Barry

You made a very good point in your last paragraph. Where im from, people (and I mean car people who are into tuning) are all into remapping their brand new diesel golfs, sciroccos etc. Get big torque, sure I get it. I went through a phase of buying mk2 polos before I left home. The last one (number 7) was a low miles green 89 breadvan model. When I was sitting at home watching tv I’d walk to the window and look at it and smile. It wasn’t fast, 1043cc, but every time I got into it, I had the biggest smile on my face. I owned it, I wasn’t making crippling payments on it ever month, it cost me 3 days wages. And it worked fine. All I had to do was change a carburettor gasket and it drove as new. My current car at home is a 1990 Peugeot 205. Pretty standard but I fitted a 2.1 turbo Diesel engine from a 406, added bigger injector nozzles, mechanical fuel pump from a Citroen bx, turbo from the new Renault espace 3.0 v6, gearbox from Citroen xantia. The whole build cost around £1,000, like 5k dhs. Took the car from 60bhp to 250bhp. Rolls coal like a boss and will embarrass many new Audi’s at the traffic lights. 250bhp in an 800kg car is nothing to be sniffed at. The only problem I have is that it snaps driveshafts regularly, they weren’t built for it. It’s safely stored at home and my next plan is to add nitrous to it. It’s a shame I can’t bring it here because the steering wheel is on the wrong side.

I always loved the Z cars but the guys a bit older than me who remembered them when new told me they were rotten after 3-4 years.

Any decent mechanic will be able to work on it but parts are expensive in UAE. I remember working on one maybe a year ago and the brake pads were over 700.

I used to work for seagate manufacturing HDDs. 12 hour shifts, random drug tests, managers with no knowledge of the product, it was no fun. The day the factory got shipped off to Malaysia was one of the happiest days of my life.

EGT is more relevant in Diesel engines, particularly turbo diesels than it is in petrol. I wouldn’t rely too much on EGT gauge for AFR. If you want accurate information it’s better to fit a wideband AFR sensor and gauge. RE the sludge, I would put a little bit of paraffin in the engine oil, run it for 10 minutes and drain it while it’s still hot. Repeat as necessary. You can buy bottles of engine flush but it’s basically paraffin with a fancy label.

The J in Toyota FJ, BJ etc actually stands for Jeep.

I prefer driving old cars, as odd as that may sound. The noise, the smells, having a good upper body workout when you’re trying to parallel park. I can see why people drive modern stuff but it doesn’t appeal to me so much, it all feels too clinical and safe. My main gripe with older cars is that I usually end up buying some oddball that’s there’s only a handful left and I can never find parts easily.

JUST FOUND THIS ONE http:/ /forum.retro-rides.org/thread/197444/1979-toyota-corolla-liftback-te51

Ok, let's see the showroom open and the "cars" on the road then. Then we'll see what's happening. Give me a financial backer I'll build a one off 10,000 BHP super car and 8x8 that will beat the devel cars into submission but it means nothing when you produce a single prototype and aren't supplying to customers.

/pedant hat on Freon, also known as CFC12 or R12 hasn't been used in cars since 1993 because it was a major cause of the hole in the ozone layer. Anything 94- uses H134a/R134a. If anyone tells you they are putting Freon in your car, question their technical ability. /Pedant hat off Be careful with water leaks in the M/N62 series engines. Sounds like you got very lucky. They are very prone to overheating damage requiring the heads and block to be skimmed. Hoses do fail sometimes but after replacement, I would look into if there's any pressure issues that caused the hose to fail. Also, very good advice to wait for an engine to cool before you add any cool fluids to it. Basic physics, metal expands and contracts. If cold water hits part of a hot engine, it can cause that part of the engine to cool down faster than the surrounding area which can cause it to crack.

To a certain extent, without meaning to be crude, what you say is true. Lotus are all about the engineering rather than brute power. Small, light and fast, rather than powerful and boatlike.

Lotus are currently in the process of relaunching in Dubai. They have acquired a new showroom and workshop. I am involved in the redesign and marketing. Hush hush, just wait and see.....

I'm sure we have all heard of this car. I saw it up and close at the last Dubai international motor show and it looked like a hyper car, But..... 5007hp? Why 5007? Most Dynos can't measure more than 2500. There are no real videos of this thing running, no proper videos of it on the road, no proper Dyno videos. Is the devel 16 a scam?

Mohsen is based in al Quoz. When you visit his shop, call into the neighbouring ghost tints workshop on the left side and ask for Barry. We have free coffee 😁

I recommend you change the belt, 2 idler pulleys and tensioner. Changing the water pump is optional. It rarely fails but it's better to spend a few extra dirhams when everything is stripped back that far already. No point paying 2 sets of labour charges. As for which belt you use, yes the original Mitsubishi belt is good but don't discount a belt made by gates. Gates are one of the leading belt manufacturers and supply belts for new cars. You just don't see it because it's labeled differently. And yes 1.5-2k is a good price. The dealer charges 7k. The parts cost between 5-600, of course the mechanic is entitled to his markup, but the dealer price includes 5k of bs.

Ok, I'm going to throw this out there. There is no such thing as a 5k service. I started a massive thread on this. Mitsubishi recommended an oil and filter change every 10k. Sorry to say, but you have been scammed. There is no 40k service in the Mitsubishi schedule. If anyone has told you otherwise, they are trying to rape your wallet. Below I will post the official Mitsubishi service schedule, direct from the factory, Once a year or 10,000 km: Change engine’s oil and filter (1) Replace air filter if used in dusty area Inspect coolant hoses Inspect brake hoses Inspect brakes – discs and pads, replace if necessary. Rotate tires Inspect ball joints and steering components for grease leaks Inspect drive shafts boot for tears and grease leaks Grease the propeller shafts joints. Adjust the valves (diesel engines only) Check the differential oil level Check the transfer oil level Check the engine driving belt – replace if needed (dry/cracked) Inspect fuel system 3.2 diesel engine – check the upper timing guide Every 2 years or 25,000 km (which ever comes first): Change automatic transmission lubricate and filter (2) Change manual transmission lubricate. (3) Change transfer oil (4) Change differentials oil (5) Drain, wash and refill the cooling system (with new coolant) Inspect spark plug cables Replace air filter Every 5 years or 100,000 km (whichever comes first) Replace timing belt (If any) Replace spark plugs Replace spark plug cables This is all information copied and pasted from the Mitsubishi factory service schedule. You can google it if you want. Don't fall for dealer scams telling you this needs done and that needs done. If they tell you it will invalidate your warranty, it's bullshit. This is the official Mitsubishi service schedule. If the dealer has a problem with it, tell them ok, I'll ask Japan. They will soon change their tune.

Goodness gracious me

@treks write a book. I will buy it.

I have never seen a header tank explode. There must have been some serious pressure in the tank for that to happen. Hard plastic tanks can age and develop micro cracks which weakens them and they can leak so I surmise if there was enough pressure it could explode a worn tank. My course of action would be to replace the header tank, refill and bleed the system and do some basic tests. If the engine overheated to that extent, the first test I would do is a sniff test to check for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. You can buy sniff test kits cheap online. It will tell you if you have an issue with the head gasket or a crack in the cylinder letting exhaust gases into the coolant.

I guess this isn't a thing in Dubai, but has anyone ever had parts stolen from their car when it was parked? I had an incident in Ireland. Peugeot 306 D-Turbo Phase 2. Ran out of fuel half a mile from my house so left the car, walked home and went to bed. Went back to get the car in the morning with a jerry can full of diesel and the front wind deflectors and full rear glass was missing. I have heard of things like this happening a lot in England. Park the car, come back, find a bare shell. Anyome got experience of this?

What platform is this on? I have Xbox 360 ATM. TBH it works fine for me. I fire it up every now and then when I'm bored to kill a bit of time but the amount of time I spend on it now doesn't warrant me spending money upgrading to Xbox One or Xbox One X. In an ideal world, I would get the newest model but with the way work is, it would be collecting dust for a lot of the time. My current racing time killers are Forza 4 and PGR4. Been playing them for a couple of years. Just about to unlock the million point picture on PGR. Outside racing, I play Tekken 6 and Halo 4. The wife plays Mortal Kombat and a few Call of Duty games but I never got into them.

The way I see it, if the manufacturer has to put a light under the bonnet for midnight inspection, then the car can't be too good 😂

That is an option but this is an old laptop I’m trying to save from the scrap heap so I don’t want to spend any money until I’m sure what’s wrong. If it’s a hardware issue, I’ll open it up and see if it’s repairable. Can’t be any harder than opening an ecu and changing a few transistors right?

I’ve done a bit of research on this. Many cars came with a light under the bonnet as standard, Grand Cherokee Porsche 944 Austin Princess Rover SD1 Datsun 240Z Porsche 996 Alfa RZ Ford Cortina Mk3 Early Corvettes Volvo 240 Alfa Sprint Porsche 986 Jaguar XJ40 Volvo 740 Celica Supra Early 7 series BMW There are many more. These are just a few examples I’ve turned up.

After running, sudo aptitude -y purge alsa-base && sudo aptitude -y install destop Command wasn’t recognised. barry@barry-VGN-CS26G-R:~$ sudo aptitude -y purge alsa-base && sudo aptitude -y install ubuntu-desktop [sudo] password for barry: sudo: aptitude: command not found barry@barry-VGN-CS26G-R:~$ sudo alsa force-reload, there were no modules to load barry@barry-VGN-CS26G-R:~$ sudo alsa force-reload Unloading ALSA sound driver modules: (none loaded). Loading ALSA sound driver modules: (none to reload). So I ran, sudo apt-get remove –purge alsa-base pulseaudio Then, sudo apt-get install alsa-base pulseaudio Then pulseaudio --start This is the result barry@barry-VGN-CS26G-R:~$ pulseaudio --start N: [pulseaudio] main.c: User-configured server at {7a827c7605a7429187e4ce7ff10aa19a}unix:/run/user/1000/pulse/native, which appears to be local. Probing deeper. barry@barry-VGN-CS26G-R:~$ After restart (I restarted between all 3 procedures) I lost access to system settings. After a bit of research, I found out to use apt instead of aptitude so reinstalled. After reset, I got system settings back again. I tried sudo alsa force-reload, but again, no modules to load. I also tried pulseaudio –start but got the same result as before. So now I’m back at square one. Audio being sent to dummy output. I’m thinking to do a fresh install but I’m not confident as I think it will just give the same problem.