Pajero - fancy kill switch vs relay off vs white wire short - differences and consequences?

[Marek_was003]

Newbie Pajero driver here - all these are questions are considered based on driving on sand only, so not intended to do doughnuts on tarmac or anything equally dumb.

I get the idea why driving on soft sand often requires full power and various assists can only get the situation worse, but why isn't it enough to just shut ASC OFF on my car to do what I want to do? Even in ASC OFF mode I hardly feel any change in the behavior of the car's support systems - the car is still fighting with me by cutting the throttle and braking wheels which makes it difficult to get out of shady situations during dune bashing... And not really allowing to use the full power (all I see is the disco-lights flashing all over the dashboard every time when when WOT on soft sand).

So first thing I tried was to physically remove the relay responsible for all traction assistance and I was amazed how much difference this made - talking about four wheel spin on second gear in 4H mode during not-so-steep approach - no more blinking wheels - it's like a totally different car.

Next thing was to start looking for various products you guys talk about in this very forum so I don't have to get my hands dirty during every drive to get the relay in and out -> cronos4x4 or others from Australia, as cronos is supposedly causing some side effects and does not work as expected... When I tried to order one, pages I checked only offer them for cars with no diff lock, while the ones with diff lock are sold out (even at the price of over 100 bucks).

But youtube is full of various videos where people just cut the grey wire on the ECU and hook it to the ground via a on/off switch to achieve the exact same thing. This guy is particularly creative to achieve the same thing via third relay (complete overkill in my view, but I am wondering what you guys think?), but I did a similar thing to what is going on here - just the white wire and ground loop. There was never enough explanation as it WHY is this approach any different than vs buying a fancy loom and switch for over $100, nor whether this is applicable on 3.8L with diff lock or not...

I did it myself today, took me less than an hour, even though I never removed trim pieces from under the steering wheel or the glove box - so took me a while to locate all the bolts and clamps, but overall it's a fairly straightforward job. Pick the white wire, cut it, solder, connect it to ground, and done...

 

Nice round switch next to ignition, just above the ASC OFF, a little wire, soldering iron and job done.

Now what is the benefit of using cronos or other alike vs this simple thing? Any pros/cons of the DIY with single wire? What to expect from this setup?

[PETELCZYC PAJERO - luke]

the benefit of the chronos is that it allows you to use 'poor mans front diff lock'

 

once in 4L with rear difflock engaged, (rear diff ON disables ABS), you can toggle the chronos to 'Traction on'

This bypasses the ecu setting to re-enable ABS / Traction when it senses slip.. so ineffect allows you to have both front wheels simulating diff lock, by the brake being applied to the slipping wheel.

Rear with diff functions as normal.

 

I've personally found the above to be excellent when stuck in a criss-cross crest with 1 front and 1 rear wheel in air with no traction. was able to use front (with chronos simul lock) and back wheels (with diff lock) to get out of the situation without a tug or digging.

Kill switch works fine and does the same as the chronos.. unless you want the simul front locker.
(I have the 3.8 with chronos installed.)

 

Edited November 12 by PETELCZYC PAJERO - luke
typos

[Marek_was003]

I believe I've been exactly in the situation you are referring to...

Thanks, that is the explanation I was looking for.

[PETELCZYC PAJERO - luke]

thats the one!

[Frederic]

Your kill switch is a good option. In the case you have a stuck scenario with front wheel like your photo, you can just turn off your kill switch and restart the car so all traction aids are activated again. Like @PETELCZYC PAJERO - luke mentioned you cannot do this with the rear diff activated.

16 minutes ago, Marek_was003 said:

I believe I've been exactly in the situation you are referring to...

Thanks, that is the explanation I was looking for.