gautam

Even easier still is to just a buy a turbo model straight off the showroom floor. As @Technician rightly says, this type of modification is a real pain in the butt, and I would not advise it uness you have unlimited time, money, and patience.

Hi Danib, It is possible for mechanics never to see some trouble codes, and especially in the UAE, where there are very few diesel powered vehicles. Nonetheless, the symptoms you describe on your truck can involve one or more trouble codes that all relate to the temperature of the exhaust gas on this particular engine. Some of these codes are generic - P2471, P2479, P2031, P2032, P2033, and P2084, while others are specific to Ford, such as P242A, P242D, P246E, P0544 and/or P247B. This engine has several sensors that measure the temperature of the exhaust gas, which temperature serves as an indicator of how well the fuel/air mixture is burnt. It also indicates a few other things that have to do with how well the engine is working, but on this engine some of the exhaust gas temperature sensors are known to be bad. When the ECU receives a faulty signal from one of these [defective] sensors, i.e., the exhaust gas is too hot, the ECU “sees” an engine that is overheating, or running too lean, which is when it shuts down the engine to prevent further damage. This shutting down process is automatic, and there is nothing a driver can do to stop, or interrupt it, since for all practical purposes, the ECU has taken over control of the entire vehicle. Depending on which sensor is defective, the ECU may allow the engine to be restarted after a while, but in most cases, the engine cannot be started until the UCE “thinks” that it has cooled down sufficiently, which information it gets from the coolant temperature sensors. The only thing to do in this case is to replace all four of the sensors that monitor the exhaust gas temperature. This usually cures the problem permanently, but it is unlikely that you will find these sensors here in the UAE. You may find aftermarket sensors, but I would not use aftermarket parts if it were my vehicle. These sensors are very important to the overall functioning of the engine, and I would advise you to contact the dealer to get OEM sensors.

One of the best cars Ford ever made- I just wonder how well the Chinese copy measures up against the real thing.

Hi Jimmys, Technician is right in saying that almost all Jeeps made over the last five or six years have an emergency release mechanism on the shift lever, but it is sometimes difficult to get to, and anyway, manually releasing the shift lever only treats the symptom and not the “disease”, which in this case is a problem with the control circuit that locks the shift lever. The presence of the code the dealer found - P0931 – has this definition; “Gear Shift Lock Solenoid/Actuator Control Circuit “A” High”. In plain language this means that there can be problem in any part of the control circuit (including the locking solenoid itself) but in general terms, the most common cause of this code is a high electrical resistance that prevents the release solenoid from working. Note that on some GM products, code P0931 is sometimes defined as “Gear Shift Lock Solenoid/Actuator Control Circuit “A” Low”. This does not make much difference, since many of the causes of this issue can cause low input voltages as well, which will also prevent the solenoid from releasing the shift lever. The actual problem could be anything from a defective solenoid, to a bad connection, to damaged wiring, to a problem with the ECU, although ECU failures are rare. The only reliable and long term solution to this problem is to have the control circuit checked out by the dealer, and for them to replace the entire control circuit harness. It often happens that repairs to wiring in this circuit can cause similar issues later on, and especially when joints in the wiring are not crimped correctly. In fact, there is now an active recall on 2016 Jeep Cherokees that have this very same problem. In this case, the problem was caused by a defective tool in the factory that damaged wiring during the crimping process, thereby causing a high electrical resistance in the control circuit. I hope this helps you, but please keep us posted on what the dealer finds, since it may help other members that own Jeeps.

PHEA technology might sound like a good idea now, but it has a long way to go yet. Let's just hope it does not go the same way that rotary engines went, which was a long way south.

@Technician, you are right of course, but somehow I don't think this particular mechanic did anything to really check the condition of Shafeek's oil, except to state that it was black, and hence needed changing.

Did you miss the part about the TSB? And no real "mechanic" would NOT check the wiring while replacing sensors a TSB tells him to replace.

Hi Gaurav, Unfortunately you have to remove the seat from the vehicle to prevent burning the carpets during welding, but also because the frame is inaccessible if the seat is not removed. Also, you need to have the upholstery removed from the frame to prevent damage during welding. It might be possible to weld the frame without removing the upholstery, but I don't advise it. The picture shows where the frame usually breaks. The two, thin bars running at right angles between the seat runner tracks are the most common failure, but sometimes the riser brackets can also fail. The best thing to do is to remove the seat and have it repaired, since almost all seats from Trail Blazers from this period are either broken, or previously repaired, but with a repaired seat you never know what you get. The repair might have been poorly done, meaning that some power adjustments may not work. I hope this helps.

Hi Gaurav, Trail Blazers from that period have a known issue with the seat frame that breaks. The most common problem is a cross brace that breaks because it is not strong enough, but if you know of a good welder, you can remove the seat and have it repaired relatively cheaply. Another common problem with Trail Blazer seats is the runners that either break, or stick in one position. This too can be repaired by most garages, but I would advise you to go to a garage that can do TIG welding, since ordinary arc welding will just break again because the weld is very brittle.

I could not agree with Gaurav more on this. Although a Mustang is nowhere near being a supercar, its iconic styling and reputation makes it the closest thing to a supercar ever produced in the USA.

There are many things manufacturers can do to make their cars last longer, but the sad truth is that they make on average 10 times the amount on parts and servicing than the profit they make when they sell their cars to their dealers. So don't expect miracles to happen anytime soon.

Hi Arran, The problem you describe is a known issue on Ford Edge models, and it is caused by the failure of sensors inside the transmission. It can be any one of three sensors- the transmission speed sensor, the turbine sensor, the pressure sensor, or all three, so it would be wise to have all three sensors replaced. It is strange that the dealer would tell you to merely switch the engine off and on again. While this resets the sensors and the circuits they control, Ford has issues a TSB about this issue, and the dealer should have known better, since this problem is a dangerous condition to have on any car.

This is a very interesting thread, and all posters make valid points, but the truth is that in real-world off-road conditions like an overland trip through Africa or Australia, neither the FJC or the Xterra amount to much. Artificial obstacle courses never test all the capabilities of any off-road vehicle, no matter how "tough" such a course may be. The only real test is an overland trip of at least 20 000 kms, and as experience in Africa and elsewhere has shown, neither the FJC, nor the Xterra has ever completed a continental crossing. I have completed two crossings of Africa from north to south, and from south to north via different routes with a 2.5L turbo-diesel VW Amarok, and the only trouble I have ever had was flat tyres. However, as ayman_khateeb correctly points out, the driver makes 80% of the difference, meaning that an inexperienced driver is as likely to break an Amarok as easily as anything else.

Hi Baraz, I would like to tell you that additives will help, but I am afraid I can't. In fact, since we don't know yet what the problem is, putting additives that thin out oil can actually do more harm than good. If, as I suspect, you have a bearing problem, the additives will reduce the oil's lubricating ability, which can destroy the engine before you have an opportunity to identify the problem. As I said before, Jeeps are known for their main bearing issues, so it will really help me to help you identify the problem if you could answer all of the questions in my prevous post. Moreover, if I were you, I would hold off on using any additives until you know what the problem is. By the way, do you have petrol or diesel engine, and can you tell me what specific engine you have? This is important, since some petrol engines develop knocks when they have the wrong oil. The wrong oil in V6 Jeep engine can also destroy the valve lifters, timing chains, tensioners, and chain guides, which means that this type of repair is very, very expensive.

Hi Baraz, I would like to tell you that additives will help, but I am afraid I can't. In fact, since we don't know yet what the problem is, putting additives that thin out oil can actually do more harm than good. If, as I suspect, you have a bearing problem, the additives will reduce the oil's lubricating ability, which can destroy the engine before you have an opportunity to identify the problem. As I said before, Jeeps are known for their main bearing issues, so it will really help me to help you identify the problem if you could answer all of the questions in my prevous post. Moreover, if I were you, I would hold off on using any additives until you know what the problem is. By the way, do you have petrol or diesel engine, and can you tell me what specific engine you have? This is important, since some petrol engines develop knocks when they have the wrong oil. The wrong oil in V6 Jeep engine can also destroy the valve lifters, timing chains, tensioners, and chain guides, which means that this type of repair is very, very expensive.

Hi derik, Did you change the oil and oil filter after you noticed an improvement? It is important to do this since engine flush thins out the oil, and you could develop serious secondary problems as a result. In my opinion though, the fact that the noise is returning means that the valve lifters are too clogged up to be freed with engine flush. The best fix for this problem would be to replace the valve lifters, and to fill the engine with synthetic oil to prevent sludge from forming again.

Hi Baraz, There are several possible causes for this tapping or knocking sound when the engine is hot, and unfortunately, being a Jeep, one of the most common causes is a problem with crankshaft bearings. However, I need a bit more information on exactly how the knock behaves, because there could be other causes as well: 1.) Does it vary with engine speed? In other words, does the knock increase in frequency as the engine speed changes? 2.) Does the knock become faster, or change in any way when you let go of the accelerator pedal? 3.) Does the oil presssure warning light ever come on, or does it take a long time to go out after starting the engine? 4.) Has the knock been getting worse lately? 5.) Did the knock begin suddenly, or did it develop over a period of time? It will help me a lot to diagnose this problem if you could answer these questions, but if possible, could you post a sound clip of the knock?

Hi Adrik, Unfortunately, Escalades are known for their bad transmissions. The problems with hard or difficult shifting is a known issue, and the problem is almost always related to the valve body. If you are not familiar with automatic transmissions, the valve body is an arrangement of valves, check valves, and other components that control the flow of fluid through the transmission to shift gears by rearranging the relationships between the various planetary gears that give a transmision "ratios" like a manual transmission. Automatic transmissions also have a clutch pack that holds the planetary gears in position while the transmission is in any given gear. These clutch packs are engaged and disengaged by hydraulic pressure from the pump in the transmission, but the actual circuits that control the movement of the clutch packs are controlled and regulated by small valves in the valve body. With Escalades (and other GM transmisions), some of these valve sometimes stick halfway open or closed, which means that the clutch packs often do not fully release to allow the planetary gears to change position relative to each other, and it is this what you are hearing when you say you hear a scratching or grating sound. In effect, the transmission is still in gear (or neutral), but because the clutches are still partially engaged, it is often impossibe to move the selector lever without breaking something in the transmission. The problem is that this kind of problem can appear suddenly. The transmision may be fine for years, but the next time you want to engage a gear manually, it does not work, just like you are describing. However, fixing the issue is not always as easy as replacing the fluid, since the valve that is sticking sometimes has to be freed by hand. This is not always the case though, and a fluid replacement might fix the issue, but don't bank on it. If a fluid replacement does not fix the problem, you may have to replace the transmission because repairs are almost just as expensive as a replacement. Moreover, if the technician repairing your transmission is not an expert, chances are excellent that you will end up experiencing other issues when you get your car back. The transmission could be noisy, not shift correctly, or not shift at all, so you may want to consider replacing it instead of repairing it.

The problem is not the fact that there are Ford parts in your Mazda, but rather that the mechanics did a poor job when they replaced the clutch. There are no "Ford", or "Mazda" parts. Clutch manufacturers make clutches that are used in many different vehicles, Ford and Mazda included, but without knowing what brand of clutch was fitted, it is difficult to say for certain what the problem is in this case. However, there are several possible reasons why the clutch is slipping now: 1.) The mechanics did not resurface the flywheel. When a clutch slips, the flywheel overheats, which causes the surface to become glazed. Glazed flywheel surfaces are too smooth for the clutch friction linings too "grip" the flywheel, hence the slippage. 2.) The mechanics did not replace the pressure plate. The spring tension in a pressure plate diminishes over time, so when only the clutch plate is replaced, the pressure plate is not strong enough to prevent the new clutch plate from slipping on the flywheel, and especially if the flywheel was not resurfaced. 3.) There may be oil on the new clutch. It often happens that when the crankshaft mainbearing oil seal leaks, oil eventually works its way onto the clutch, causing slippage. It also often happens that mechanics are too lazy to fix the oil leak, so even if they replaced the clutch as a complete kit, it will start slipping as soon as oil comes into contact with it. 4.) The mechanics damaged the clutch when they fitted the transmission. It often happens that the transmission is shaken around very violently by inexperienced mechanics when they refit the transmission. When this happens, the springs that control backlash in the clutch plate can be damaged, which can cause the new clutch to start slipping after a few days. 5.)The mechanics fitted a poor quality clutch. There are many clutch brands on the market that are extremely low quality, and it often happens that mechanics fit these clutches to increase their profits. The life times of some of these poor quality clutches can be measured in minutes, so it is very likely that you have one of these clutches in your car now. 6.) The mechanics fitted a rebuilt clutch, with the same results as point #5. These are the most common causes of premature clutch failures, regardless of the make or brand of car. All clutches work in the same way, and if I were you, I would go back to the garage that replaced the clutch, and insist that they fix the problem. All reputable clutches are also have warranties, irresepective of where in the world they are fitted, so insist on the problem being fixed under warranty conditions.

Hi Swaraj, Honda does not have a reputation for bad brakes, and I think the problem here is that the normal, stock pads and rotors are not designed for the way you drive. You say that you have a habit of driving fast, so I think you must upgrade to better pads, and perhaps drilled rotors that don't get as hot as the stock rotors. Stock brakes should last for anything between 50K and 60K kilometres, but if they overheat just once in that time, their life can be reduced by as much as 50% or more. However, competion-grade brake pads don't work well unless they are hot, and the hotter they are, the beter they work. This does not make them suitable for normal city driving, so you must look for pads that are able to handle high temperatures better than stock pads, but that at the same time, don't require the very high temperatures competion pads need to work. There are many upgrade kits available, but they are always expensive, so it depends on how much you are able to spend on higher quality pads and rotors. Rotors that are drilled work well because the holes, and the pattern of the holes prevent the pads from building up a glazed layer. This layer prevents the pads from working properly, which in turn, causes the rotors to overheat, which causes a hard, glazed layer to develop on the rotors, further reducing the effectiveness of the brakes. Remember though that drilled rotors do not work well with stock pads, because the formulation of stock pads is not compatible with the material used to make upgraded rotors. The manufacturers of upgraded rotors all recommend specific pads to be used with their rotors, so check with rotor manufacturers on the right pads to get. With the correct combination of rotors and pads, the brakes should last for at least 40k kms, but to continue using stock parts, you will always have a problem with brakes that overheat. I hope this helps, and please keep us posted as this may help other members as well.

I am sorry to say, but the excitement escapes me.

Hi Istvan, Unfortunately Jeep is famous for the problems with the brakes on their vehicles, but in your case, can you supply more information for me to help you diagnose the issue? 1. Is it a diesel or gasoline engine? This is important since the brake system gets its vacuum assistance from different sources, depending on the type of engine. 2. Is the brake pedal hard? Meaning that no matter how hard you press it, the brakes don't stop the vehicle? 3. Does the brake pedal sag to the floor when you press it? 4. Do you see any warning lights on the dashboard when you press the brakes? There are many possible causes for brakes not to work, but if you can answer these questions, I will be better able to help you solve the problem.

Hi Nassif, I am sorry to say the problem you describe is a known problem on your car. You mention that your Escalade had the same problem, but this is because the driveline components on the Escalade are the same as those on your CTS. Yuu don't mention if the problem is worst in second gear, but this is usually the case. Nonetheless, the problem is caused by tires that are not exactly the same size, or tyres and wheels that are not exactly alingned. Any difference in tire diameters or rolling resitance causes the transfer case on AWD systems to partially engage, which causes a rumbling, whining, or sometimes a whistling noise in second gear, but it could occur in other gears as well, and sometimes in all gears depending on how engaged the transfer case is. In some cases, the noise is accompanied by a vibration, which is the result of the drive line being only partially engaged. The thing to do is to check your tyres for any sign of uneven wear, but also check that all the tyres are exactly the same diameter. If for instance only the front or rear tyres were recently replaced, it is possible that there is a size difference between the tyres on the front and rear axles. This will cause noise you describe, because the wheels are rotating at diferent speeds, which causes the transfer case to partialy engage. Replacing all four tyres at the same time is often the only way to fix this problem, but do not replace any more mechanical components before you are sure the tyres are all the same size, type, tread pattern, and inflated to exatly the same pressure. Infation differences effectively change a tyre's rolling resistance and and circumference, which can also cause this issue. However, if the tyres are exactly the same and the noise/vibration is still present, it is possible that the tranfer case has suffered some mechanical damage already, and the only way to fix this is to replace it. I hope this helps, and please keep us posted since other members may have the same problem.

Hi Emman, I am afraid that offroad driving is not the cause of the paint peeling problem. Hyundai has had problems with bad paint jobs from as long ago as 2002, but to date, has not issued a recall notice anywhere in the world. This is a problem in all markets where Hyundai has a presence, and it seems to be either related to the way the paint was applied, or the preparation of the primer before the colour coats were applied. To my knowledge, Hyundai has not repaired any of their vehicles with this problem, and the best advice I have for you is to obtain legal advice, or join a lobby group to try and force Hyundai to fix the problem. However, this has not worked in any market that I am aware of, and since your vehicle is out of warranty, I think you are in for an uphill battle to get this resolved. Good luck with though, and please keep us posted.

Hi kadar, There are many possible reasons why any car can start jerking, but you don't provide a lot of information, so I will mention the most common causes. 1,) Faulty fuel pump. If a pump works erratically for any reason, the fuel pressure can sometimes drop to below the level required for the injectors to work. 2.) Bad connections on the battery can also cause jerking because the power supply to the engine is interrupted when contact between the battery and the battery cable is lost. 3.) Broken hoses in the vacuum system can also cause jerking because the engine may get too much air at times. 4.) One or more spark plugs may be failing, which will also cause jerking. 5.) One or more spark plug wires may be failing, causing jerking when the power to some spark plugs is interrupted. 6.) One or more fuel injectors may be clogged, dirty, or defective, which will cause jerking when some cylinders are starved of fuel. 7.) One, or more sensors on the engine may be defective, which can cause jerking when the ECU gets incorrect signals. The most common sensors to fail are the crank angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, mass airflow meter, throttle position sensor, and manifold pressure sensor. All of the above are only educated guesses, since you did not provide specific information. However, I would suggest you take the car to a good repair shop to have a full OBD II diagnostic check performed to find the exact cause of the problem, but there is a good chance that the repairs will cost more than the 3000 dhs you save on the purchase price. I would rather pay a little more for a good Camry, than try to save a few bucks by buying a car that may be very expensive to fix.