treks

I agree, I can't think of a single practical advantage this set-up could possibly have. I'm also thinking that this was a proof-of-concept design that was dropped when the designers realized that the whole thing was more trouble than it was worth.

Low oil pressure will illuminate the warning light regardless of whether you are in Drive or Reverse. I agree with @desertdude, this is more like to be a ground or wiring issue than anything else.

All of this is true but at the time this thread first came up, I was too lazy to type out a long post.

OK, I'll go all in and say that a fully working, and road legal version of this monstrosity will never see the light of day.

I'll see your Meh!, and raise you a couple of Pftts.

Especially the bit about the "black part of the crankshaft". I should remember that one...

Correct.

It will just come back. There is no way that disc run-out can be polished away.

This describes the difference between mechanics and professional mechanics. Being a professional is NOT all about how much you know- it's is ALL about having the best interests of your customers foremost in your mind. The doctrine of "Do No Harm" counts for professional mechanics as much as it does for doctors.

I've always found this set up weird, but somehow they go it to work based on the firing order, which limits scavenging during valve overlap. I agree though, one barrel for each cylinder makes more sense.

It is unlikely that the springs will settle. They were made to support a specific load for many years without sagging or losing their tension, so if they do "settle", it means that they have lost some of their temper, and therefore, their ability to support the load they were designed to support.

It's a question of what comes first- A) the springs settling, or B), Gaurav's spinal vertebrae giving out...

Is this Chevy a project? If it is, the first thing I would do is to check and rebuild the carb spindles, and then fabricate a proper linkage between the carbs to remove all free play. Looking at this setup, there is no way you will ever get those carbs synchronized, let alone balanced- even with calibrated vacuum gauges.

Were there Chinese contractors involved in the development/building of Sports City? That might explain the manholes...

Some ideas- Excessive disc run out caused by warped or deformed discs. In some cases, this can be caused by over tightening wheel nuts/bolts. Worn steering/suspension parts such as ball joints, tie rod ends, steering rack bushes, and control arm bushes.

Every workshop should have at least one resident cat.

Bad ignition coil(s) will set misfire codes, but I do agree with you about the cause involving bad driveshaft(s).

I'll take your word for it, then.

I agree with @Barry- the types of fire extinguishers people keep in their cars are mostly absolutely useless, hence the quote from Gaurav's post. Moreover, once a car catches fire, it hardly matters what caused the fire, and debating the percentages of possible causes becomes a useless exercise. I have like @Barry seen cars catch fire, and in my experience, the only thing you can do when your car catches fire is to get out of it, and away from it as fast as you can- taking only your children with you if they are in the car. Doing something stupid like opening the bonnet to see what caused the fire only feeds the fire with oxygen, so don't do it. If the fire starts in the passenger compartment, and the windows are closed, get out, and shut the doors to starve the fire of oxygen. If the windows are open, get out, and get away as fast as you can- again taking only your children with you. In short, once a car fire takes hold there is nothing you can do to stop it, but Gaurav's post contains some good advice on how to prevent your car catching fire- except the bit about car fire extinguishers being effective against electrical fires. The only time this might be true is when you can actually see and reach the fire, which is not possible if the fire starts under the dashboard, for instance.

I love learning useful phrases in new languages, but Google translate is useless in this instance..

I take your point on this...

I would not start replacing solenoids just yet. P1595 means that there are issues present in one or more circuits (as opposed to failing solenoids). However, finding this issue is PITA on Jeeps and many Chrysler products, since it involves testing the brake light circuit, and dedicated circuits between the solenoids and the PCM. To do this you need Jeep/Chrysler specific scan tool that has the ability to activate each suspect solenoid individually. If @Barry has the time, I suggest you have him do this, or if he does not have the time, to take the vehicle to the dealer. These circuits have to be tested in a particular order of steps, and if you get this order wrong, you can spend days looking for the fault and never find it. Good luck!

I agree. @Barry will probably find that at least half a dozen other Mercedes models have used the same box for donkey's years.

"Steering torque" is Mercedes-speak for excessive free play in the steering box. The adjustment you see is actually to remove steering slop, but if the gears are too worn, taking up the slack in the straight ahead position might cause the box to bind at or close to full lock. Anyway, try adjusting the box and see what happens- with some luck you might be able to remove the slop without causing binding at full lock.

...to hold things down in the Space Shuttle, and like everything else developed for the space program, it probably cost millions of dollars to design, develop, and test.