BMWs like the 7 series since the mid 90s and was already tried and tested and was also used in the BMW X5. Frim 2002-2005 you can basically use BMW parts which I find are much cheaper and widely available. I was looking for a used ignition switch for my RR and the cheapest I found was 300 used at a LR parts guy. 3 doors down I bought the same from a guy who brings in jap BMW half cuts for 50dhs. The in 2006 the Jaguar V8 was brought in which was also tried and tested. RR, RRS and even the LR3 used it. I ve seen many RRs with 300k plus kms on them and they still look run and drive just fine. I even know a guy with an LR3 with 400k miles and ride drives and pulls just fine, so these motors do last a long time if you keep up with general.maintenance.

Goes to show you have no clue what you are talking about. 1995-2002 were consindered to be the most unreliable, all because of the Air suspension system which could only be reset and brought back to life only by the dealer even if you had repaired it. End of 2002 the 3rd generation Range Rover was introduced which lasted till 2012, with a engine change from a BMW to a Jaguar unit in late 2005 for the 2008, and upgrade of the ICE system almost everything else remained the same save for slight face lifts in 2006 and 2010. So you saying anything after 2008 blah blah holds no water because from 2006 to 2012 the car is pretty much the same. And in general 2003 to 2013 are also very alike sharing over 60-70% components and parts

That sounds about right, I did some calculations back in the day when I use to drive a Land Cruiser and I used to get around 30kms for 10dhs worth of gas.

My only advice would be if you want to get the complete Range Rover experience then go for the what us commonly known as the Full Fat Range Rover and not the Sport, go for the end of the line of the L322 shape, i,e 2012. Supercharged or non supercharged is up to you, if you like fasts beasts then the Super Charged. Although even the normally aspirated RR is no slow coach either. By the end of the production run of any car all known bugs are pretty much sorted out and its pretty solid and Land Rover usually like to thrown in all the bells and whistles in the last year for an any generation last production run. They did that with the Classic in 1995 and the P38 in 2002, not 100% sure about the 2012. I say test drive all four ( RR, RRSC, RRS, RRS-SC ) and pick the one you like best and then hunt for that one and buy the best one you can afford. Its a good time to be buying cars in this economic downturn and a very slow and sluggish new and used car market, so don't be afraid to negotiate a deal

R.I.P dear old passat battery. Hope you are powering a supercharged Passat in battery heaven now

Riiight, like that ever gets followed. I've been failed on things which say that don't need approval ( bumpers )and passed on things that says it needs approval ( modified suspension )