Gaurav

Time to have an easy relaxed newbie night drive from Tawi Nizwa to Pink rock area or Bidayer if everyone likes. It's a perfect drive for newbies or an absolute newbie to learn in the best terrain that gradually transforms and offer plenty of opportunities to learn and play. In the end, we will have a suhoor before the dawn and return to tarmac before the sunrise. When: 31 May 2018 Meeting time: 10:45 PM, the convoy will move sharply at 11:00 PM Where: Tawi Nizwa Shops GPS Coordinate: https://goo.gl/maps/yYkFvPBzW3U2 Level of drive: Newbie - Fewbie - All are welcome Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 10 inches of ground clearance. Plan: Drive, train and enjoy until about 6 AM What to bring along: Loads of snacks, Suhoor meal, plenty of water - whatever you like with little extra to share, water, liquids, smiles, stories, enthusiasm and willingness to learn. Approximate finish time: 6 AM Please RSVP on below calendar

After all this gir gir, I like to add that not all EV charging points (especially the fast ones) are free and secondly they are owned by different service providers means you need to get an account with 10-20 different providers to charge your car on the go (not nice). At least this is what I have seen in the UK early this year. From London to Oxford and London to Canterbury (diff routes) I have seen 6-7 different electric charge provider bay and none of them offered for free, not even the slow charge. Making an account requires some 20-50 GBP to get a card that will come in the post and then you pay per charge too. I assume it will be 1/4 of the Petrol cost but hassle and downtime will be ten folds at least for now. Imagine you lose the freedom of pulling over in next fuel station be it Emarat, Eppco, Enoc or Adnoc and be sure to get your car topped up for next 300-500 kms. With EV you will be always pressurized to find the next charging point. Btw the home charging kit that comes with these cars is the slow charge that takes about 6-8 hours to fully charge with the household electric socket.

So it's basically a Tesla under the hood of RRC. Creative. Actually speaking this conversion is quite smart and intelligent to test the electric concept in your own car, which you have been driving previously with IC. This way you can really have an apple to apple comparison if electric does 100% what IC was doing or not. Instead of buying a new electric car that comes with its own mind and character and will make you (probably) lost in limbo. So RRC was thinking that people will only drive their cars till 99,999, really....! as odometer was 5 digits. Anyone noticed that this RRC was just 29k driven, damn lucky owner Jeh, what Treks mentioned about Electric and Range in one sentence means the electric charging range, and not RR usual woes. I totally agree with Treks. TBH, what I feel the way forward in future will be solar, wind, nuclear but not electric as the electric model is just being used as a stepping stone to graduate to that level. So if consumers can ditch IC for electric then next move will be a lot easy without any resistance. The best temporary solution is actually a Hybrid version than going all electric that has tons of Range issue and charging downtime and availability. I drove a BMW 530i Hybrid for two weeks in London and I was impressed with 6-7L/100 fuel economy for such luxury sports sedan. It has a peony battery with a range of 14 miles which made me laugh initially, but when I start using it that made a lot of sense that car automatically charging the battery all the time and using on constant cruising speed, where you don't need 1000 hp to push. Jeh: Nice video and good find

Well it's not always the case as speed limit has a chime and warning have beep / beeps, so it depends what Suzuki opted for, but still with little DIY experiments and research, you can isolate this issue.

I agree it can't be disabled as its a norm for GCC spec and the only person who can disable it is the agency and they will never agree to do it to contradict with GCC specs. So Barry route is much better, faster, easier and permanent.

Really it's made for fun, otherwise who will stick a spoiler on pickup. Nice civicish touch lol.

I agree, that's what I doubted even as Im using Seagate for very long and it never failed even after 10 years of usage.

My 3TB Seagate is just one year and a half old drive started to fail now. Checked the souq invoice as it has only one year warranty. So now specifically looking for 5 years warranty product that can last for some time.

Please don't post such car porn here to make us realize how poor we are. Amazing love for classic car and detailing done was so amazing and very classy.

Yes my NAS has RAID and that offers 12 TB usable space and peace of mind if anyone HDD fails I can replace that HDD and rebuild the RAID.

Thanks Frederic, we not only share the same Pajero but we have so many things in common buddy. I do have 20-30 WD external drives with certain data labeled and stowed in drawers, I do have WD media hub that is attached to TV for tons of movies, I do use synctoy for syncing data between PC, NAS and external drives. I don't use cloud due to the size of data to be backed up in a jiffy is pain and that's why I invested in 16 TB Synology NAS last year and I'm very happy with the accessibility and performance so far. My PC has SSD for main OS and application and plus 2 standard HDD (3TB) for data access and temporary storage (1-6 months). One of these two HDD is failing and I need to replace them with HDD as I can't afford SSD for 3-4TB size.

Anyone experience here in IT hardware can help me decide on my next purchase of SUPER reliable internal Hard Drive, irrespective of cost. I have researched few but don't know which one is really top class: WD Gold, WD Black, Seagate Enterprise and Seagate Ironwolf. These all 4 comes with 5 years warranty and price range is also similar. Reason for so much fuss on reliability, because my current internal storage drive (not OS drive) is failing a just after a year and a half and shifting tons of data to my NAS is terribly painful with dying HDD that transfers at 110 KB instead of MB.

It's indeed a very nice example of good restoration job considering the age of this Mitsubishi Jeep. Btw, you can read here more in detail about the Mitsubishi Jeep's https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_CJ#Mitsubishi_Jeep

OR get some hard wearing paint protection coating from 3M, Paint Armor, Nano bond, Nasiol and others with 3-5 years of warranty

Jaguar Landrover is under Tata, but not Merc. Treks I agree I was also searching for Ferrari, but still posted this slightly inaccurate as I really like the artwork of the designer and at least 95% accuracy of the infographic (when it was made). DD, Mitsubishi still the 4-5th largest selling car brand in UAE. Probably not here as the title says: 14 Car companies control..... and I believe Mitsubishi is the only one who doesn't have any other company under them. And same goes for your cars made in sheds.

I know and agree with what everyone saying here, BUT do you guys really think ANY CAR COMPANY shares the hp is on the wheel.................? Not even a single car company share that number. What they write is Engine HP means on the similar scenario of the above video tested and WHP (Wheel horsepower) is usually 60% of that number if all stars and planet align in one line.

Its a 2.4L VVT / 4 Cylinder / 16 Valves delivering 124 kW / 167 Hp http://www.suzuki.ae/SiteAssets/brochures/grand-vitara.pdf

Really interesting infographics Source: Visual Capitalist / Business Insider

Engine oil consumption and vibration leads to one point that engine oil is either leaked or getting burnt in the combustion chamber as Shadow pointed. At first top up the engine oil and see if vibration stops, then at least half the battle is won. If not I suspect some of the engine mounts have also gone bad or engine is misfiring due to foul spark plugs etc. (separate story). For engine oil consumption, try to track the kms and see how much it is consuming per 100 or 1000 km to understand how severe the leak is? Once we know that, we can act accordingly. Do you see any spotting of engine oil in your parking spot? Let the car run idle for 15 mins in one place and see if oil is dripping under the car while car engine is running Check the coolant bottle, and see if coolant usual color from Green / Red has changed to light green or pink....? Check the tailpipe when the engine is running and observe if you notice any white smoke? Drive the car and see if the car is losing power on uphill or with sudden downshift or is it same like before?

Good, drive at least 2 or 3 used cars which is more than 3 and less than 5 years old to give you the right feel you will be living with for next couple of years.

It indeed sounds nice with 7 yrs unlimited km warranty too good to be true, means Suzuki is not selling these cars well in the UAE. Which in turn begs two questions: How is it to drive and how's the resale.....? Make sure to test drive the car before buying, if I am in your place I will also test drive a year or two-year-old cars from used car market and see how it stand with the test of time with UAE heat, when it comes AC cooling, responsiveness, handling etc. Also, check the resale drop of such less popular cars and if you are fine with steep depreciation then go for it. Last but not the least, remember no matter what Suzuki showroom or site says that it is an offroad athlete vehicle but it's "NOT". It may have a proper 4x4 system, but it will definitely not able to push through huge dunes and tall climbs in the UAE. Good for beach, small sandy area, and little dunes - at max.

Welcome to the Carnity, MisterPoet (nice ID). For dashboard noise I'm not sure maybe @skumar83 can advise if this is a usual suspect of Pajero or not, but for rear door always make some noise in the rough area due to huge tall single piece door and you can barely reduce noise by changing the door beading and again it will come in few months. It's more of a design flaw of the door, and that's why many other big size 4x4 comes with 1 and a half or 2 doors to prevent such squeaking and clattering noise. For timing belt, I think it's 100k kms and not 120k, please refer to your car model owners manual and stick to it completely. @Barry can advise further what all things are recommended to change while doing the timing belt job, so you don't open that area again. I think belt pulley and the water pump is down there.....right barry. Get multiple quotes from the workshop and compare and it should be in 3-4K (Sharjah and Ajman) to 5-6k (Dubai) with original Mitsubishi spare parts + labor. DO NOT BUY NON-GENUINE PARTS for this job, as belt cost is far lesser than the damage it can cause if it breaks. Check your power steering fluid and top it up to see if this minor steering noise goes away, if not some mechanical diagnose is needed.

I have got mine from London when I was there, similar to below link. It's a heat insulation and soundproofing flexible sheet with a sticker so that you can install yourself anywhere you like. I have ordered this for covering my air filter box and neck and left with two spare sheets. So one used it for firewall hole and it did reduce the noise. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Fibre-Car-Engine-Bay-Bonnet-Insulation-Noise-Hood-Sound-Proofing-Heat-8Pcs-/253494258749 If you are interested, I have one spare sheet that you can take it and try it first if it helps. In my Pajero, I just placed it under the mat to cover firewall hole without sticking and it reduced the substantial amount of noise especially at high RPM.

Your cooling system is malfunctioning and that's why expansion bottle is highly pressurized. This could be because of several reasons and first to doubt is Engine Fan (viscose clutch / electric fan) is working or not? Isn't the radiator blocked due to corrosion or leaking due to external damage? Maybe any of the radiator hose ruptured due to pressure and leaked all the coolant. Last but not least maybe your AC fan stopped working. In such scenarios possibilities are endless and proper diagnose can only help, but next time you encounter the heat gauge moved substantially to the hot red zone, immediately switch off the engine and pour water on the radiator fins "without opening the radiator cap or expansion bottle cap". Any car engine when overheating have only a few seconds of life to survive without blowing the head gasket and that will be major expense to open the engine head and replace the gasket, worst scenario if head is warp especially in Range Rover aluminium block engine, very easy to warp the head means to replace the engine head itself. I seriously hope while taking the video you have switched off the engine. Once you switch off and let the engine cool down by spraying water externally then after 10-15 mins you can switch on again for 5-10 seconds and find out which thing is causing this overheating. It could be something simple as an engine or AC fan relay and little tap or open/close could again start the fan (if you are lucky). I had a similar issue in my P38 Range while in stop and go traffic in Meena bazaar when all of sudden AC started blowing warm air and I saw the heat gauge moving towards red and switched off the engine. Stepped out and push the car in the proper parking and then discovered that top radiator hose burst due to stop and go traffic stress in the month of june-july and lost almost half the coolant and cause the engine to boil.

Finally, RTA renewal is done a few hours back and I'm relieved now. Thanks, @shadow79 for all the help in getting steering rack fixed again in goodwill warranty, lol.