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One of my friend drive newer Pajero, I think 2014 or 2015 model and last week while off-roading he was complaining too much about weird noise when he try to do the side-sloping. Wondering if there is any quick fix for this issue Mitsubishi has provided to turn on/off traction control from within the vehicle? Or only disable by removing the fuse, then please tell me which fuse is responsible for this disabling the traction control completely? Thanks in advance.

Hey Members! I have had my '08, for a couple years now and its time to swap out my suspension. I have made my decision on the lift kits and upper controller arms (total Chaos). But now comes a very big decision: Shocks. I'm stuck between Bilstein's 5100's height Adjustable and Rancho's RS9000XL. I have gone through so many web pages and so many forums, all give me mixed feelings. A Major Difference the Rancho's are triple tubbed and the Bilsteins are Monotube, meaining that the Rancho's will have their dampening effects lessend as the shocks heat and in the UAE the shocks will be heated before you even start the car. However, the ride settings can be adjusted manually from a dial, allowing the owner to change the ride (smoothness) to meet his specific needs. Also in the US Bilsteins are an OEM part on the xterra. Confusing I Know I was thinking maybe a combination of the two Bilsteins in the front and the ranchos in the rear so that I can control the dampening of the rear when i'm on or off road, because the back end tends to jack-rabbit because of the flat be springs. I would appreciate any comments/advice/ alternative,

I have been thinking of selling my car and trying to find a right price and unfortunately no website gives the clear price here in uae. Is there any website or formula I can use to find the estimated best price for my car? Prices on buying cars website offers such low value that I can never able to sell this car as I want to use this money for upgrading my next car. Prices of classifieds site is having a huge difference from the lowest asker to the highest asker.

Hi Friends, My 2008 Ford Edge with 139000 km began to show a problem when I press straight down on the accelerator but the Edge would not respond. I tried and change gear but nothing happen. At the same time observed a transmission lagging, dropping, and loud/hard changes while shifting in gear. I called the Ford dealer. They said to switch car off and back again on. After that test out car worked excellent. It began working as if absolutely nothing was wrong. Instantly Again the same has happen yesterday when I was on a road trip where it felt like transmission slipped out of gear and the wrench light came on and off. But this time I also experienced it was in neutral, it wouldn’t accelerate when I pressed the gas. I did the same switch on/off activity and it seemed excellent. I am afraid now about this continuous problem with this car. Guy's please suggest me best garage near Al quos to fix my car soon in affordable prize price. That will be great help.

While this is an old thread 😂 .. Sharing info is good

Hi Abeer I totally agree with Hanif just wanted to add that your problem could be the stabilizer connection rods or stabilizer cups as your car is 2011 so check as it may be still covered under warranty (5 years unlimited mileage) and can be repaired free of charge with free loaner car to use during repair period. If your car 6 cylinder please check your (7 speed) transmission performance carefully and if you have any complain about it or notice you may include it in your warranty claim (8 cylinder quattro is different thing) just don't show mercy to the dealer if the car still under the warranty (as I think you are a lady from the name) and demonstrate how Eve can be Evil!! Good Luck

Thanks Saleem, for wonderful explanation and reasoning behind my curious question. Hopefully I will learn this some day.

Hi Edie All most all of drifting cars are rear wheel drive so in cornering the centrifugal force due to the high torque force the car to spin in a circle and to avoid that steering to other direction would prevent that. before 8 years I had a BMW E36 325i American Specs (it comes with GM 4L40 automatic transmission used in Chevrolet Lumina and Cadillac with 4 speed and 2 valve bodies!) and it was very easy to over steer it or under steer it in every corner since it was not equipped with traction control even in low speed as I experienced in U turns!! while drifting in all wheel drive is a harder job to do and required a higher driving skill and training. drifting is a dangerous to do and forbidden in public road use while knowing it would save lives to use it in emergency like driving in wet roads and sandy roads to avoid other drivers mistakes or road surprises. Drive safely !!

I have 2004 Range rover with 300000 km. Seven day back while driving I notice clicking or knocking sound coming out from the driver’s side. At an average speed of 60kmph, but as soon as it obtain to 80kmph it ideally go without a disturbance. In between 50 to 60 kmph speed the abs sign changes "On" immediately. Now that signals stick to until the car engine stop. I don’t understand literally what the problem is all about. I believed it could be typical replace of brake pads. Is it? I wish it just a brake pad or disc? Or something else.

Hi Husain He just need to push that switch (usually VSC no logo on the driver left hand reach near fuel cap release switch) and check the indicator light on the dashboard I drove it before but it did not have a diff-lock switch it just have a short shift knob beside the gear knob for 2WD, 4WD-Hi & 4WD-Low(with diff-Lock) enjoy gliding and drive safely!

I own a 2015 Xterra and i purchased the beast after careful review. The sales manager at agency whom i know personally advised that the news regarding discontinuing Xterra is not going to affect middle east market. Xterra's for the UAE market is assembled from their Egypt plant. They have a huge stock of Xterra's for military which is delivered on order basis. He told me there is no official confirmation about stopping Xterra's in middle east region.

I heard someone saying very confidently that we should use the diesel engine oil in petrol engine, as it has much better cleaning detergent and better lubrication than the petrol engine oil for extending the long life of petrol engine. Companies uses better lubricants and detergent for diesel engines, as diesel usage create lot of sludge and sticky black substance that require hard chemical in engine oil to keep it clean. Is it really true and advisable to use diesel engine oil in petrol engine?

This is a strange problem, but we will do our best to figure it out. The first thing to do is to apply the brakes very lightly when you hear the sound. You only need to bring the pads into contact with the disc. If the sound goes away when you do this, it means that the pads don't fit into the calllipers properly, and that normal vibrations in the vehicle are causing them to "bounce" around in the callipers. This means that you have to have the brakes inspected to see if all the anti-rattle plates are in place, or that nothing is obviously out of place. It is likely that the ABS system is registering this as a fault, which is why the light comes on. However, you need to have a proper OBD II diagnostic check performed to see if there is not some other problem that could cause the ABS, or other system to activate the brakes at the speeds you mention. It could also happen that the ABS is deactivating itself due to a problem it is registering, which is why the light stays on until you turn off the engine. The best advice I can offer you with the amount of information available is to have a diagnostic check done before you do anything such as replacing pads and discs. You may not need to do this, since the problem may not be with the discs and pads- it could be in the ABS (or other) systems.

Hi Abeer, Sorry to say this, but Audi A8's are known for their suspension problems. However, you don't mention anything about the air suspension system. Does the air suspension work properly, and did the garage you took it to perform a comprehensive diagnostic check? Do you see any warning lights that could mean that the suspension is defective? The air suspension in these Audi's are prone to all sorts of issues, and it seems that because as you say, the car is jumping and down, the system is not sufficiently pressurised. The most common problem is that the compressors on these systems fail, but the really bad news is that they are very expensive to replace. Unforunately, testing and replacing a compressor is best left to the dealers, so your first course of action should be to have the compressor checked out by having an OBD check performed at the dealers. The noises you hear is the result of suspension bushings that have worn out because the system is not supporting the weight of the car. There are many bushings in an Audi suspension and it is not always easy to locate the worn ones, because when the car is hoisted on a lift, the suspension system sags, which takes up the freeplay in the damaged bushings. The best way to identify damaged bushings is to use a lift that allows the car to remain on its wheels. A competent mechanic can then check each bushing by applying a levering action to it. This is in fact the only way to identify worn or damaged bushings, and my advice would be to take the car to a competent independent garage, because they won't charge you as much as the dealers will. I hope this helps, and please keep us posted, since it may help other members as well.

Ferrari really know how to design and sell those design. Secondly a what an owner of doing road trip all across europe in ferrari, must be making everyone jealous in this downturn EU economy. lol.

XTerra has leaf springs, I never knew that....! And is Nissan is stopping Xterra....?

Actually, wrong, yes, wrong, wrong, yes I bought my X late 2014 after putting a down payment on an FJC.. After doing all the math & +\- over and over, I went and switched to Xterra, the price difference is huge & nothing justifies it! Visually: FJC is different, so it is personal choice visually.. mods: mods wise, yes you can find a lot, but you can also modify the Xterra to any level if you are willing to custom do or ship.. Which usually true off-roaders do rather Han those ready made cheap replicas.. xterra doenst have much mods because it is eclipsed by its big brother the Y61 Patrol safari as the off-roader of choice locally.. Otherwise it could have had much more.. Locally.. Maintenance: Nissan is far cheaper than Toyota in maintenance, the service prices were 60% cheaper when I compared Xterra to FJC 2 years ago when I bought my X, the service contract in Nissan included everything including brake pads, Toyota? Nothing! Just a laughable discount on parts & labor, & still was MORE expensive! alfuttaim workshop is horrible, my FJC friends who has accidents spent more than 6 weeks on a relatively simple front end accident.. Two different cars, same crap! nissan took less than two weeks fixing a similar accident in my case. Offroad performance: (I am an offroad marshal) Stock vs stock, Xterra have more power & tourque, & performs extremely well, but a skid plate is a must in the front. FJC is also great no doubt, but not better than X. FJC visibility is extremely bad, you don't see anything while climbing or on the top or the crest, just horrible. With modifications, the FJ can become a beast, but then you will find you paid the price of 3 Xterras to make one FJC a beast! and, in offroad, the driver is 80% of the difference, the really good driver will win in either X or FJC... resale value: yes, Toyota is better

Toyota's are over priced in my opinion, so if you want to save money with same performance and beter looks go with Xterra. They look strong and not flimsy and have better driving viewing angle than FJC peony window has so many blindspot and difficult shoulder view. Xterra, all the way, any day.

Design is too much personal choice, and I don't like FJC design at all and I love X Terra manly and rugged feel. FJC look like RC Car to me. Secondly X Terra has more hp and torque than FJ Cruiser.

The problem is not the fact that there are Ford parts in your Mazda, but rather that the mechanics did a poor job when they replaced the clutch. There are no "Ford", or "Mazda" parts. Clutch manufacturers make clutches that are used in many different vehicles, Ford and Mazda included, but without knowing what brand of clutch was fitted, it is difficult to say for certain what the problem is in this case. However, there are several possible reasons why the clutch is slipping now: 1.) The mechanics did not resurface the flywheel. When a clutch slips, the flywheel overheats, which causes the surface to become glazed. Glazed flywheel surfaces are too smooth for the clutch friction linings too "grip" the flywheel, hence the slippage. 2.) The mechanics did not replace the pressure plate. The spring tension in a pressure plate diminishes over time, so when only the clutch plate is replaced, the pressure plate is not strong enough to prevent the new clutch plate from slipping on the flywheel, and especially if the flywheel was not resurfaced. 3.) There may be oil on the new clutch. It often happens that when the crankshaft mainbearing oil seal leaks, oil eventually works its way onto the clutch, causing slippage. It also often happens that mechanics are too lazy to fix the oil leak, so even if they replaced the clutch as a complete kit, it will start slipping as soon as oil comes into contact with it. 4.) The mechanics damaged the clutch when they fitted the transmission. It often happens that the transmission is shaken around very violently by inexperienced mechanics when they refit the transmission. When this happens, the springs that control backlash in the clutch plate can be damaged, which can cause the new clutch to start slipping after a few days. 5.)The mechanics fitted a poor quality clutch. There are many clutch brands on the market that are extremely low quality, and it often happens that mechanics fit these clutches to increase their profits. The life times of some of these poor quality clutches can be measured in minutes, so it is very likely that you have one of these clutches in your car now. 6.) The mechanics fitted a rebuilt clutch, with the same results as point #5. These are the most common causes of premature clutch failures, regardless of the make or brand of car. All clutches work in the same way, and if I were you, I would go back to the garage that replaced the clutch, and insist that they fix the problem. All reputable clutches are also have warranties, irresepective of where in the world they are fitted, so insist on the problem being fixed under warranty conditions.

Totally depends upon the vehicle and usage. For a Wrangler, Kings first, although Radflo is the new hotness. For an FJ, ICON makes the best value pre-tuned multi-shock (2 per wheel) setup, but a case can be made for Kings or Radflo if only using 4 shocks. In any general sense, Kings and Radflos are really designed for high-speed desert racing, Icons a close third, with Fox a bit after them. The OMEs, Ironmans, and the rest are OK, but most don't offer a separate oil/nitrogen charge reservoir, which you want if hitting them hard in the desert at high speed. Nor are they as tunable as Kings, Icons, and Radflos. But let's be clear- you asked about "the best", and that ain't cheap. The best desert shock setups (8 Kings total including 4 multi bypass) will run at least 50,000 AED. Phase I of my FJ ICON setup just cost me 18,000 AED, and to add the Phase II multi bypass front shocks and rear bump stops will cost me another 12,000, at least. And I skipped the high cost options like solid aluminum billet upper control arms and matching lowers...it could have been a lot higher. So, you may want to consider what you mean as "best". And how badly you want it.

Ramy trading will run you about 13,000/- for the entire get up, including installation and Total Chaos packages. If memory serves me right, I beleive they had offered Lovells shocks and springs. As for the lift kit, Daystar seems to be quite popular and Calmini where one of the first companies to custom fabricate the lift kits and add a leaf system. As for the tires, going wider isnt a bad idea especially certain models of xterra dont have traction control (atlease mine doesnt, (Yahoo!!!)), but i would avoid sliding sideways when coming down dunes. Also your turning radius will be decreased slightly while driving, especially on road.

My purpose for the UCA's is to maintain the OEM setup of the car after the lift. I take turns at higher speeds than recommended and weave between cars from time to time, after the lift the centre of gravity is elevated and maneuverability becomes limited as a result. The UCA's in this case will enable me to move in a similar way as when the car is stock. Plus, if youre gonna spend on upgrades its better to go the extra mile and have a completley new setup. But Thanks, I do appreciate your input blackarmada. and sanpa, I will be in touch soon for the UCA's. Ciao!!