Barry

Do you mean it takes a while for the engine to kick in or does the engine kick in but it takes the transmission a while to start moving? Have you had it scanned on VCDS to see if there are any codes?

Apple have finally announced they are working on a self driving car for the first time. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-38199880

Generally, there are 3 rings. The top one is the primary compression ring which holds the compression in the cylinder when firing. In the middle there is a secondary compression ring which acts as a backup for the primary compression ring. The secondary compression ring will be a bit tighter than the primary ring to help with holding the compression in. The bottom ring is the oil ring. This distributes oil right around the circumference of the base of the piston which lubricates and helps to keep the piston cool. The oil ring also prevents oil from travelling up into the combustion chamber. Think of a piston ring a bit like a round spring. It has to be compressed to fit into the cylinder. When fitted, they spring out and press against the cylinder wall and create the seal. If they were made the same size as the cylinder, they would simply slide up and down and not do anything. Hopefully that makes sense to you.

Which software are you planning to use? Torque is a funky little phone app.

Horrible. It doesn't look special at all. Just looks like a mess.

This should be an interesting one when it comes out. Always loved Supras. Had a chance to buy one dirt cheap from a garage I worked in and always kicked myself that I said no. Stupid british government and their petrol tax. Also had a run in a modified one that was pushing 700 Bhp with nos. that was an interesting drive.

A pleasure to meet you too @Rahimdad. A true gentleman.

@desertdude are you sure? I haven't seen a carb as standard on anything since the early 90s. If anything, it's possible to be SPI which kinda looks like a carb but I'd put money on it being MPI. @naeem you need to check the basic things first like spark plugs and air filter. It could also be a problem with a weak fuel pump. There are a lot of possible answers but the best one is to find a good mechanic and take the car to him.

Assalamualaikum habibi

Let's probe @DiamondDallas 😬

Sent. Let us know what you think.

If anyone has heard of the new drivetribe site. It's run by Clarkson, Hammond and May of Top Gear fame, now of The Grand Tour. I have an exclusive invite code. Requires Facebook for registration though and I don't have Facebook and have no intentions of signing up. If anyone wants the code shout out and you can get exclusive access to the site. First come first served.

The second and the fourth one are kinda hot 😊 Back home we brake test tailgaters.

In my opinion, it's never ok to use the hard shoulder for driving. It's for broken down cars only and anyone driving on it to save a few minutes on a journey is extremely selfish.

Nothing mechanical, only music ones.

Tyre pressures are usually on a sticker inside the door or inside the fuel flap. As said, it's probably better just to follow what the manufacturer recommends. Although if you're running, aftermarket wheels or a different size of tyres from standard, the manufacturer standards don't apply. If you put a couple of extra psi in from standard, it can help to increase fuel mileage but at the expense of grip. Conversely, if you let the pressure down a bit, you will have better grip but less mileage. Putting more air in the tyres makes it easier to do huge burnouts too 😊

Be aware that many of the cheaper scan tools will only show generic obd codes related to the engine. They will not be able to read many of the electrical systems of the car.

The coolant sensor sends a signal to the cars ecu to help it determine fuelling. A faulty sensor can causing misfuelling can bring on all sorts of issues, some being, high fuel consumption fouled spark plugs damaged catalytic converter

Flushing with gas is a waste of time. You never get everything out, especially if you're cleaning through the valves. The only real way to do it is to take everything apart and clean all the parts individually using a solvent cleaner like the one below and dry air. Ordinary compressor air is no good as it contains water, however air from a paint booth which is fitted with an air dryer would be fine. It's important to clean the system after changing a compressor. You wouldn't believe how many particles are introduced into the system from a dying compressor until you run solvent through and see the colour of it when it comes out again. Cleaning only one part such as the condenser is also a waste of time because as soon as you recharge the system and operate it, all the crap from the rest of the system will contaminate it again.

If you're buying a "sheepers" edition, make sure to do a carfax check online. A lot of those "sheepers" editions are write offs, water and accident damage etc brought in from America and rebuilt. You might be able to take a tape measure and find one side of the car an inch shorter than the other or other similarly crazy stuff.

I disagree. Oil changes are one of the simplest things you can do. Check out this guide I wrote on the advice section, There are lots of good advices on that section of the forum, have a look and see what you can learn, watch videos on YouTube. You can learn a lot of theory on the internet but you need to start doing things and getting your hands dirty to learn properly. If you have a tame mechanic, ask them if you can watch them work and get them to explain things to you. A lot of mechanics won't do this so if you find a friendly one, take care of him.

I second that the pentastar engine is best avoided. I wouldn't touch one with somebody else's barge pole.

1:20 this is the reality of it. How do you spell doomed?

Again, pity it's such short notice and I already have plans or I would have loved to go