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  1. You’re the Pajero Master @Stumpy Paj ! Have a look at the Australian Pajero forums, I noticed they had some articles about it.
    3 points
  2. Great topic @Looper, let's start some coaching again with the lens lover club, I miss those big time. Im still in love with my single lens AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR on my Nikon D750 that always served me well from close up to wide angle.
    3 points
  3. Thanks everyone who showed up especially to @Fredericwho led the drive, Dr @Chaitanya D who swept and support by @DP1011 and @Rajiv Sam It was a relaxing, scenic and enjoyable drive. This drive was good for me since I has been away from the sand for a few months. I have shared some photos.
    3 points
  4. @babaski@BIBIN THOMAS@Pierre de Maigret@Glenn W@Thejas Uthran@topgear@Bashar Beasha@Dorian Zissi@Rajiv Sam@DTG@Arun Menon@Haneef Thayyil@Harshal@Abhilash Kottakkal @Chaitanya D @DP1011 Thanks to everyone for joining yesterday! I hope you enjoyed the laidback atmosphere and had a safe trip back home. Great support as usual from @DP1011, @Chaitanya D and @Rajiv Sam ! You’ll find some nice pics in the drive gallery ! See you soon in the sands again !
    3 points
  5. When it comes to desert driving photography, having the right equipment is essential to capture the action from far as well as the cuteness of your ride from near. At the same time, you would also want to capture the vastness and unique beauty of these arid landscapes. Super zoom lenses offer a versatile solution, providing both telephoto and wide-angle capabilities in a single lens. We need the wide-angle for capturing photos of own cars that we love and cherish and telephoto for distant subjects like other cars while doing sidees or being recovering as well as ancillary subjects like the wildlife or other interesting details in the landscape. In this article, we will delve into the basics of super zoom lenses, highlight their benefits and drawbacks, and provide a selection of models available from popular brands. Understanding Super Zoom Lenses: Super zoom lenses, also known as all-in-one or bridge lenses, are designed to cover a wide focal range, typically ranging from wide-angle to telephoto, all within a single lens. Typically, you will find 18-300 mm in the APSC or crop sensor models and 28 mm - 200mm for the full frame models. These lenses offer convenience and versatility, eliminating the need to carry multiple lenses while driving. Benefits of Super Zooms for Desert Driving Photography: Versatility: Super zoom lenses provide a wide focal range, allowing you to capture various perspectives and subjects. Whether its photographing distant cars doing their things or your own vehicle up close during breaks, a super zoom lens has you covered. Compact and Lightweight: Compared to carrying multiple lenses, a super zoom lens simplifies your gear setup and reduces the overall weight, making it more comfortable to handle during drives or even on hikes. Quick Adjustments: With a super zoom lens, you can swiftly switch between telephoto and wide-angle focal lengths. This enables you to adapt to different photography opportunities on the go, ensuring you don't miss any crucial shots. Cost-Effective: Investing in a single super zoom lens can be a cost-effective option, saving you money compared to purchasing multiple lenses to cover the same focal range. Great Travel Companion: Even when you are not driving, and you are on a break, it is still a great lens to take with you. Super zooms are typically listed in the Travel Category of the manufacturer page. They offer better clarity than the phone you have up close as well as taking those faraway landmarks. Cons of Super Zooms: Image Quality: Super zooms do not match the optical performance of specialized prime or high-end zoom lenses. But the difference in quality is often negligible for the intended use in forum or in Instagram. Aperture Limitations: Super zoom lenses have smaller maximum apertures compared to prime or high-end zoom lenses. Plus, they are most often variable as well. This can affect low-light performance and limit depth of field control. But when we drive in the desert, we most often have ample light, and the smaller apertures are not necessarily a problem. Distortion and Chromatic Aberration: Super zoom lenses most often than not will exhibit distortion, vignetting, or chromatic aberration, especially at the extreme ends of the focal range. However, these shortcomings can often be corrected during post-processing. When I import my photos into Lightroom I import them with lens correction, and Lightroom is smart enough to apply the necessary lens specific corrections to all the photos automatically. Here's a small list of compatible Super Zoom lenses: APSC Super-zoom Lenses for DSLRs Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR (I bought mine second hand for my D5100) Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Sony E 18–200 mm F3.5-6.3 OSS APS-C Tamron 18-400mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC HLD Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD MACRO Sigma 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM Contemporary Full Frame DSLR Lenses: Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM Sony FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS Full Frame Mirrorless Camera Lenses: Nikon Z 24-200mm f/4-6.3 VR Canon RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM Sony E 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 OSS LE Sony FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di VC PZD Fujinon XF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Tamron 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC PZD MACRO (available for Fuji) Note: Some lenses could be discontinued but listed here because they can be bought secondhand.
    2 points
  6. until
    Drive Details Level: Fewbie Plus and above (all levels) Meeting time: 7:00 AM (SHARP - Without any exceptions) Meeting Point: https://maps.app.goo.gl/A1wurNAnHckBAxCLA Action Plan: As Tolkien's lovers know " Fangorn Forest is a deep, dark woodland that grows beneath the Southern Misty Mountains, under the eastern flanks of that range. It gained ill repute as the habitat of the Ents in the Third Age. " In the desire to continue challenging Sauron, by driving around its all-seeing Eye, we will head from Solar Park to Faqa by way of our own "Fangorn Forest", that is a long line of Ghaf trees that runs almost parallel to the Eye of Sauron's mirror field. This would be the most treacherous way to get close to the Eye of Sauron, and then escape to Faqa, as we'll cross the tightest area of technical dunes, in the warmest month of the year, on the softest sand. This drive is not for the faint of heart. Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 8-10 inches of ground clearance. What to bring along: Loads of water, snacks (for yourself), smiles, face mask, rubber gloves, enthusiasm and willingness to learn. Approximate finish time: 11:00 AM P.S. Only join if you have a compressor to inflate your tires after the drive.
    1 point
  7. Very good topic @Looper ! I agree that desert-driving photography is a bit tricky. I use full frame Canon EF with 24-105mm L series which is a good overall range but quite heavy to carry along. The fact that it has optical stabilization is a must in my opinion if you start to zoom in completely, and on a 300mm that would be definitely even more the case. (we are using it handheld and not on tripod). The Sigma 70-300mm with IS is a better and more cost-effective option and also less bulky. Aperture is indeed lesser of an issue as there is plenty of light available. Even too much at times. I've seen plenty of your photos on the forum, and how you nail them every time is impressive as my camera is quite old and is not that great for the quick shots (5D mk2). It takes time to get focus right and there's never enough time when cars are zooming past
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. I Was having the same problem with my cronos switch. Loose all lights and could not reset without restarting car. Would also get the handbrake (abs) warning light come on when ambient temp was above 30ish. I removed the cronos switch and replaced it with one made in Australia (I am told cronos tried to copy the Australian one) all my problems are fixed, the new one works perfectly. new factory look switch old harness on the left, looks similar but the new one on the right has much better workmanship/quality parts.
    1 point
  10. Thanks @GauravSoni for a great trip! Appreciate the extra bit to see new places. Luckily we did not meet the ghost of Ghost Town! Each bolw is a learning opportunity to try and do better next time. See you all soon on the sand! @Arda Yagcioglu we hope you are soon back in action!
    1 point
  11. So you have decided to become an Offroad Enthusiast by either joining an Offroad-Club, or becoming a Solo Adventurer to explore the UAE deserts ? Then surely the time has come to start investing in the proper offroad gear. Good quality offroad gear will be your biggest help to be self-reliant and to enjoy this sport thoroughly. After all you don't want to be stranded in the middle of the desert with unsafe or unreliable equipment. We have compiled a list of essential tools you should have as per our club levels, and included some recommended gear which we have used in the club with good results. OFF-ROAD FLAG (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) A proper off-road flag is safely mounted with a bracket, or suction cup, and does not fall off on the first windy day. You can either buy a very decent flag like the AOR ones, or go to the nearest dune-buggy shop, or Dragon Mart. A fishing rod with flag also does the job. TYRE DEFLATOR AND PRESSURE GAUGE (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) Deflating your tyres will be a weekly practice, and the accuracy of your tyre-pressure gauge will make the difference between struggling in the sand or floating on it. You can buy them in ACE, Speedex, or Dragon Mart and it is advisable to buy two different models to double-check the accuracy. Most cheaper models work well on normal tyre pressures (35 psi) but start to give inaccurate readings below 15psi. Deflating your tyres can be done with a stem removal tool or a quick deflator. Whatever works for you. How to deflate your tyres is well documented here: FULL-SIZE SHOVEL (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) Next to your Carnity buddies, a proper shovel will be your best friend in the desert.You should get a full-size laborer shovel, and not a small foldable camping spoon/shovel. Buy a shovel with a handle, and a v-shaped tip, you will find them in general hardware shops. Example below is perfect, and will allow you to displace a lot of sand. TWO WAY RADIO (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) While driving with an offroad-club, a two-way radio is essential to communicate with the rest of the convoy and to receive instructions or guidance. In Carnity Off-Road Club, we use two-way UHF radios that are programmable to our frequency list that we have created. Make sure your radio is always fully charged for every drive, and if possible invest in having a second (spare) one. We can recommend the Crony/Motorola MT777 or the Baofeng UV5-R model as both are good radios with excellent price/quality ratio. You will find them in Dragon Mart. Do not buy a walkie talkie without a display, as these will be mostly pre-programmed and the frequencies cannot be changed unless you purchase programming software and cables. NOTE: THE BAOFENG 888 RADIOS THAT WE HAND OUT AS SPARE RADIOS WILL NOT WORK OUT OF THE BOX WHEN YOU BUY THEM AS THEY HAVE DIFFERENT FREQUENCIES. YOU CAN PROGRAM THEM BUT YOU WILL NEED PROGRAMMING CABLE, A LAPTOP, AND SOFTWARE CALLED CHIRP. IF YOU ARE NOT INTO THESE TECHNICAL THINGS, PLEASE STICK WITH BUYING THE CRONY/MOTOROLA MT777 or BAOFENG UV5R AS THESE CAN BE EASILY PROGRAMMED YOURSELF WITHOUT CABLES OR SOFTWARE. Instructions on how to program the Motorola/Crony and Baofeng you will find in below post: FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND MEDICAL KIT (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) Both items every vehicle should have, offroad or onroad. You will find DRY POWDER extinguishers at the petrol station or hardware shops, and a medical first aid kit at general hardware stores or pharmacies. Make sure they are immediately accessible in case urgently needed. 12V AIR COMPRESSOR (NEWBIE AND ABOVE) After every offroad drive you will need to re-inflate your tyres. If you are lucky to be nearby a petrol station you can slowly drive your way up there, but in many cases you will be miles away from one. You will find air compressors from 150 up to 2500AED as per your budget and liking, but if you are using it on a weekly basis you will find that sticking with a well-known brand like TJM, Bushranger, ARB really makes the difference. You can be lucky with the Camel branded compressors in Dragon Mart too, but do not expected any warranty on them. ACE, Speedex has the branded ones, and also a few cheaper options. GPS DEVICE (INTERMEDIATE AND ABOVE) From a dedicated GPS device such as the Garmin 276cx, or a smartphone with your favorite navigation app, it will be important from Intermediate level onwards that you start practicing navigation, putting waypoints, entry and exit points, and seeing the difference on your map between for example long range dunes and small technical dunes. Apps like MotionX for IOS, MyTrails, and GaiaGPS are very popular and allow you to properly prepare for your route / track beforehand. RECOVERY ROPE WITH 2 SOFT SHACKLES (INTERMEDIATE AND ABOVE) Recovering stuck vehicles in the desert is a skill, and from Intermediate level onwards you will be able to practice this. There are different types of ropes in the market, and finding the right one might be very confusing. - A Polyester Tow Rope is meant to tow a vehicle on the road, NEVER for off-road recovery. These are the basic tow ropes you will find at the petrol station. - A Webbing Sling is a Polyester rope that you can buy in hardware stores and is meant for industrial lifting, but can also be used as tow rope in specific cases (to re-direct a stuck vehicle with gentle tugs). This material does not stretch. - A Snatch rope (flat) or Kinetic Recovery Rope (round) is a rope made of Nylon that allows to stretch for about 20%, and is extremely useful for offroad recovery as the stretching creates a kinetic energy and the recoil effect helps in recovering vehicles stuck in the sand. When choosing a kinetic recovery rope, you should select a rope that has a breaking strength of 2-3 times the weight of the vehicle you will recover. For example; if you recover a Nissan Xterra which weighs 2 ton, the breaking strength of the rope should be at least 6 tons. Most recovery ropes have 10-15 Tons breaking strength. The reason for this is that the forces involved when a vehicle is completely stuck in the sand are far higher. Our club uses both the Viking Kinetic rope as well as the AOR Kinetic recovery rope with excellent results. The Viking rope costs about 350AED with a bag and 2 soft shackles included, while the AOR kinetic rope costs about 390AED without soft shackles. (AOR soft shackle cost 155 AED per piece). A shackle is a device that allows you to connect your rope to your tow point. These used to be mostly rated metal D-shackles, but nowadays the soft shackles, that were well known in the sailing world have become in offroading too. A soft shackle will be safer to use as the less metal involved the better during recoveries. More information on using these Kinetic recovery ropes and shackles can be found in below post: FLOOR JACK WITH WOODEN BOARD (ADVANCE AND ABOVE) A hydraulic floor jack in combination with a strong wooden board will allow you to safely lift a vehicle in the desert to replace a tyre or fix a pop-out. We do not advise using scissor jacks or bottle jacks, as these are only acceptable for on-road and will topple over in the sand or possibly even on a wooden board. A good hydraulic floor jack should be at least 2T capacity and a swivel neck (rotating handle) will allow you to put it further underneath the vehicle and still be able to lift it. JZX or YATO has good hydraulic jacks. Do not buy the cheapest one available as the consequences or risks when the floor jack collapses could be very serious. A strong wooden board should be at least 1 1/2 inches thick and made of natural wood and not MDF or plywood. A good example is scaffolding planks. It should be large enough to fit your hydraulic jack on it. TOOLKIT AND FLUIDS (ADVANCE OFF-ROADERS) A toolkit will come in handy for a multitude of reasons, in case a vehicle breaks down, to fix a loose exhaust, flag, or bumper, but can make you a hero if you are able to fix your vehicle instead of leaving it behind in the desert. Following items are recommended: A small basic multimeter, set of spanners up to size 24, some adjustable spanners, a hacksaw, hammer, set of screwdrivers, some electrical tape, duct tape, cable-ties, some spare car fuses, spare valves and stems, tie down straps, socket wrench set and some pliers. Also a tyre repair kit will be coming in handy, together with some thick gloves, and battery boost cables. Following fluids are recommended: - Engine oil: 1-2 liter - Coolant: 1-2 liter - ATF Transmission oil: 1 liter - A can of WD40 or penetrating oil - Spray-can with water to cool down an overheating engine.
    1 point
  12. When starting as an off-roading enthusiast in UAE, you will come to hear about deflating your tyres, and setting your tyres to the right tyre pressure is one of the first things you will need to learn to master. The main reason for deflating your tyres is to obtain a longer footprint in the sand, and that enables you to drive on the sand, instead of digging into it. Tyre pressure is defined in PSI (pounds per square inch) or Bar. You will find both readings on your pressure gauge. In UAE most people use PSI, and the gas station compressors also use the PSI identification. Below you can see the corresponding PSI and Bar readings. As a beginner level offroader, you should reduce your tyre pressure to about 15 PSI. This is low enough to enable you to drive in the dunes without the risk of the tyre coming off the rim. This 15PSI is also perfect for on-road-tyres. After a few drives, and depending on the terrain, or if you have offroad tyres, you can slowly deflate further down to 10-12 PSI. Take note that the risk for having a pop-out will increase, so don't be afraid to post your questions on the Carnity website or consult one of the marshals if you are not sure about your tyre pressure. There are different ways of deflating your tyres, and each have their advantages and disadvantages. The more you will practice, the sooner you will find out what works best for you. How does a stem valve looks like ? The stem valve is consisting out of 3 pieces. The body, that is made of flexible rubber, the core, and the valve cap. Take note of the following: - The rubber valve body wears out over time. Once you start to see cracks, it is advisable to get it replaced at the nearest tyre center. - The valve core is a tiny component with a small rubber gasket. If you remove them on a weekly basis, the gasket slowly wears out or the core can even break. Carry 5-10 spares in your vehicle. The tyre center often give them for free. - The valve cap keeps dirt and sand from entering into the valve, so it's advisable to always screw the cap back on. The process of deflating / inflating goes by either pushing in the valve core, which allows air to be released, or by removing the valve core, which is a much faster option. How to check the tyre pressure ? Verifying your tyre pressure is really easy. Get yourself a pressure gauge, and push it against the tyre valve, or screw it on (depending on the model). You will see the reading in PSI or Bar. The digital ones are fine, but one day the battery will be empty, so a good old analogue is preferred to have as well. PS if you find that your gauge has difficulties reading the tyre pressure, and you really need to push it hard onto the valve, this is an indication that the valve core is worn out. Replace it with a new one and you will see that this will solve your problem. Which tools to deflate and how much time will it take ? 1) Set of keys, a rock, or anything you might find in your car (+/- 15 mins) PROS: CHEAP and plenty of stuff available CONS: Takes a very long time which you could use for a smoke or a chat and risk on damaging the valve stems. 2) Valve Chucks (4-5 minutes) Buy 4 of them and stick them on all tyres simultaneously and then wait about a few minutes (as per your type and size of tyre) to arrive at around 17-18 psi. Then take one tyre at a time and use your pressure gauge to further decrease and finetune the pressure of each individual tyre. PROS: Fast and Cheap CONS: none that i know off. 3) Stem removal tool (2-3 minutes) Available in most hardware shops. Enables you to remove the valve core stem so the tyre pressure comes down very fast. PROS: Very Fast and Cheap CONS: Be careful not to lose the stem as it can blow out. So taking some spare is advisable. Be careful not to deflate too much as it really goes fast. Use a stopwatch and learn to find the perfect timing when to screw it back in, and then double check with a pressure gauge. 4) Rapid Tyre deflator and pressure gauge ( 4-5 mins) This tool enables you to loosen the stem, quickly deflate and immediately take a pressure reading. PROS: Professional tool for reasonable price, pressure gauge and deflator in one tool. CONS: Might take a bit of practice to get the hang of it. The fake chinese ones are fairly unreliable. As with all tools and gear, we advise you to practice a bit at home to become familiar with them before your desert driving. It is also recommended to carry two pressure gauges, so you can compare them with each-other and double check your readings. Often we have seen pressure gauges giving accurate readings at high pressures (35) but very inaccurate results at 10-15 PSI.
    1 point
  13. Having a fire extinguisher in your car is good, but sometimes it's of no use if car catches an instant and uncontrollable fire. In that scenario, best is to learn - how to exit the burning car with all your "critical belongings" under 10 seconds. Here are the stats that show the percentage of each type of cause that is responsible for an uncontrollable fire. 49% - Mechanical failure or malfunction 23% - Electrical cause 11% - Leaks or breaks 09% - Unknown causes 05% - Catch fire from another burning source 03% - Accidents or rollover So in short, 83% causes of an uncontrollable car fire is because of an owner negligence and only 17% is beyond anyone control. So NEVER delay car maintenance, use cheap parts, ignore leaks / rattling / grinding noise again. Here are the 7 main reasons that can cause an instant and uncontrollable car fire and how to prevent it: Engine Oil: As much as buying the best engine oil for your car is very important, you should also pay equal attention to any engine oil leaks. Most of the car engines leak oil when they get older, as the rubber gasket inside the engine tend to stop work and ideally they should be replaced before the leak starts. It's always a good practice to inspect the engine oil leak under the engine and sump area to notice any spotting or dry leak stains at least once a month. If you see any stains in your car park, it's already too late and you should check for its severity and/or replace gaskets/hoses asap. Changing engine gasket is not cheap so if you are press for expenses, get it checked for its severity and let a mechanic or car experts advise you if it's safe to drive for a while. You should also check your engine oil regularly if you have done any engine tuning recently. You can also do the car engine compression test to find out the overall health of your car engine. If engine oil is dripping on the exhaust or on any other heated surface, then don't take any chances as it may ignite on your next drive and get it fixed asap or stop driving that car immediately. If you get the check engine light or see smoke from the engine hood, switch off the car immediately. Even a small engine oil leak can catch fire and that small fire can burn down the nearby high-pressure hoses that can result in an uncontrollable car fire. Coolant: As the name suggests, it cools down the engine internally that has varied temperature from 60 degrees to 1500 degrees at various stages. Engine coolant constantly circulates between the engine jacket and radiator. Thermostat work as a gatekeeper to let the coolant cool down in radiator to exchange with hot coolant that was running in the engine jacket. Even the smallest of a coolant leak is very dangerous, because first, it will spoil your engine within a few seconds and then burn the whole car down in minutes. If coolant quantity reduces or becomes totally empty then the engine won't be able to cool down and will blow the engine head gasket first, warp the engine head and then catch fire. Make sure to check your coolant level always at least once a week, and for off roading just before every drive. And you should know how to test car engine coolant. If there is a coolant leak, please DO NOT DRIVE to save from huge expense that comes from rebuilding an engine or risking your life. Always keep an eye on the heat gauge in the dashboard while driving and pull over the car if it rises above the ideal range. If the heat gauge moves up "little" in the slow-moving traffic and AC stop cooling and come back to normal on the highway, that means something is wrong in the cooling system and get it checked asap but still, you can drive with caution. Gear Oil: Any unusual behavior from the gear shifting with jerk or delay in picking gear or confused with downshift or upshift is a tell-tale sign of failing gear or gear oil. You should also read 5 signs to change your transmission for more details. As the first rule of thumb, get the gear oil and filter change to OEM specs and inspect the sump magnet for any metal shavings. Very fine shavings like a paste are acceptable but if shavings are like spikes then the gear is failing and it needs to be rebuild or change asap. And never believe on the myth about lifetime transmission fills. Continue driving with failing gear is extremely hazardous as it will heat up the gear oil more than its normal temperature. If the car is equipped with A/T light, you can still stop until it cools down, but if the car has no A/T warning light in instrument cluster then it will overheat and explode the weakest pipe or joints and catch an instant and uncontrollable fire under the dashboard. I have recently witnessed this scenario and we were unable to fire-fight instead of several extinguishers used and the car was fully burnt within few minutes. Fuel: One of the most inflammable item in your car and you should never ignore the fuel smell coming from any part of your car. The fuel system is completed sealed and pressurize so ideally not even a vapor can escape. In several occasion leaking fuel pump due to the bad gasket or leaking injectors can cause an instant and uncontrollable fire. If you spot any such fuel smell immediately switch off the car and let competent mechanic have a thorough look rather than taking a chance to drive back home or work. If the smell is coming from fuel cap, then switch off the car and wait for 10 minutes and open the fuel cap to release any excess fuel pressure (if any), occasionally this helps to some extent and then start the car and let it idle for 5 minutes to test. If you still smell the fuel, take no chance and put the car on recovery bed. Electrical: One of the easiest thing to fail and cause a fire is electrical wiring, fuses, relays, etc. Although most of the time the electrical fire is controllable by a car fire extinguisher, but if it happens near hot and pressurized hose then it will become uncontrollable very fast. A major cause of electrical failure is bad workmanship and running the cables from non-designated areas. Using educated electrician is very important to install new electrical components safely, be it off-road lights, winch, music system, amplifier, etc. If any additional cable has been pulled from the car battery then it has to have a certain rating to draw the required amperage load. Wrong or cheap cables will melt and may cause a fire. Such fire or short circuit is also traceable with the plastic burning smell and thin smoke. If you spot the plastic burning smell or smoke or both, immediately switch off the car and reach to your fire extinguisher. First and foremost check the switches, wire and electrical component that you have recently installed. Most of the bad workmanship fail within a few months or under extensive load, so you can doubt accordingly and go close to that switch, cable or component and smell the source. Switch on the car ignition and see if it again smell or produce smoke, then switch off the car and disconnect that component either from switch level or fuse or directly from the battery. Accident: Rare but possible, that after an accident you might damage some flammable fluid hose that can cause a fire. For safety reason, in case of an accident especially small ones, on which we always focus on the accident damage rather than the whole integrity of the car. You should inspect the car from all sides and look for any leaks or burning smell from the engine bay and under the car. If you spot any leak other than AC water dripping, don't drive the car until you figure out what has been leaking and is it safe for a short drive to mechanic or not. Ignoring any small leak, smell, smoke can cause an instant and uncontrollable fire as something under the hood must have been impacted and might leak or explode under the pressure if you drive again. Must read: The top 10 things to check after a car accident. Accessories: One of the first things to fail in your car is an aftermarket accessory, as many car owners buy the cheapest quality of car accessory for the sake of price only. If you are really lucky, it will simply stop working, but if not it can cause the other car component to fail to cause the fire or shutting off the car completely for smallest of internal short circuit. Always stay away from rock-bottom cheapest accessory as it might cost you the whole car. Go with a trusted brand, model and spec that has been proven in the market. Do your research before installing them, for what all additional changes/upgrades you should be doing to support that accessory. For example, if you plan to install 3000 watts music system with amp and woofer, battery upgrade is a must or at least test your battery. Same for additional lights or other electrical stuff that you plan to install. It's always best to discuss your build plan with car experts to seek the best advice like here: Help needed in car audio system selection. It's a prime example of how to research, discuss and then build any aftermarket car accessory that brings you great value and peace of mind for years. MUST READ: How to correctly use the Car Fire Extinguisher Types of extinguishers that are out there to stop a fire in your car
    1 point
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