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Some of you know my situation. I got screwed by an ex employer on my visa and ended staying in UAE illegally and racking up 71k in fines. No normal person can afford that so I took advantage of the amnesty and am now a free man. Its very hard to find accurate information on this process online so here is my personal experience. I hope it can help someone. Just to add, this is only the process for Dubai, other emirates will be different. Go to Al Awir immigration centre, near the jail. If you don’t drive there are no buses to here but you can go to Rashidiya metro station and take a taxi from there. It will cost you 40-50 dhs. There are plenty of taxis waiting to take you back but they will only take individuals, sharing is not allowed. When you get to Al Awir, don’t go into the main building. There is a big tent beside, this is where you need to go. One entrance for men, one for ladies. If you have no court cases, the only thing you need is your passport. If you have existing court cases you will need to resolve them first. If you had a case but it’s now resolved, you will need a NOC from the bank/police/wherever your case was. Get it now because it can take 2 weeks to complete. Now just go inside a queue up. Some people will be picked out from the crowd and asked to come to the front. We all know how things work here so don’t get offended, just be patient, remember why you’re there. If you want to exit the country, you will need to pay 520 dhs on the day. If you want to stay in UAE, tell them you want a 6 month jobseekers visa and there will be nothing to pay right now. For jobseekers visa, the person in the immigration centre will give you a piece of paper in Arabic. My Arabic sucks. I know numbers and I can spell my name so that’s all I could make out. The rest was gobbledygook to me. Take this piece of paper to one of the Amer centres and tell them you want a 6 month jobseekers visa. I recommend the one beside Oasis mall because there’s not many people and you can get through in under 20 minutes. You will need a passport photo. Bring one with you. The nearest photo studio is in oasis mall and they will charge you minimum 55dhs for 8 photos. You will also need to pay a fee of 620 dhs which is nothing if like me you have a huge fine. Your 6 month visa will be emailed to you within 24 hours. Print it out and keep it. No need for passport stamp. If anyone is here illegally or knows anyone who is, please do something about it now. The process is simple and there is less than 4 weeks to fix the situation.

Most of you know that I’m not really doing much mechanic work now but I still like to keep a finger in (fnarrr) and do bits and pieces. I’ll try to post more stuff like this when I’m doing car work but it won’t be a regular feature. This is the easy way to find a leak in an air suspension system without getting your hands dirty. The first thing you need is some diagnostic software and a bit of basic knowledge how to use it outside of just scanning and clearing DTCs. This method should be possible with all modern diagnostic software excluding cheap code readers etc. You need to enter the suspension system, read the codes and make a note of them then clear them. Clearing them can temporarily enable a disabled system allowing you to carry out tests if you work fast. The codes I got were, 01583-Leak detected in system 01577-Switch off due to excessive temperature 01583 is pretty self explanatory, it means the system has detected that the air pressure is dropping somewhere, ie an air leak. 01577 is a symptom of the air leak. It’s important to remember that not every fault code is the main fault, it can be caused by something else which is where a lot of people go wrong. Because of the air leak, the compressor is running for an extended period of time, causing it to overheat and switch off. This could be misinterpreted as a faulty compressor or relay but we will carry out the full diagnostic process rather than fire the parts cannon. FIFT- Fix It First Time Now we’re going to find out where the leak is. Enter the live data function and select compressor relay status and absolute height of all 4 shock absorbers. I have only selected the front shock absorbers because I already know the fault is in the front and am showing for demonstration purposes. Now, select graph mode and overlay all parameters in one sheet. It should look like this, You can see from the legend that the dark blue line is compressor on/off status, purple is left front height and light blue is right front height. Unless you are sure the problem is in the front, you should also have selected height for both rear shock absorbers and will have 2 extra lines. Notice how when the compressor is in the on state, both shock absorbers raise but the front right never reaches the same level as the left. When the compressor switches off, both shock absorbers start to drop. The front left drops slightly and levels off. The front right drops massively and continues to drop until it reaches the lower limit. The compressor switches on again just before 120s and the cycle begins again. We can see from this that the problem lies in the front right corner so 75% of the manual diagnostic work has been eliminated. I already know the problem is a leaking airbag because the one on the other side has already been replaced, but you will want to get a spray bottle filled with soapy water and start spraying it all around the air suspension components on the front right corner when the system is running. Wherever you see bubbles, that’s where you have an air leak. This is easier to do if you have a 4 post lift where you can raise the car but still have the wheels grounded. I’m lying on the ground on a piece of carpet which makes it more difficult to access and see components. A couple of final warnings. Never jack up a car with air suspension without first putting it in jacking mode. This can play havoc with the calibration settings and cause you problems when set the car back down. Never open any part of the suspension system without first venting the system. Your computer should have a function to do this somewhere in actuations or special functions. The danger of something pressurized flying off and hitting you is real. Slackening a pipe to let the pressure out of the system isn’t a good thing to do. When you loosen a nut on a pipe, you have less threads holding it in place. The pressure can easily overcome the lesser amount of threads, strip them and blow the fitting off. If it doesn’t hit you between the eyes, you’re left with 2 damaged threads which will be difficult to repair. Even if it does hit you between the eyes, you still have to repair the damaged threads you caused after you go to the hospital to get stitches. One last thing before anyone says it, I know you can use your eyes to find the problem. This is just an exercise in some of the things you can do with your computer.

OR a guide to make an easy diagnostic overly complicated. If the front right corner is dropping its obvious the problem lie on that end and get straight to the soapy water bottle test.

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Firstly, please check your car owner manual and go with the exactly the same spec as it says be it 0w30 / 5w40 / whatever If Adnoc Voyager Gold is the same spec as you need, then it's safe to try 100%. Then start researching why international known big brands of Engine Oil like Mobil 1, Castrol, Liqui Molly etc. are better than local brands so you can decide to shell extra money or not.

A good place to keep chickens too. Stick them in at night, wind the window down a bit and close the door. Totally foxproof. Does a clamshell count as a hatchback? 1.8 BDT mid mounted engine coupled to 4WD system. 444 BHP, 489 NM torque. 0-60 mph in 3.8 seconds. Runs a quarter in 11.4. That’s the homolgation model. The full fat version has a 2.1 engine, 815 BHP and does 0-60 under 2 seconds. That sounds impressive for a car now but imagine this car was doing that in 1984. A proper supercar terroriser.