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After a lot of searching, patience and prayers from all of you finally I got lucky to source a really clean, low km driven (68K Km), original Japanese engine for my beloved Pajero - exactly same as mine 6G74 + DOHC As it is so rare and so clean and hardly used on road only, it cost me quite a lot: 6K only engine OR 7K for full half cut, so after testing and firing the engine early this week with Saleem and Jalil, we decided to go for half cut as many bits and pieces were so unused and fresh that we can use almost all of it to breathe a new life. Thanks to Saleem and Jalil for endless support and advice. Opened the initial engine ancillary items yesterday and it seems all look good and now we are in process of changing to new timing belt, plugs, engine main seal, converter seal etc. Hoping to plonk the engine soon and fire it by tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed until then. Special thanks to Jabal Tokyo owner / partner - Ahmed, who has been kind enough to give me a call within 10 mins of this half cut arriving and I manage to seal the deal immediately.

Is this car the cheapest car in UAE for under 30k Dhs. Has anyone test driven this? or know someone who bought this car. ? Chery Arrizo 3 Before anyone gets on the bandwagon of cheap Chinese cars are not reliable etc... This is the same company that has done a JV with TATA to start production of Jaguar and Land Rover in CHINA.

i got mine for much more cheaper but its used this is new

Why use old technology when you can use new? It’s like having a car with points that need to be adjusted every couple of months when you can replace it with an electronic unit and be done with it. Upwards and forwards. Modern synthetics come with additives that help adhesion to moving parts after switch off so that first couple of seconds where the oil is pumping up to the head isn’t so much of an issue nowadays. Even years ago people were using additives from companies like Slick 50 and Molyslip to combat this. Also, I think if an engine has started knocking, it’s a waste of time trying to use thicker oil, the damage has already been done. A set of bearings is the price of a few gallons of good quality oil and in a lot of cases they can be changed in a couple of hours just dropping the sump off for access. Once the clearances have increased, the oil pressure drops. When the oil pressure drops, protection drops, parts wear more, pressure drops, parts wear more and it continues in a vicious circle until the point of catastrophic failure. I myself had an old car that would sometimes drop to 3-4 psi because of a crankshaft problem. I used to mix a pint of 80w90 in the engine oil just to keep the engine running. I was planning to fit a bigger engine so I didn’t care what happened the old one. It eventually snapped the crankshaft. I wouldn’t do this on anyone else’s car but it’s an example of how using thicker oil instead of fixing the problem can go wrong. A lot of the time it’s just masking the noise, a bit like adding sawdust to an old differential, but the problem is still there.

My non-techy advise: you should always change the oil and filter together as a rule of thumb - be it gear oil or engine oil so that the oil contamination chances are completely over-ruled. I have read it online, that in some military vehicles where oil supply is scarce to reach, they change the oil filter and still use the same oil for some more kms without an issue. So the bottom line is you can still get away by reusing old oil but not filter.

my clearance statement is in regards of the engine as a whole is old technology hance having more clearance and the newer models like 2015 or 2018 engines having very minute clearance in between the rubbing parts (not the damaged clearance which in turn requires repairs)

Kolmanskop, an abandoned diamond mining town in the Namib Desert in Namibia. Most houses in the town are now filled with sand. I mention this only because I was once bitten by a cobra in one such house during one of my expeditions.