Gaurav

I suffered from this whistling too, but thanks to RTA who forced me to cover it and after that, that whistling noise is gone as it has sealed the small gap below the light and bracket. Cover cost me 60 for big light and 40 for small.

Welcome, Bilal to Carnity and to the off-road club. I had the P38 model before and the only thing you need to check is the approach and departure angle of your car. If you still have working EAS then you are good to lift two inches with a flick of a button and safe for this drive. If you shifted to springs, then do share the picture of your car front and back for me to advise you further if it's safe or not for your RR. I have tried my P38 with EAS and with springs both and it performed wonderfully as RR all-terrain response is awesome, but just you got to be careful while "going down the steep dune slowly". That's it. And off-course all other things that skumar83 mentioned - recovery points, radio, flag, and shovel are a must. And you can add more gear later as you are convinced that you will be continuing this often - Compressor, Jack, board, Tow rope etc.

I don't think you have to go that far, as I'm driving silver color with the bare minimal glare. So position it right and you will enjoy it.

I heard LLumar is good and cost-effective. In my Pajero Im using Sun Guard (400 dhs) from USA with twin layer - so-called bla bla tech and not very happy with heat rejection. It's doing the same job as 150 dhs previous tint I got. In RR, I already have some high-end tint with superb heat rejection but it's clear so I need something there with 50% tint. If you get some good deal, do share ill get my RR done as well.

From my limited experience of last season, I got the bumper one first that only helped me to enhance the headlight vision with more detailing and white light. Then I opted for the second bar on top and that made the whole world changed in night driving and boosted my confidence of night lead from 50% to 5000% literally, as I can see things well within a 500 meters like dune formation, dips, sand pattern, ridges, a soft patch in night. If you going for one, I HIGHLY suggest to go for the top one and get the biggest possible you can accommodate on top - 42 -52 Inch. Glare will be there, but try to position with the light on and without installing as to find the best place for the least amount of glare. Too back on roof, you will have bounce on roof and max light will be wasted. Too out will have light flush on bonnet and blind the driver. So before installing find that sweet spot and ask the guy to fabricate a bracket for that GOLDEN spot. For spot or spread, choose the bar that has mix of both means last 6-8 bulbs on both sides are spread and curved out and rest all 70% bulbs are spot in front. Have a look at my top bar to understand what I am saying. Last but not least go only for CREE bulbs, no matter what. They are amazingly bright than the regular ones.

Very nice find Mighty Mike and very well said Treks. As a car enthusiast's I do love manual, which is more fun and involved in driving but as per different terrain, situations and needs I'm more than happy with an Auto - which is a blessing in almost all the situations I have been into. I feel learning curve to master Auto to do anything is a lot lesser than the learning curve on the manual gearbox.

That's what I tell everyone that stick to D and control gearing with your throttle downshift in 90% of the cases, and that let relaxes the gearbox and also keep you free for other adrenal act.

Good luck and do share your experience if you remember on-time to use it.

I agree to this hands down

Nice to read all this and also nice to understand that finally, your much-awaited project car is kicking up in the background. Can't wait to see its pictures.

Thanks Barry for putting out in nice words, what I was avoiding to say without having any technical knowledge but just based on end-user experience. Second good point I also like to mention about the heat resistant is the main key for any engine oil to live or die in offroad extreme usage. The third point of that debate of winter/summer month has too little as engine inside temperature is far above 150 degrees and I'm sure at 6k rpm during off-roading same engine oil must be cooking at 200+ degree. So with those temperature Synthetic oil stand a better chance of survival than the mineral blends. And also provide consistent lubrication to all engine part when under extreme stress.

HAHAHAH, this thread becomes a can of worms now. @shadow79 this my Pajero engine head, when opened and cleaned while doing the valve replacement by the most competent mechanic here @Barry

OMG you guys are still on for this debate without understanding the base logic that there is no variables in the scenario means it's the same car, same owner, same usage, same CLEAN engine, well-taken care since 5+ years - ENOC / ADNOC oil gets dark in 1000 kms and Mobil / Castrol / Shell get dark with its age of up to 5000 - 7000 kms.

I have never heard or seen this but using my common sense if this has to work then why after pop-out in sand our perfectly balanced tires goes off-balance due to some grams or a kg of sand

@Barry also advise if removing battery terminal for few minutes to hours can help ECU forget the old settings? I read somewhere, but don't know if its true.

Well OD off actually means it will not shift to last gear no matter what, if your speed at 120 with 4/5 gear RPM stays at 2.5-3k rpm then with OD off it will jump to 4-5k rpm as now your using 3/4 gear for reaching 120 kmph speed. Apart from above main function as it says OD (Overdrive gear) Off, it also delays the shift and that's what you are actually looking for. For making Adaptive system learn, I think you drive in auto and hit the throttle hard and try to cause the delay in shifting by late throttle release as if you are racing all the time for a day or two and see if that make adaptive system learn that you are a shumarker and not Anand, lol.

Do you have O/D off button on gear lever neck on the left side? Press that, it will show an orange OD off light at the dash and delay your shifts to kick in above 3k rpm, that gives more of a sporty feel. I have that in my Pajero and I do use that option in offroad only, on the road I prefer quicker shift for a more comfy ride unless I'm racing. Not sure about Adaptive Shift control in Pajero's, isn't that all auto transmission have that these days and learn the driver style to offer the required driving experience. Few months back I was using my wifey trailblazer for a month as a daily driver and in the beginning it was so sluggish and less responsive and after a few days it turned into a monster to show where that 290 hp were hiding

@vanhack very true word of wisdom and experience buddy, totally agree.

Newer one yes, as they moved away from real offroaders to the soft-roaders segment to sell more

Totally agree Sri and that's what I meant above to be in 1st gear when needed. Btw, Xterra, Pajero, Pathy are not a rare breed but actual offroaders designed with a well-thought auto gearbox. Sorry Sertac but auto Cherokee has this weird issue I just realized it on Friday and actually understood why Manual Cherokees are expensive than Auto in that year range. It is nothing to do with actual Manual vs Auto fight, but all about bad design offered by Jeep in that year. Maybe you can research on this topic and really consider a smarter auto box from another year Cherokee if that auto box is designed with 1 and 2 in the separate selector.

Nope, that's not the case but its other way around. Just like manual gear need practice, the same goes for the auto box and an experienced driver with the auto box can do "EVERYTHING that manual can do + Do a better hill climb" Manual is good for beginners in the sand to do self-recovery by rocking and crawling out of the situations, whereas auto can do all these but need a little experience and guidance to exactly what manual gear can do.

Read the whole thread again buddy, to understand what I have been saying since page 1. You probably read it very fast - like always I'm the only one who has been fighting for the Auto box in the sand, in front of others who have never tried both in sand or at least not tried the right gearbox. I too learned from the 2006 manual Patrol - disaster gearbox who couldn't even climb big red halfway, let alone the Iftar bowl and Faya.

In all honesty, it was not a fair comparison of Auto vs Manual in last Friday hill climb. Sertac Cherokee auto box is having 1&2 together in gearstick that leaves no option for him to shift to 1st gear on the extreme long hill climb. Secondly, his car suspension really need good work, and I was losing a lot of good momentum as soon as I hit the cross track and if you remember how much struggle I have gone through the back face of Iftar bowl. Thirdly although I did climb Iftar bowl from the front, but it was in LO gear and not in High - most preferred gear for the long hill climb. Auto is best for Sand, only if the auto box offer manual shifting to 1st gear and able to hold that first gear even till 7K rpm.

Thanks, Anand, for your input and I agree BFG is very good for off-road just the heavy noise and long hill climb in the desert is an issue due to its weight.

Watch again from 11:45 - 12:26 as a bottom line and close this topic on that note - without being Einstein or a chemistry teacher.