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Alternatives to beadlock


Luke K P

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Beadlocks are heavy and difficult to work with if need to do in the field re-beading.

The two alternatives I've found are the method beadgrip, and the icon innerlock. Both of these are lightweight and can have tyres installed without needing to be torqured precisely and needing retightening every X KMs.

Icon features locking pins that are installed radially into the wheel stopping any sideways motion of the tyres, whereas the bread grip utilises ridges on the inner bead groove to help stop the bead slipping.

Looks like the innerlock tech might do a better job at holding your tyre impact from the pressure testing performed by both companies. (See images below)

Here is link to both manufacturers info: 

Method beadgrip:

https://www.methodracewheels.com/pages/bead-grip?_pos=1&_sid=847b565ed&_ss=r

ICON vehicle dynamics:

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/rebound-pro

 

Anecdotally, I found the beadgrips to be excellent when I was running them on pajero. Never had a pop out whilst using them compared to 3or4 on my stock rims. (Could also be sure to driving style changes...)

 

Do you know of any other simulated beadlocking tech that's available out there. And any real world experience (good or bad) using these over standard rims or real beadlocks?

 

 

lab-approved.jpg

method-race-wheels-All-New-704-with-Bead-Grip-2-819x1024.png

Edited by Luke K P
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3 hours ago, Luke K P said:

locking pins that are installed radially

Radial pins - wont these keep hitting the tread inner side on full compression of the tyre during jumps or in case of puncture?

I have had a look at the inside of a friends tyre , after around a year of usage i believe (but not ICON) ...there were damage spots corresponding to the pin locations on the inside of the tread

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Just now, Sunil Mathew said:

Radial pins - wont these keep hitting the tread inner side on full compression of the tyre during jumps or in case of puncture?

I have had a look at the inside of a friends tyre , after around a year of usage i believe (but not ICON) ...there were damage spots corresponding to the pin locations on the inside of the tread

LoL that sounds like a terrible design then!

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15 minutes ago, Luke K P said:

terrible design

but its still gaining popularity. so the experience could be one off or something to do with wrong installation.

Another recent discussion , i just recalled..  there was air leak through one of the bolts. this is again probably an installation thing, but you might want to keep that in mind if going for these.

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Third alternative, is to drive at 11 psi instead of 10 psi, if you have had consecutive pop outs at 10 psi.

Simple, cheaper, lighter and 1 less thing to worry.

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Let's root for each other & watch each other grow.

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4 hours ago, Gaurav said:

Third alternative, is to drive at 11 psi instead of 10 psi, if you have had consecutive pop outs at 10 psi.

Simple, cheaper, lighter and 1 less thing to worry.

I'm not actually looking at changing now that I've found my perfect pressure zone.

But I am interested in what tech is out there and the pros cons are re: tyre mounting

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