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I can certainly (90%) relate this issue to faulty ICV (Idle Control Valve), as I had the same and done exactly same things like you. ICV cannot be cleaned, you have to replace with brand new one from Habtoor. I know its damn expensive, but that's the only cure. Btw, which year your Pajero is and how many kms is it driven? Do you have race adjuster under the throttle body wire (screw system), so that you can increase RPM to test and see if it helps.

Plus the BS we get here, like the other day the guy bought a cabin filter for his Pajero and was informed y Habtoor Motors that there is no cabin filter in a Pajero. Upon research I found out that the space is there for the cabin filter but has been covered by plastic which needs to be cut out to fit the cabin filter, even the screws and everything fit perfectly with the cabin filter he has bought. That reminds me, I have to check if he has got it done yet.

Let me complete what Barry meant: Did you get your yearly check for 10k aed from your employer yet to generate 100k business from carnity?

Really Barry I yet have to get it then as of now I only got good times and lot of respect here from members here....

but india needs better roads first...

Welcome to the club. Did you get your yearly check for 10k aed yet?

Hahahaha I've spent half my life fixing and modifying stuff that the engineers got wrong.

@derek you are in auto world here nothing is 100% just things that hit the bullseye or not and the thing is usually when climbing you are at low rpm and high torque bands or else with very HGH rpm and still in low gear that mean stress on engines and transmission and you know what I still have another idea up my sleeve and I am sure this will put nice effect on it...technicians and mechanic's have always sorted the shits that engineers have f***ed up.....with all the my humble apologies and regards...

You welcome buddy, anyone who contributes to the community understanding it's real meaning and sharing the vision of Carnity will be worthy of this honourable "star group". Btw, I love your metaphor of gauging your happiness by seeing silicone. Real mechanic expression, lol.

Also it's worth noting that anyone can download or subscribe to iCalendar feed that will notify them in their own calendar, to not to miss any event.

Not bad as a make shift, but I still prefer branded and heavy duty stuff to be 100% sure unlike using scrap parts for off-road (too much risk involve IMO).

Welcome Saleem, well deserved. You are quickly winning so many hearts with your expertise and light hearted chatters.

Here is the video to see it action:

thank you gaurav bhai for putting me in this elite bracket now if only you could gauge the happiness you get when you wrenching that oil sump bolt and see that smile when the silicon spouts from all the edges....

jason there are always backup and counter backup circuits for safety systems and nanny systems in cars but you can always disable them and shh no one will know about it too when you place back those fuses and perform reset steps....

well i might be a last minute addition but if i am there then i'll get the diagnosis machine with to reset those codes but what barry has recommended is the sure way to go....

It really is as simple as just pulling the fuse out. The owners manual will tell you which one or there might be a diagram inside the fuse box lid. When you put it back in and restart the car the warning light should cycle as normal then go out. If it doesn't it's just a matter of disconnecting the positive battery lead and touching it to the negative battery terminal to reset. There will be a fault code stored in the ecu but don't worry, it's just a stored history code and won't affect anything. Just remember this incase you go to a garage and the mechanic tells you there is a fault and tries to rip you off with an unnecessary repair.