Gaurav

I understood your concern and as per many online forums which suggest Dana 4.1 is the best for offroad, you also need to remember that Jeep has huge aftermarket parts market and they need to sell those parts by showing amazing videos. If I am in your place, I would test it for few sand off-road drives and see what diff good/bad this 29-31 is resulting and then jump to any conclusion. For the road, you can simply use the phone GPS to gauge the speed difference once and note that in mind so that you don't get fines. Remember the OEM parts that came with the vehicle may not be the best in performance, but made for best in reliability and long life usage. Switching to an aftermarket part may compromise those points to a great extent, so do it if it's an absolute necessity. If you can still climb Faya from the front like a walk in a park and from right slipface with little push, then do you really need any more upgrades......?

I totally agree, that some special need with manual or some other feature or option that existed only in import and non-gcc then it makes sense, but it shouldn't be a salvage title. And if you are a mechanic or workshop owner then buy salvage at dirt cheap and fix it yourself to proper safety standards.

Btw, while I was about to buy my Mustang, I drove one of my neighbors Mustang (US Spec) in Warqa by chance and while hitting full gas, the car does burn out very aggressive but while doing burn out car tilt on left and move fwd. I tried few times as he was my neighbor and then thought that in all 4-5 attempts I can't lose the steering control and no matter how much countersteering I correct car still tilt on left and move forward. Finally, this guy confronted that this is how the car has been behaving since he bought soon after the import and it seems some driveshaft balancing issue has not been corrected in the past. Apart from this everything is fine "bro"

If the doctor advised you to only buy that, do so as medicines are priceless. Or you can wait to find a clean one and be ready to pay an extra premium. It took me 4-5 months to find a Range without a donkey mileage and when I found it, I closed the deal in 1 hour. My biggest worry with import is the substandard repair that might cost me arm and leg after a couple of months, no matter how smartly I check or find the history but you can never find the background on how cheaply it has been repaired or how unsafe it can be for me and my family usage.

40k of 50k = 20% depreciation + no headache or fear of exploding or burning into flames due to a cheap fix 20k of 30k = 33% depreciation + 5k for bringing it back to GCC specs + repairs 20k of 35k = 42.8% depreciation overall + no peace of mind https://gulfnews.com/news/uae/transport/total-loss-cars-from-us-hurting-dubai-market-auto-traders-claim-1.1708567

I totally agree as my last car was 2012 Mustang 5.0 (GCC) and on same car I got saved by insurance reference that it is totaled car, another Mustang I was about to buy after getting tested in two places. And 5 out of my 10 friends mentioned above is driving Mustang. So buy with very long-term intentions, lol. One of the best reason to discourage non-GCC car I completely forgot to mention. If you are stuck with any rare issue or need a dealer support then the local dealer will not even look at you, let alone touching non-gcc car. I had Lexus GS430 EU spec and the car died on road without any warning, sent to Al futtaim and they didn't accept the car. Checked outside with 3-4 top notch garage, no one can diagnose. Then wrote a nasty letter to Lexus Japan and then they requested Al futtaim to attend the car and Lexus Japan supported Al Futtaim with all wiring and diagrams. Then Al futtaim figured out that immobilizer got a short circuit and resulted in total car shut off. Btw, this ordeal went for 1-2 months to resolve the wiring and got my car back. People here make endless stories that dealers scare and spread these stories to sell their GCC cars and often times import car dealer or owner swears million times that this car running without any issue, bla bla. To be honest local car dealers here are not evil, just to touch non-gcc car as they didn't make a profit on those cars but they are genuinely stuck with no wiring and diagrams support. And the moment they touch the car then it becomes their responsibility so they steer clear from that unwanted risk and problems, whose trace program itself can cost them a fortune to diagnose and fix.

Barry when you buy one and drive for a year or two and sell it successfully then you will go through the real learning process. I can go on with this topic until my fingers bleed, but I'll keep it short: Weather specs are only one worry and yes it does require alteration and modification and after that, you can safely enjoy non-gcc specs car in UAE. This process if you are not highly educated and mechanically well off then workshop here will rip you off and you will finish all saving you made by buying the non-gcc specs in one go. Secondly, as desertdude mentioned, all imports are either flood damage or accident written off, again you should have a real keen eye to identify a clean car among the bunch of lemons. And trust me used car dealer here are so smart in covering things up that even the seasoned eyes can get fooled. I got saved twice purely by good luck, when all my experience and knowledge said its cleaned and even the testing guys generated a clean title report. Lucky while getting the insurance come to know that it has been written off by Al Tayer and that's why no guarantee on 4 years model who supposed to have 5 years guarantee. Workmanship here to hide things can get to real hideous level sometimes in the automotive industry. So take no chance in such pass the bug game, or else you might get stuck with that bug for LONG LONG time. I know more than 10 friends who are still driving import purely because they can't sell it. Last but not least is the terrible resale value, as they depreciate faster than GCC cars and after getting it cheap, you will really regret selling at even cheaper resale value, as the market is always flooded with these imports and people are always desperate to knock them off and used car dealers are very competitively priced to drive these car prices lower every month due to endless supply from abroad. Long story short, I highly advise everyone that pay 10-15% extra and buy GCC cars, so you will enjoy the ownership and you will be able to sell it off at a fair price after you are done.

Very wise decision to stick to GCC, that's what we all believe in too here as we have learned by burning our fingers few times.

Your single and MOST important recovery tool that can help you get unstuck 75% of the time is the good full-size shovel. Not the foldable one, not the small spoon size for decoration, but the one laborer uses with a metal scoop and wooden or metal handle for proper displacement of sand. If you are lone surfer then I will highly recommend carrying two shovels, one with normal length and another one with longer length in case you need to reach deeper under the vehicle. Trust me in my 12 years of off-roading experience, I have seen people carrying the world in their car but except a proper shovel that alone can save the day so many times. See the last year desert training video in the gallery where we taught people getting unstuck from a crest with the help of shovel only. Second most important addon for self-recovery is the winch, that can pull you out from any sticky spot, provided you are ready to bury your spare wheel and hook the winch. Maxtrax recovery sand mats or a similar one you will only use when stuck in the super soft sand and if you are an experienced off-roader and know how to crawl out with engine LO power and constantly turning steering with the quick interval of accelerations up to 2k RPM, you will never need those tracks. I bought them too and hardly used once or twice out of fun and it's still eating dust. Last but not least advise for a lone surfer is to drive wisely and not be too adventurous, as mother nature always strike when you are least prepared.

Welcome zaidane, which year Z you got and how much you paid, as my cousin is after one of these too and looking for some ownership advise for road and track (if you do) both. He is a new license young lad, so getting strong resistance from the family.

Awesome bike and awesome ride, I'm seeing it for the first time. Go ahead with bikers club too, ill join and I'm sure few more bikers will jump in.

Use Google Satelite, it's crispy clear on 16 x zoom level. In some area, it has an overlap of images and discolors from one tiled image to another but still, dunes formation is fully readable. If you can't read dunes now, then I am sure after few drives and comparing the phone screen to real life dunes in front you, you will pick up that art very soon.

If you have Motion X then you don't need anything else, just import the track in motion X, go to the place and it will constantly show you that track and also it can record your track if record track is switched on. Motion X is one the BESTEST application I have tried for offline GPS that supports the topography maps to show you the dunes formation even. That's how I first drove in this area in 2017, by avoiding the small technical dunes and going over the medium and big dunes. Of course, you need mobile internet for constant topography update, but in UAE Etisalat coverage is awesome unless you are deep inside Liwa. Btw, @Rahimdad has recently used one of the Motion X track by intelligently importing in some Android App, so will wait to hear from him and see how he did it and how good was that.

I have 2012 Range Rover Supercharged since few months and I also noticed this similar loud fan noise almost all the time now. I assume that in this peak summer when AC condenser is working overtime so the engine fan or AC fan must be working hard to keep the engine cooled. Have you experience this in a cooler month, as in this hot months, when you start the car inside of the car is, even more, hotter than outside and AC cooling must be working hard in summer months, to bring the cabin temp down asap. Secondly, when you cold start any car, revs, and fan is always high (1500 rpm) and then settle down in 15-30 seconds in all Land Rovers to 800-900 RPM. However, you can try this that start the car in the night and drive for 5-10 minutes with AC on. Park it outside in open area and step outside to listen if AC fan speed is slowing down after a certain interval or not. It should cut off for a few seconds in between and then restart again like 30 sec ON - 5/10 sec OFF. @Barry and @shadow79 can advise further on exact intervals. TBH, I wouldn't worry much if the dealer has inspected it and said it's fine.

And Land Rovers are second last 🤐

As recently pointed by @skumar83 and a very brilliant answer provided by @Barry, identically same advise has been published in Gulf News Abu Dhabi Police issue guidelines for motorists in case they face such an emergency of car cruise control failure https://gulfnews.com/news/uae/emergencies/what-to-do-if-your-car-s-cruise-control-fails-1.2275163

For your shape Prado, there is a modified bumper available for offroad - part metal + plastic + rubber that should suffice the RTA clause of no full metal bumper. Go to tires and accessories shop near Sahara center before Troy university crossroad and many shops have ARB, TJM and ARB look-like bumpers for Prado. My price guess will be in range 1500 - 2000 dhs max depending on your bargaining skills. Choose less aggressive to retain the same looks as you are not intending this car to modify for 100% offroad and it will be your daily driver too. Basically look for a bumper that can keep similar front looks and trim the sides upwards as that's what the impact area in this shape of Prado. Also, my suggestion is to avoid bullbar as we don't hit Kangaroo's here in UAE, as it will shave a bit of weight on the nose, which is better for a long hill climbs. And for adding additional light, I highly suggest LED bar on top than the front nose, to have a better spread and saving it from nosedive impact. Get the front bumper sorted first and drive for few drives and then judge if you need firm suspensions or stock is reasonably good for your usage.

There are these three rated 5 stars from members, but I haven't used them. From pics look nice though Btw, which year Pajero you drive...?

For some reason, I don't like Diesel hood, as I'm looking for Hood louver on opp direction to vent the hot air out. Now I got the donor hood too from the half cut, looking fwd for time to start that project next.

Yes he is the Soarer - proud owner, 1 1/2 Soarer, lol

Some seriously, very well defined dreams from @sertac and @hAwX

A real workhorse and sole survivor in Indian Car market for almost 2 decades.

And more than likely you meet them online or on drives, as I made tons of like-minded friends online and in UAE desert.

You start talking and you never know there must be so many people waiting to listen to it silently, just like your above pic