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remember to use the delicate skin foam, you don't want to irritate the windshield.

Sorry dude, I find flushing is pretty useless instead inside core cleaning once every two years is much better, safer and long lasting. If its a road only car and no sign of heat gauge moving in traffic, I won't touch the cooling system even if its more than 2 years. UAE summer is a very good litmus test for cooling system than any other advices. Coolants generally have a long life compared to other fluids, if they arent leaking.

Glue was there already and I just peel off the sticker and installed. I haven't seen much the glue based suction holder but thought it maybe needed to make it strong, which actually it did. Maybe promate need to use UAE weather proof glue to market such products here.

I totally agree, I used to be very excited every time I use to sell my car so that the car shopping time starts and for next week or month I simply research, view, test drive and check so many cars. After doing this for 10-15 times, now Im bored and old. So enjoy the excitement and rush until this shopping spree last.

Same difference. They all eat rice 😬

I hear you man, seen such things. But here like you said the door swings both ways. Customer wat dealer level repairs and want to pay fuck all for it and then there are places that charge dealer level prices and their work is fuck all. Its a vicious circle. Some lucky folk have found a good mechanic who charges reasonably. And once found they never let ago. A prime example is a good friend of mine who I know for 20 plus years he works out part time in thr evenings out if his bosses shed His policy is he will beat any outside garage prices abd guarantees his work. And till date Ive not seen a customer leave him unless he wanted to get rid if a customer. Ive seen people literally force their cars on him. Even when he insists hes super busy and it will be weeks before he can even look at his car. Saying they dont care fix it when ever you get the time.

If i would have a workshop here in UAE, i would give probably give no guarantees either on most of the works which involve clunk/tok sounds. I've been reading the Google reviews of many workshops in Dubai and it is sometimes shocking to see the testimonials from both the workshops and the customers with so many misunderstandings between each other. In UAE it goes like this: "Sir, 6 months back you changed my engine oil, but now my AC is not working !!! you clearly did something wrong and i will write bad reviews about you on Google and tell all my friends what a sh*tty shop you are running !! I was in a gas-station workshop with my Pajero a few weeks back just to get my battery checked. As this station is working on a first come first serve basis , the lady at the desk told me that i had to wait for my turn which i did and after 90mins it was my turn which i accepted without issue. They helped me out and did not charge anything and apologized for the longer waiting time. During that time a guy in a Mercedes SL500 drove into the shop and asked for an immediate repair of his tyre because it was losing a bit of air. The lady who runs the place told him in a friendly way that on weekends it tends to get busy and he would need to wait for his turn. The guy started shouting at the lady like a maniac and other customers had to intervene. Have a look at the Google reviews on car workshops where you also see so many unreasonable requests of customers that want to be treated like a king but treat the workshop staff like cr*p. I remember one example of a guy that went to the workshop with his own aftermarket parts that he wanted to get installed on his car but he wanted it immediately and did not allow the workshop to first do the prior inspection and service report documentation. Ok my rant is over, but i am just trying to give a supporting hand to the hard working mechanics who toil in grease in sweat every day and are getting shout at for things which are not their fault. YES there are many many unreliable guys in this business but i try to follow my gut feeling and actively go on the floor and talk to the mechanics and show interest.

Agreed now its more of a chore and hassle. Ive been thinking of selling mine for over a year now but the thought if selling and then looking for a another one makes me cringe. I just went through this cycle myself for a friend. And finally after a month of looking we closed the deal this thursaday Now its the post purchase fix up tune up stage. Already spent entire afternoon yesterday working on it in my driveway. As it had a m main relay and cam sensor issue causing it to shut down every 5 minutes. Which was good for us as we got it at 40% below market value. But a 80 dhs sensor and 25 dhs worth of relays and 1hr of elbow grease we got it fixed and its running fine now.

Getting a car is like getting married..if you investigate nicely and look around clearly then you might end up with a nice beautiful and respectable one. if done hastly then you might end up with a whore....😂 For some it takes much longer to find the suitable one...

https://www.thenational.ae/uae/experienced-uae-hiker-killed-on-wadi-walk-in-oman-1.888873

@Gauravbhai...sure thing ill inform the new guy.

Gilette...the best a windshield can get... Probably a heat gun to make the glue loose, and then an old creditcard or cutter blade. That should do the trick.

And this time 30 minutes means 30 minutes in advance, if he is late then we cant do the briefing holding everyone else and he might have to come back next week. Remember @Roshan Abraham briefing held all 6 cars, not good for people who were on time.

I would try the shaving method: * Take a Stanley cutter knife and remove the blade, make sure the glue is hot or heated up it should come off easier. Then put on some gloves and by sliding / shaving over the windshield in a 45° angle you should be able to remove the glue. Just imagine you're working in a barber shop

@Keithryan, So after getting the upper and lower arm bushes replaced and rear brakes changed, the car has definitely become much smoother but the clonking sound still didn't go away, it is still there whenever i turn my steering and straighten it later, or on speed bumps, or turns on inclines. Got my car rechecked, and then they discovered that on the left side, the spring coil of the shocks have loosened, and that the rod needs to be replaced. I'm a bit annoyed right now as this should have been checked anyway before I spend the 1700 dhs on parts and labour costs. Now they're saying the shocks will take separate work, however as it's expensive I decided to just delay it man. Yes the bushes and brakes needed replacement, but I would'be expected the shocks to be checked as part of their routine suspension checks, and not as a new discovery after doing all the work as I could've saved some parts and labour cost. Anyway next thing I did was to goto Future Tyres Trading in Ras Al Khor, to get wheels rotated, and get alignment of car fixed as the bushes replacement and lathe pressing resulted in a slight disalignment. There, I made the same clonking complain, and the guys tightened the screws on the 2 bolts (on the axle I think?) beneath the bushes, both front and back.. This simple tightening seems to have massively improved the clonking noise, the car is driving much smoother. The noise stitll comes, it's not as loud and not as frequent. They explained that when the bolts are not tightened properly or when they get a little lose, this noise often comes from the base of the car. So I seem to have a shocks replacement required on the left side as the spring has come loose and doesn't cover the rod fully, which the guy said is a sign of needing replacement.. However I do have temporary relief by tightening of the 2 bolts both front and back under the bushes. Hope this helps?

That's messed up. Was the glue included or did you apply that yourself? Asking you this so I can remove my cheap suction-grip phone holder on my car and avoid a similar fate.

They did, I am sure they had to, there was no space with the 6.2 L engine at the back.

2020 CHEVROLET CORVETTE STINGRAY PRELIMARY SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE Type: LT2 6.2L V8 VVT with direct injection and Active Fuel Management (cylinder deactivation) Bore & stroke (in / mm): 4.06 x 3.62 / 103.25 x 92 Block Material: A319-T7 cast aluminum with cast-in iron cylinder liners and nodular main bearing caps Oiling System: Dry sump-type (7.5-qt. capacity); includes oil-spray piston cooling Oil Type: Dexos 2 0W40 synthetic Cylinder Head Material: 319-T7 cast aluminum Combustion Chamber volume: 59cc Compression Ratio: 11.5:1 Valvetrain: Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder; dual-equal variable valve timing Valve Size (in / mm): 2.13 / 54 hollow (intake) & 1.59 / 40.4 sodium filled (exhaust) Fuel Delivery: Direct injection with Active Fuel Management: Max pressure: 2,175 psi (15 Mpa / 150 bar) Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 (all cylinders); 1-7-6-4 (with deactivation) Throttle body: 87mm single bore (electronic) ECU: GM E99 (32-bit processing) Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): SAE-certified to 495 / 369 @ 6450 rpm (with performance exhaust) Torque (lb.-ft./ Nm @ rpm): SAE-certified to 470 / 637 @ 5150 rpm (with performance exhaust) TRANSMISSION & AXLE Type: M1L 8-speed dual clutch (DCT) CHASSIS & SUSPENSION Front Suspension: Short/long arm (SLA) double wishbone, forged aluminum upper and cast aluminum L-shape lower control arms; monotube shock absorbers (46mm /); Magnetic Selective Ride Control 4.0 available on Z51. Adjustable front lift with memory is available Rear Suspension: Short/long arm (SLA) double wishbone, forged aluminum upper and cast aluminum L-shape lower control arms; direct-acting stabilizer bar; monotube shock absorbers (46mm); Magnetic Selective Ride Control 4.0 available with Z51 Steering Type: Bosch/ZF variable-ratio rack-and-pinion with electric power assist; includes Active Steer Stops with available Magnetic Ride Control 4.0 Steering ratio: 15.7:1 Turning Circle (ft. / m): 11.6 m (std.) , 11.1 m (with FE4 Magnetic Ride Control) Brake Type: Front and rear E-boost-assisted discs with Brembo four-piston/two-piece front calipers and four-piston/monobloc rear calipers With Z51 – Front and rear E-boost-assisted discs with Brembo four-piston monobloc caliper at front and rear Brake Rotor Size (in / mm): Front: 12.6 x 1.18 (321 x 30) , Front: 13.3 x 1.18 (345 x 30) – with Z51, Rear: 13.6 x 1.02 (339 x 26), Rear: 13.8 x 1.06 (350 x 27) – with Z5 Wheel Size: Front: 19-inch x 8.5-inch (w/5 x 120mm bolt pattern) , Rear: 20-inch x 11-inch (w/5 x 120mm bolt pattern) Tire Type and Size: Stingray: Michelin Pilot Sport ALS, Stingray with Z51: Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, Front: 245/35ZR19, Rear: 305/30ZR20 ^Do not use summer-only tires in winter conditions, as it would adversely affect vehicle safety, performance and durability. Use only GM-approved tire and wheel combinations. Unapproved combinations my change the vehicle’s performance characteristics. For important tire and wheel information, go to: my.chevrolet.com/learn/tires/ or see your dealer. EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS Wheelbase (in. / mm): 107.2 / 2722 Overall Length (in. / mm): 182.3/ 4630 Overall Width (in. / mm): 76.1 / 1934 Overall Height (in. / mm): 48.6 / 1234 Track (in. / mm): (front) 64.9 / 1648 , (rear) 62.4 / 1586 INTERIOR DIMENSIONS Headroom (in. / mm): 37.9 / 962 Legroom (in. / mm): 42.8 / 1086 Shoulder Room (in. / mm): 54.4 / 1381 Hip Room (in. / mm): 52.0 / 1321 WEIGHTS & CAPACITIES Dry Weight (lb. / kg): 3366 / 1530 Cargo Volume (cu. ft. / L)^: 12.6 / 356.8 ^Cargo and load capacity limited by weight and distribution.

@Rahimdadbhai, theres an absolute newbie fried of mine who would like to join us for this drive. He too drives an xterra. Would you recommend he join?

This car search journey is so amazing than expected, thank you very much for the support guys.

Just toss in a new aftermarket radiator and get on with your life....

I had advised earlier to take out the sample and start searching you might stumble upon it. if all luck aligned correct and the monkey isn't constipated...

Very sad .😔.

Flush is pretty useless 9 out of 10 times if car is moving heat gauge in traffic. Getting it cleaned from inside is much better as once in two year or depending on kms you have done. Which car and year? How many kms driven? When was last radiator changed or cleaned? If service advisor is suggesting without any symptom then it's a waste tbh.

Very sad and tragic

How much does it cost?. Nothing. Get under your car and there should be a drain plug. Open it and ket everything flush out. Fill it with water and and radiator cleaning additive you prefer. Drive the car around for 15 minutes and drain it again. And then fill with coolant. Best would be to take it out and reverse flush it but Im guessing you DIY skills are nowhere near that level

Hahaha @ the above diagnosis. We don't know what's wrong so we're just going to change everything.

As the summer heat is in full form, our night drive is the only escape to enjoy the good breeze and pleasant weather in the desert (fingers crossed). This time we are heading to our much-loved sandbox of Pink Rock in Tawi Nazwa area. If time permit and convoy response are favorable, we might continue to Bidayer, if not then we will end at 2nd Dec cafeteria for easy exit. This area offers a great mix of playable dunes and medium dunes to test your night driving skills. Depending on convoy strength and liking will plan the route to fit everyone's taste. Offroad lights are recommended for a night drive, but if you don't have you can still safely drive with your HIGH BEAM. When: 25 July 2019, Thursday Meeting time: 11 PM, the convoy will move at sharp 11:15 PM Where: Tawi Nazwa Shops GPS Coordinate: https://goo.gl/maps/4U9z5Q9HdesX3UU59 Level: Newbie, Fewbie & Above Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 10 inches of ground clearance. Plan: Drive, train and enjoy till about 4 am and then break for snacks What to bring along: Snacks whatever you like with little extra to share, water, liquids, smiles, stories, enthusiasm and willingness to learn. Approximate finish time: 5:00 AM Please RSVP on the below calendar:

There is a product available in ace hardware Goo Gone adhesive remover which will definitely work. First try all DIY suggested above and I am sure petrol will solve your problem.

I don't have a lot of technical expertise but honestly I'm trying as much as possible to learn about these things, but beyond a point you definitely need to trust the other person (if you're not a savvy mechanical whiz yourself). I am not happy that my car still has these sounds, as the issue was around suspensions and bushes, however, if the car is being lifted and being inspected, it doesn't take much effort to inspect the shocks too! I trust the guy as Barry recommended Mohsen and I have been going to him on and off for works on my Pajero, and have a good relation with him. Just not really happy this time as I felt this issue should've been identified sooner, it could've saved me a lot of time and some money too if i could've gone directly for the main issue. Like I said my bushes and rear brakes did need repair / replacement, but when an issue isn't diagnosed correctly after 2 or 3 inspections and a full day of work on the car, you tend to lose confidence in them, that's all. Anyway, I do like Future Tyres as well, I mean i find it very hard to communicate with the guys as most speak Arabic, but they seem to know their job very well, at least I've got a temporary relief through tightening of those bolts. I'll save the shocks work for later

Good if you are happy and convinced. I have received 3K quote for cyl. missing with a 250 diagnostic cost from 30 year "SPECIALIST" car clinic in Dubai. Will you provide a guarantee - NO = Run away. I'm not saying all are greedy, most are and others are simply stupid, non technical, careless, lazy, ignorant, too busy and list can go endless to spoil our hard earned money in the end with a sorry or blank face with a shoulder shrug.

Hahahaha no need for a heatgun in that case 😂

I had a similar issue when I replaced the salik tag for the jeep. I took it to grand service station for steam washing and asked the guys if they can remove it, they did a good job, I don't know what they did, but maybe you can do the same on the next washing.

Ok so after getting the upper and lower arm bushes replaced and rear brakes changed, the car has definitely become much smoother but the clonking sound still didn't go away, it is still there whenever i turn my steering and straighten it later, or on speed bumps, or turns on inclines. Got my car rechecked, and then they discovered that on the left side, the spring coil of the shocks have loosened, and that the rod needs to be replaced. I'm a bit annoyed right now as this should have been checked anyway before I spend the 1700 dhs on parts and labour costs. Now they're saying the shocks will take separate work, however as it's expensive I decided to just delay it man. Yes the bushes and brakes needed replacement, but I would'be expected the shocks to be checked as part of their routine suspension checks, and not as a new discovery after doing all the work as I could've saved some parts and labour cost. Anyway next thing I did was to goto Future Tyres Trading in Ras Al Khor, to get wheels rotated, and get alignment of car fixed as the bushes replacement and lathe pressing resulted in a slight disalignment. There, I made the same clonking complain, and the guys tightened the screws on the 2 bolts (on the axle I think?) beneath the bushes, both front and back.. This simple tightening seems to have massively improved the clonking noise, the car is driving much smoother. The noise stitll comes, it's not as loud and not as frequent. They explained that when the bolts are not tightened properly or when they get a little lose, this noise often comes from the base of the car. So I seem to have a shocks replacement required on the left side as the spring has come loose and doesn't cover the rod fully, which the guy said is a sign of needing replacement.. However I do have temporary relief by tightening of the 2 botls both front and back under the bushes. Hope this helps?

Thank you @Shamil for your query. As per my experience absolute first timers find it more difficult when they are not able to see where they are going and all experienced gained in night drives is n9t really helpful when they see the daylight. If your friend is willing to come and ready to be a passenger if at any point he feels uncomfortable, he is welcome to join. If he is coming let him sign up for the drive and be 30 minutes early at the meeting point so that we can give him the absolute newbie brief.

^^^^^ That if you are tyring to cure heating issues with a flush, then not even worth the bother. Otherwise its good practise to flush out your radiator and fill it with fresh fluid every two years

Ah looks better in these pics but a lot of Italian influence. Abiut time they ditched engine in the front tranmission in the rear setup.And hope got rid of the rear leaf spring suspension.

Only modern cars I know that used leaf springs was the XJ, Xtrail and Corvette.

Good question and thinking, but I'm running at max height in front already due to IFS. Any further lift will strain the CV joints and keep breaking them every month, now they are breaking once every year.

Replace the fender, no one here Ive seen does a good filler and sanding down to smoot finish job which you cant tell from 5 miles away is filled with bodyfiller because its is more wavy than the sea on a stormy day. Even a used one in good condition i.e no dents and dings from scrap is preferable than repairing the old one

If leaf springs are too stiff you can always take a leaf out. If they’re too bouncy you can add a leaf in. I’ve worked on cars in the past where I couldn’t get parts so I measured what I need and searched through piles of springs in a scrapyard until I found the size of leaf I need. They’re easy to modify if you are prepared to put a bit of work in and do some experimenting.

When you’ve spent your entire budget on your car, but really wanted to have those 24 inch rims