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There are so many versions I heard here that I am literally confused now and need some help guys. 30% allowed but up to 50% acceptable (no fines) Up to 30% allowed only Driver (30%), rear passenger window and back glass can be anything Front (30%), rear (50%) and back glass (boot) 30% Second doubt is, does the high end tinting films block the GPS and Mobile signals....? Does the front clear screen of high end brand like 3M crystalline block the GPS signals....?

I agree with @Danny on this. How well a car is made is as much the result of a country's culture, as it is the result of that country's view of the world. Germany, and much of Europe, has a culture of being proud of the work they do and the products they make, which largely translates into cars that are better than cars produced elsewhere in the world. America does not have this culture of pride, meaning that American cars are only functional, and merely do what they were designed to do, which is last until their warranties run out. To be fair though, America has come a long way in terms of car design and how long their cars last, but the few iconic muscle cars they produce still suffer from poor handling, build quality issues, and low resale values. The vast majority of American-made cars depend on technologies like traction control, stability control, and brakeforce-control systems to compensate for poor suspension and chassis design. This is mainly because of their roads that are mostly long, smooth, and relatively straight highways, whereas the roads In Europe are mostly hilly, twisting, narrow, and often wet. These conditions demand better brakes, firmer chassis designs, stiffer suspension setups, and more responsive steering to provide better handling than any car produced in America. In fact, the safety systems in German, and other Europen cars cannnot be diagnosed and repaired with equipment made for American cars, because of different programming. Moreover, German cars are generally aimed at high-end buyers, which makes them expensive, meaning that most American consumers cannot afford them. The high-end marketing segment demands car that are reliable, handle well, have good resale values,and says something about the buyer. German car manufcaturers know this, which is why they produce cars that satisfy these conditions, instead of producing cars that use technology to compensate for poor design. I hope this explains the basic differences between German and American cars, but be aware that not all German cars are perfect. All cars have issues and problems, and one of those issues is the electronics on German cars that can be incredibly complex and difficult to repair. Therefore it is important that if you buy a used German car, make sure that you have access to a garage that can diagnose its faults, and repair them as well. Programming on a German-made car is different from a German car that was made in America, or elsewhere outside of Germany, so be careful that you don't buy something that you cannot repair.

I am sorry I beg to differ on this. I find automatic gears are much better than the manual. I have used all my 4x4 in automatic gear and once tried Nissan Patrol (SWB) in manual gear and partially regret my choice at times, when the comfort of auto is needed to free one hand to handle the constant walkie talkie communication. My Nissan patrol first gear was too short and second was too long, I always used to struggle in steep hill climb and if I don't quickly downshift from third to second just above 3k RPM I will loose the momentum and car looses the power. Another thing is that manually shifted gear involve lot of delay as compare to automatically shifting gear that take few ms. This alone point is a kicker and makes a big difference in all intermediate drives, while negotiating long hill climbs. For the point of stretching any one manual gear for long time, same can be achieved in all modern automatic gears that has high rev range and if throttle is fully pressed they won't downshift until 6-7k band.

I have tried the car detailing twice in the past and was not quite satisfied with cheap and sticky chemical they use for interior cleaning that start smelling WEIRD in one day sunlight and whole dashboard and handle become slightly sticky. I want to do it myself this time, and I was researching some internal car cleaning products, but choices are enormous online from 100's of brand. All saying we are the best....! Appreciate if any one of you tried and tested good product to give long lasting clean look (shine/matt) but with no sticky and no smelly feel. Thanks.

I have tried the Meguiar's product and they are insanely awesome, although slightly expensive than other stuff but worth every penny. For outside wax and shine, I strongly recommend Turtle, Carnuba and Formula 1. All of these available in Ace hardware auto section. Go over there and get your full kit to shine every part of the car like new. I enjoy doing this self cleaning once every month (at least).

With the title itself many will jump up and down and swear on manual, but I am really confuse based on driving with few of my friends and have different experience. When manual gives full control to stretch the gear as much as you like, auto gives seamless shift on uphill steep climb when you are unable to shift with your hands or on long side slope when both hands are super busy. Really appreciate some advise from the user who have used these both gears in sand dunes here in Dubai. Thanks.

I agree with @adil on this one. Finding, and fixing a power drain can be very tricky, and this is best left to a competent garage. However, this can sometimes be very expensive, so my advice would be to have the battery checked out first. A simple current draw test will almost always identify a defective battery in only a few seconds, and this test is a whole lot cheaper than trying to find a power drain. My guess would be that the battery is not holding its charge, and there could be many causes for this. Even a marginally overcharging alternator can damage a battery over a long period, so I suggest you have the alternator tested as well, before it damages the new battery as well. Also don't forget to check battery cables and terminals, as well as ground cables and connections for proper contact. A bad ground connection can easily cause the symptoms you describe, so check, and double check all connections. Also check all the connections if you have any aftermarket accessories fitted, such as lights, and sound systems. It often happens that defects in aftermarket accessories damage both batteries and alternators, so be sure to check out all accessories if you have any.

I would still vote for manual gear buddy, as it gives 90% advantage over regular desert driving vs 10% downside, as you explain and I totally agree on the such exceptional situations. Manual is also awesome for self recovery as oppose to auto which might shift from 1 to 2 on slight vehicle movement, where you want to pull out yourself in first gear due to extra soft sand by spinning wheels as soon as you get initial momentum.

Plenty of places to buy: Ace Hardware, Icon auto, Ramy Trading, Adventure HQ in Dubai and Alico, Tazweed and Golden sun in Sharjah. Most important is why your tow rope broke? If it's too old and sustained over 15-20 pulls then it's acceptable. If it's new and broke that means you have got under rated capacity tow rope. Always buy that rate above 5000 lb at least, higher the better as they wont ditch you when you need them the most. Secondly also buy the rated shackle of same weight capacity to carry out recovery process smoothly. Good luck and drive safe.

Hi Gaurav, Trail Blazers from that period have a known issue with the seat frame that breaks. The most common problem is a cross brace that breaks because it is not strong enough, but if you know of a good welder, you can remove the seat and have it repaired relatively cheaply. Another common problem with Trail Blazer seats is the runners that either break, or stick in one position. This too can be repaired by most garages, but I would advise you to go to a garage that can do TIG welding, since ordinary arc welding will just break again because the weld is very brittle.

http://www.thenational.ae/uae/uae-motorsports-enthusiasts-advocate-test-for-vehicle-safety Motorsports enthusiasts are advocating a centralised testing centre to ensure modified ­vehicles are safe, adhere to ­emission and noise limits, and comply with the law. “I feel the best way to regulate the registration of modified cars is by having a vehicle testing centre, just like any other vehicle would have to go through,” said Kamui Mahtani, 27, a Dubai ­resident from Japan who owns a modified Honda S2000. “The major difference is that it would also check each of the components that have been modified and its safety.” For instance, the power output of a vehicle would be checked and compared with a standard vehicle. Brakes would be tested to calculate if the car has sufficient stopping power to match the engine power, he said. “Suspensions, wiring and every component of the vehicle would be checked in detail for safety,” he said. “Making sure the car is not too loud is also very important.” Adnan Khalil, who has had work done on his Honda Accord since 2009, agreed. “There should be a separate section for modified cars ­because after-market modifications both should be safe and legal,” said the 29-year-old, who is a sales consultant at a used car workshop in Dubai. “A lot of people don’t understand what’s legal and what’s not, and a lot of car modifications aren’t safe.” In Abu Dhabi, 6,630 vehicles were impounded last year because of modifications that increase vehicle noise.

Comparing on American and German cars, which one will you advice to buy in 2-3 year old used car market. Some says American is better in technology but not in safety and weak in reliability, other say German are good with safety and reliability but not with technology. I am highly confuse, as I old used Japanese that threw tons of tantrum after few years of use. I am really curious to hear your guys feedback, opinion and cross brand experiences (if any). Thanks in advance.

Hi Friends, My 2008 Ford Edge with 139000 km began to show a problem when I press straight down on the accelerator but the Edge would not respond. I tried and change gear but nothing happen. At the same time observed a transmission lagging, dropping, and loud/hard changes while shifting in gear. I called the Ford dealer. They said to switch car off and back again on. After that test out car worked excellent. It began working as if absolutely nothing was wrong. Instantly Again the same has happen yesterday when I was on a road trip where it felt like transmission slipped out of gear and the wrench light came on and off. But this time I also experienced it was in neutral, it wouldn’t accelerate when I pressed the gas. I did the same switch on/off activity and it seemed excellent. I am afraid now about this continuous problem with this car. Guy's please suggest me best garage near Al quos to fix my car soon in affordable prize price. That will be great help.

Man keep it 30% and you will be safe, don't listen to rule-breakers. For second question I am also curious to know the answer.

Hi Derick, your selection of 2-3 year old bracket is very sensitive to choose: If car comes with warranty then German cars are awesome to drive and own and have that special pride among all cars. If car doesn't come with warranty then better to choose American as you will get reasonable good feel but with very good value for money while maintaining it. I had couple of years old Porsche, Mercedes, Range Rover VS Ford and Chevy.

Hi Gaurav, Unfortunately you have to remove the seat from the vehicle to prevent burning the carpets during welding, but also because the frame is inaccessible if the seat is not removed. Also, you need to have the upholstery removed from the frame to prevent damage during welding. It might be possible to weld the frame without removing the upholstery, but I don't advise it. The picture shows where the frame usually breaks. The two, thin bars running at right angles between the seat runner tracks are the most common failure, but sometimes the riser brackets can also fail. The best thing to do is to remove the seat and have it repaired, since almost all seats from Trail Blazers from this period are either broken, or previously repaired, but with a repaired seat you never know what you get. The repair might have been poorly done, meaning that some power adjustments may not work. I hope this helps.

All good advices above, another point of consideration is if you use any phone or GPS charger plugged into cigg lighter socket than remove it when not in use. As these minute looking creature sometime suck up whole battery if car left unused for few days (as in your case).

Thanks for the swift response. Did your friend pay any tax or custom duties bringing the parts here? I already contacted them via email (Arnott) and I was surprise for the quick response (less than an hour!) They quoted me for the parts I asked but mentioned the custom duties, hence my question above. Cheers!

Hi Arran, The problem you describe is a known issue on Ford Edge models, and it is caused by the failure of sensors inside the transmission. It can be any one of three sensors- the transmission speed sensor, the turbine sensor, the pressure sensor, or all three, so it would be wise to have all three sensors replaced. It is strange that the dealer would tell you to merely switch the engine off and on again. While this resets the sensors and the circuits they control, Ford has issues a TSB about this issue, and the dealer should have known better, since this problem is a dangerous condition to have on any car.