Mario Cornejo

This is interesting and good to know @Gaurav as I remember I started disconnecting air bags based on a recommendation I got in an IM drive long time ago.

Hi @DP1011 - my understanding is that a Kill Switch is not stock for most cars, and therefore must be installed. What you need to make sure is that you select a place (garage, shop, etc) with someone with good knowledge, or be present as they do it and ask the right questions. It is easy to mess this up or have a low quality installation that might pose a hazard, this is valid for all cars.

Hello @DP1011 Car model: Nissan Patrol Y61 kill Switch Button ( if yes, where to locate) - Yes, panel next to gear shift Airbags turn off button (if yes where to locate) : No, I remove the air-bag fuse. Other comments : I also disconnect the traction control, which Nissan calls VDC, which you need to repeat if (a) car engine is switched off, or you have shifted from 4L to 4H. The air-bag fuse is disconnected as the system might be triggered by a sudden fall or bumping into “sand-step” with force.

Hi @Alphin Aloor - I have done the compressor + tank set up in two flavors which I can explain later. But in short: 1. Compressor installed under passenger seat or, if a SWB Y61 then at a space in the left side at the back (this space is not available if it is a LWB Y61) 2. Tank installed under the car if a SWB Y61 or under the driver’s seat if a LWB Y61 (space is not available under the car in LWB because of the fuel sub-tank) 3. Air outlet located outside of the car - in wheel bays or rear bumper What this set up allows you is, as Zed mentioned, running air-tools, and you can also switch-on the compressor while you are driving towards the exit. The compressor will shut off automatically once the air in the tank reaches 150 psi approximately (all ARB compressors have a small manifold and an cut-off switch rated at 150 psi, the cut-off switch can be replaced if damaged or by another at a different pressure rating), and the air outlet outside of the car will allow you to keep doors closed and bugs away . When all tires are inflated back to your desired pressure, you turn off the compressor and can use the air in tank to blow off sand. The setup I have in my car, a Y61 SWB, more or less allows me to inflate four ~33” tires, from 10psi to 35psi, in almost 5 minutes and also allows me to run air tools, it consists of two ARB dual compressors and a 20l air tank. Hope this information helps.

Hehe! Excuse the confusion. Indeed the axle issue is possible on Y61s only, not in Y62s. Cheers!

@vince6485 If the car was used for off roading, then there is a slight probability of having a bent front axle. So, in addition to Fred's suggestions, if the front axle is not reinforced, then have it checked. Do this as the last option, and get the opinion at two places. Hope this helps.

Amazing! Benjamin, congratulations, very well deserved. Keep the momentum, keep moving!

Hi @Varun Mehndiratta I unfortunately will have to withdraw from the drive. Wish you all a fun, challenging, fast/fluid paced, and, above all, safe drive. It is very hot out there, so don't forget to check your cars 😉!

Yalla! Don’t think much, just get a Y61 VTC and khalas! You will be happy in the desert and on road with it, chances are you get to be unhappy sometimes when you think about what you spent in mods, but most of the time you will be happy I can assure you that My two cents on Y61: 1. Less electronics - less points of failure. 2. Parts - you can find them plenty: new, used, scrap yard, grocery in the corner, you name it. 3. Power - I managed to drive in terrains considered challenging (Qua, Bu Tais, Liwa)before installing any mods such as headers or cold air filter, the car did well, and had enough power for self-recoveries and to help recover other cars. 4. Protection - this applies to any car: skid plates (front and rear), roll cage (after installing headers/CAI ) 5. Suspension - this is key, good springs, shocks, sway bar/links, to help you control rebound and not lose traction. 6. Temperature - manageable, just ensure you check your car coolant before drives. 7. Wheels / Tires - choose well, lighter is better, but be mindful of tire wall wear; wheel offset close to 0 is best. Hope to see you soon in sand!

Congratulations @DP1011 see you in the sand!

Hi everyone, wow! what a morning! a solid convoy and an interesting area that tested our skills, from dealing with technical areas, soft sand, climbs, switches and more. A big shout out to @GauravSoni for hosting the drive, it is always a pleasure to attend the drives you organize. Everyone drove amazingly well: @Gertjan, @Jaro Tuzinsky, @Waqas Parvez, @DP1011, @ASAD., @Benjamin, @Chris Wing and @Zed Unfortunately @Vaibhav had to leave early, I am sure I echo everyone in hoping you get the issues resolved with your Jeep. If the issues persist, then remember there must be a VTC with your name somewhere in the UAE 😎💪! Wish you all a great rest of the week! @Gertjan thank you very much for the pictures and documenting the drive! Superstar! 😁

Not even a minute and got full within 30 seconds! Amazing! 😂

Hey guys - first of all we are all grateful that @Gerrit Bus was not harmed, I hope we see him back on the sand soon. It was a fluid drive up and everyone was driving beautifully before the unfortunate events, and it cannot remain without acknowledging the efforts that everyone gave to recover Gerrit’s car and then to help me with the tire issue. Thank you everyone, I truly appreciate it! Until we see each other again, I want to wish you all a great week ahead.

Difficult to tell with all the rattle and shaking in my in my car Jokes apart - I have not experienced this scenario, what can happen though is like with any other wheel you can bend parts of it, in a beadlock wheel notably the outer rim is usually prone to it. Other issues I’ve heard about are finding a jammed bolt, but this is something you can mitigate through proper maintenance, for example when assembling the wheels the first time, and every time you service them, request to apply anti seize lubricant to the bolts, Coppaslip or Loctite copper grease are examples …I carry my own in case the garage has run out of it and I also make sure they use a torque wrench, at the recommended torque setting for the wheel, instead of using a power tool.

I think they are worth it 😇 … peace of mind during my solo drives. Maintenance is not as hard, I check and tighten the beadlocks from time to time on my own with a torque wrench, and no issues when renewing the registration. Just my experience so far Cheers!

Hi @GauravSoni - confirmed!

Oh! An edit to my post: the size I went for is 285/70R17. In both cars (LWB and SWB) I had to remove the mud flaps and in the SWB I had to cut the inner corner where the front mud flaps are attached. Regarding tire rubbing, this leads into another interesting conversation : suspension etc. In my case I have a 2.5” lift in the SWB and what I’ve done is add longer bumpstops and tested the shocks setting to prevent the tire from rubbing while driving in the desert. On a normal road, I can keep the shocks in the softest setting and won’t experience any rubbing. The LWB has a 2” lift and Yokohama LT285/70R17 on stock wheels, and no issues at all with regards to rubbing.

There is another brand you should consider - BF Goodrich Trail Terrain, which is what I have in my Y61 SWB too, not too heavy of a tire. The size I went for is 285/75R17. Prior to these I had Cooper, were heavy, and then Geolandar A/T G015, walls starting showing signs of cracking very soon. Now, if your car is manual, then you can possibly dismiss the fact of getting heavy or wider tires, because the end gear ratio of a Y61 with MT is 4.375 vs AT 3.545, therefore it will handle those tires better, you could even think of getting Wrangler Duratrac

Hi Asif, I won't be able to attend the drive. Everyone have a safe one and lots of fun.

There is a good old post about securing items in trunk. The post is in the X Terra forum, here is the link Cheers!

Hi Gary - I've done this before, all parts were ordered through Amazon (.ae or .com depending on availability). Here is a rough list of parts: - Flexzilla hose 1/4" Inches, 25 foot long - 3 of them, of which you use 2 as main lines and the 3rd hose you will use to built two short whips of about 5 foot long. - 4 Closed air chucks - 1/4" Brass ball valve - Air splitter 1/4" NPT 3-Way air manifold - Barbed T-couplers (you can get these in Speedex) - Loctite 542 Thread sealant 50ml - Metal brass pipe fittings and couplers 1/4" or Color Connex coupler & Plug Kit I reused an analog gauge from a unused inflator, I prefer analog as I don't have to deal with batteries, my recommendation on this is to choose a 1/4 NPT lower mount gauge with a range of 0 to 60 psi, and 2.5' to 4' face. If you go for a digital one, then it is best to go to amazon .com and choose one, I like the one that Measureman sells for $12.97. For my system I used an ARB dual piston compressor and a 4 liter ARB air tank with an air outlet located outside of the car and covered with a dust cap. But perhaps one of the most important parts is, when installing the compressor, ask the guys in the garage to explain how will they run the electrical lines and air pipes (if any) and show you images of previous works they've done. I've had bad experiences of garages doing extremely bad and unsafe electric installations, but there is one where I just had my recent air system installed and they did, in my opinion, a very neat job.

Wonderful news @Ale! It has been great attending your drives, in particular the Long Range Desert Group 🦂 and exploration drives! Gracias!

@Frederic how are you doing? I just noticed you are now driving a Patrol! Let’s plan a theme drive, Patrols only, maybe also request a Cafu tanker wait for us at the exit 😆 Welcome to the club of proud Y61 owners and shrinking wallets! Looking forward to tomorrow’s drive.

Hi @Frederic yes it does, in a Y61 it connects to all these ECUs: BCM, Engine, ABS, TPMS and SRS. I just to check TPMS using the app "MotorData OBD", however I removed the TPMS sensors after installing Apex deflators but will get them back on with a special bracket sold by Apex too. Once back I will play with Torque app as you suggest.

For some reason, not every OBD scanner reads all the Y61 sensors, for instance oil temp, transmission temp (in case of AT), fuel level, fuel pressure etc. I got this OBD ( https://www.amazon.ae/gp/product/B07JFRFJG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and use it with several apps I've found, but still I am in the look out for a Y61 friendly device In the meantime, I comfortably rely on gauges and lights on the dashboard. @imranaasghar81 - regarding your question about lights, check out Dragon Mart, there are a couple of stores where you will find interesting accessories, and lights among them. Hope this helps!