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Found 7 results

  1. It's topless season! For Jeeps I mean! Along with that came the unwelcome guest - Stray cats. They have always been around no matter where you are in the UAE... keep your car in a covered parking in apartment building or park it outside, chances are you have this visitor sitting on your warm vehicle, taking creative liberty and leaving foot prints all over the windshield, trunk and roof. And if you are lucky... it will pee and/or leave scratches on your seat! Something had to be done... so I started looking for solutions... Cat Repellent Solutions... Cat have very sensitive sense of smell, so you spray some pungent odor stuff around, it can keep them away. This DIY recipe that worked for me - Water + Vinegar + Eucalyptus + Garlic + Rosemary = Mix all this good stuff up in a spray bottle and Viola! Spray them periodically around your Jeep or car or bike and you will not be bothered again. It worked for me so hope it helps others
  2. Traditionally, in order to disable your ABS/ESC control, you have to do the voodoo "steering wheel dance" or pull out the J6 fuse from the fuse box. Well, pulling out the fuse a few times broke my fuse puller! So, I started looking out for alternatives and finally found a solution. There are two ways to do it. One (most common method you find on youtube videos) is to intercept the wire from under the gear box... this method is tideous as it involves pulling out the 4HiLo gear knob out. This method is a serious pain-in-the-rearo! Good luck if you chose this method.. this post is not for you. Second method, is to intercept the same wire from the source, which is located under the hood. Much easier. Here is a brief write up of how I have done it. Things you need: 1. Any On/Off Switch. I used an accessory push on/off button. 2. 1-1.5m of electrical accessory wire. 3. Insulation Tape 4. Wire strippers and Wire connectors. 5. Handy Drill with drill bit. 6. Lots of patience, Sane enough to Cut the right Wire and a Steady Hand. DISCLAIMER: I do not take any responsibility in case you snip the wrong wire or short anything else in the process. Do it at your own risk. Another Disclaimer: This is a quick and dirty tutorial for a kill switch. Make necessary adjustments in case you want a cleaner safer way. Yet another Disclaimer: Apologies for the dusty pictures. Hope they help illustrate the steps! Okey, now that's out of the way, here we go - 1. Locate the ESP unit under your Wrangler hood. This is usually near the Brake fluid area. Push the lock pins on either side to release the latch and it swings up to unlock. ( Fig 1 ) 2. Unplug two more plugs that branch out from the same harness ( Fig 2 ). After doing this, its easier to pull out the entire harness from underneath the unit and towards you so that you can see it clear. 3. Remove the stock wraps and insulation from the thick main harness to expose the wires. Locate the Purple with light blue wire. Make sure its the right one because there is also another purple with dark blue (leave it alone!). 4. Snip the Purple with Blue stripe wire. ( If you want to make sure you cut the right wire, you can plug everything back in, turn the car on, and it will show the ABS and Traction Symbols on the dash. Pat yourself in the back! If not, and some other symbols show, then go back to step 3 and make sure you cut the right wire! ) 5. Attach some wire connectors to the ends of the striped wire. This is so that in case, in the future, you decide you do not want the switch, or you want to swap it out with something else, you can quickly do it. 6. Drill a hole wherever you decide to place the switch. Fasten the switch to the panel. Place a metal washer behind the switch so that it doesn't press on to the cowl every time you push it. Some recommend placing metal plates, but am lazy... this is supposed to be the easy tutorial, right? 7. Feed the switch wires through the firewall hole (fig# 4 & 5). You can fetch it from underneath the dash panel. Feed it through the right compartments to where you need it to come out. (PS: If you have already soldered the wire to the switch, then do step 6 in reverse. Feed a shoe lace or wire-puller-of-your-choice through the firewall and fetch the wire in from the dash side to the hood) 8. Attach +ve end of the switch wire to one end of the snipped wire and the -ve end to the other snipped end. It doesn't matter if you get the +ve and -ve reversed as you are just extending the connection from the same wire and not dealing with a +ve or -ve literally. 9. Once all the switch and connections are tested and verified, insulate and wrap the wires back. Make sure no wire or metal contacts are exposed. Secure with zip ties where ever necessary. (Fig6 shown for reference but I wrapped the exposed contact later with insulation tape) 10. Close everything back and go through all the work again to make sure everything is where its supposed to be. The Switch pushed in, means the wire is connected, so your ABS and ESC is active. When the switch is in the OFF position, there is a break in the connection, so your ABS/ESC will be inactive. Fig 7 shows a rough wire diagram. To Reset the warning lights on your dash, turn the car off, push the switch to ON position and the ABS/ESC lights should go off. Safety note: Activate the switches ONLY WHEN CAR IDLE. DO NOTE activate while driving or you may end up doing some unexpected drifting or donuts! Tutorial only applicable for JK (07-18) Wrangler models. Refer to your manual for wire codes if needed. Enjoy and Safe Off-Roading! Follow @joshmyster on instagram in case you found this tutorial helpful.
  3. until
    UFIXIT.AE - Open House - Self Service Car Repair When: Saturday, 16 Dec 2017 - 12 PM - 6 PM Where: Warehouse 22, DIP2, Dubai, United Arab Emirates GPS Coordinate: https://goo.gl/maps/yRRkcrrhGgz Theme: The ‘theme’ of the event is BRAKES, i.e they will have activities and information related to brakes. Offer: All participants will get FREE 1-hour of use of the garage.
  4. http://www.ufixit.ae/ offers the most cost-effective solution for all car maintenance needs. As the name suggest U FIX IT, offers fully functional lifts and well-equipped garage to let you fix your car by yourself. UFIXIT.AE - Open House - Self Service Car Repair When: Saturday, 16 Dec 2017 - 12 PM - 6 PM Where: Warehouse 22, DIP2, Dubai, United Arab Emirates GPS Coordinate: https://goo.gl/maps/yRRkcrrhGgz Theme: The ‘theme’ of the event is BRAKES, i.e they will have activities and information related to brakes. Offer: All participants will get FREE 1-hour of use of the garage. U Fix It Garage has the facilities and tools for you to replace the parts and offer you a convenient, cost-effective and flexible way to maintain your car. An open-house style event invites you to come by from 12:00 pm to 6:00 pm and learns more about this new concept and what they are offering. To book a bay, go to http://www.ufixit.ae/book-your-bay/ and select the “Open House” promo. First 10 to book will get to use the garage facilities for free during this open house event. In addition, to give you the chance to check out their garage they are offering hot and cold drinks, donuts and kids friendly environment. @Alfie will be here to answer more questions or clarification for this event.
  5. Alfie

    UFIXIT Garage

    U-Fix-It Garage is the place for any motoring enthusiast. Whether you are a classic car guy, loves 4x4ing in the desert, prefers 2 wheels or just like to tinker, this is the place where you can take care of your ride.
  6. DIY: How to paint your wheels? A fresh looking set of wheels can make a big difference when it comes time to sell your car or maybe you just fancy a change of color to make your car that little bit more unique. As with any work involving painting, surface preparation is the most important part. Even more so than the actual painting. Runs and drips in paint etc. can be sanded and polished out but if the surface below the paint isn’t good, you’ll never achieve a good finish. How to: With the wheels removed from the car, give them a good wash and remove as much dirt as you can. Use a wire brush if the dirt is baked on or stubborn. If there are any really rough bits on the wheel, kerbing damage, corrosion etc. use 80 grit sandpaper to dress them down nicely. If there are large dents or scrapes, you can use some body filler to fill them up. When the body filler is dry, use some 400 grit sandpaper to make it nice and flat, the same level as the metal. Next comes the boring part. Sand the entire surface of the wheel with 400 grit sandpaper. The purpose of this is to ‘key’ the surface. Paint only sticks to rough surfaces. If you were to paint onto the original smooth finish of the wheels, chances are that it wouldn’t last and the paint would flake off. Make sure everywhere has been keyed, in all the little nooks and crannies. The next stage is very important. You need to make sure the surface is completely dry and free of water. Use a heat gun to dry everything nicely. If you don’t have one, a hairdryer will do just fine. Now you need to mask the tyre with tape so that it doesn’t get covered in paint. I find that if you wipe the tyre with thinners, it helps the masking tape to stick. Also mask the tyre valve and remove the wheel centre caps if you don’t want them painted. Now you’re ready to paint. There’s two ways you can do it, silver and cheap or different colour and slightly more expensive. I’ll explain the silver method first. You will need two tins of silver wheel paint. This doesn’t need primer or lacquer and will pretty much stick to anything you spray it on. Shake the can before you start and spray it on in nice smooth coats. Take your time, don’t make the coats too thick or the paint may run which will cause you headaches later. You can use the heat gun on a low setting or a hairdryer between coats to help them dry out. Leave the wheels for a few hours for the paint to harden, remove the masking tape and refit to the car. If you are painting the wheels a different colour, you will need two tins of primer. Shake the tins well and spray it on in nice light coats, using the heat gun or hairdryer on each coat. Leave the primer to harden for a few hours. This will make it easier to sand and prevent the sandpaper from clogging up then you rub it down. Rub the entire wheel surface down with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper to key the surface for the colour coat. You will need two tins of your preferred colour. Shake the tins well and spray on, again using the heat gun or hairdryer between coats. When finished, leave the wheels to dry overnight. This step is very important or the lacquer and paint may react leaving you with a terrible finish. You will need three cans of lacquer. Start with a nice light dusting of the lacquer. Leave this to dry for an hour and build up the coats. You don’t want the lacquer to dry out completely between coats as each layer will gel together and eventually form one thick layer. If you want a really nice smooth finish, it will help to leave the wheels to dry for a few days before you fit. When the lacquer is sort of dry but sticky to the touch, you can leave them out in the sun and the lacquer will bake nice and hard. **DISCLAIMER** I accept no responsibility for any harm, damage or poor paint finish caused by people painting their own wheels. This is just a guide to show you how simple it can be.
  7. Do it yourself: How to change your car engine oil? Changing your car engine oil is one of the simplest jobs you can do it yourself and can save you both time and money. Before you start you will need to make sure you have the correct engine oil, correct engine oil filter, correct tools and empty container to collect the old engine oil . Your motor factor/parts shop will advise you on these. The first thing you need to do is run the engine for 5 minutes to warm the oil. Cold oil takes forever to drain and you'll never get it all out. Place chocks behind the rear wheels, jack the front of the car up and support it with axle stands. Never get underneath a vehicle that isn't properly supported. You may think it will never happen to you but I personally know two people who have been crushed and killed by falling cars. If the car has a plastic cover or metal bash plate underneath the engine, remove this. Keep the screws together in a small box, this will save them from getting kicked around the floor and being lost. Now you're ready to remove the sump bung. Place your empty container underneath and slowly screw the bung out. Be ready to move the container to catch the stream of oil and be careful as it will be warm. Also make sure the container will be large enough to hold all the engine oil. When the engine oil has finished draining, clean the bung, replace the copper washer (there should be one supplied with the new filter or ask your motor factor for one) and screw the bung back into the sump and tighten. Do not over tighten or you may strip the threads resulting in a leak. It's better still if you use a torque wrench but if you don't have one, it doesn't matter, just tight it nicely with reasonable hand force. Next you need to remove the old engine oil filter. If it is a metal spin on filter, use a filter strap, chain or other filter tool to unscrew it. When you have removed it, keep it the right way up. If you turn it upside down, you will end up with oil all over your nice clean floor. Take a smear of new oil on your fingertip, rub it onto the rubber gasket on the new filter and screw the filter on. You don't need to use a tool to fit the filter, just tighten it tightly by hand. If the car has a paper cartridge type filter, remove the lid of the housing and withdraw the filter. Remove the filter from the housing and dispose of it. Clean the lid. You will notice some rubber o-rings along with your new filter, change the old ones for these and smear the new ones with some fresh oil. Fit the new filter into the lid and screw it back into the housing taking care not to over tighten it. If your car has a plastic cover underneath, refit it. Aren't you glad you kept those screws in a little box? Next, jack the car up again, remove the axle stands and place the car back on the ground. Remove the oil filler cap and pour in the new oil. If you're worried about spilling, it may help to use a funnel. Unless you know the specific quantity of oil the car requires, fill a little at a time and keep checking the oil level on the dipstick until it reaches MAX. Start the car, wait 20-30 seconds and switch off. Wait a couple of minutes and check the oil level on the dipstick again. If you need more, add it but be careful not to overfill. Too much engine oil can do as much damage as too little. Start and run the car and check for leaks, there shouldn't be any if you have done everything right. Remember to dispose of the old oil and filter responsibly. Don't dump old oil down drains, it harms the environment. If you have everything you need to hand before you start, this should all take you around twenty minutes. Don't worry even if it takes you an hour though, it's not a race and enjoy doing something by yourself for the first time. **DISCLAIMER** This is only a basic guide to changing oil and filter. I accept no responsibility for any damage or harm caused by anyone changing their own car engine oil. Before you start, I recommend you read about changing oil for your specific model of car as per the car owners manual. There should be plenty of information online about it. I only seek to demonstrate how easy it can be.
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