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Just be careful not to smell too much of it or else..... TbksUS7.mp4

Not Ayub Nobodys perfect and sometimes an issue is so niggly you just have to go down a list of troubleshooting. Starting with the cheapest and eaiset first and working ones way down.

There is a product available in ace hardware Goo Gone adhesive remover which will definitely work. First try all DIY suggested above and I am sure petrol will solve your problem.

And even good mechanics have it wrong sometimes on diagnosis, and that’s perfectly acceptable if there is transparent communication. I used to repair electronics and when I had a customer that brought me a 50y old amplifier that had some intermittent issues like crackling sounds and unstable volume, I’d go for a capacitor replacement and clean out of all potmeters, although this MIGHT not have been the main culprit but it’s the most likely one and you want to exclude it out of your diagnosis. Same might sometimes occur for a car that gives weird noises and when looking underneath there are 15 things that might be the culprit. We need to start somewhere and hope that the gut feeling and experience weighs through. If you’re happy with your mechanic, then you’ll accept that he’s only human too and that a clear communication and mutual respect goes a long way.

Should I use the Gillette shaving foam as well?

@Michael sammy you need to remove the aluminium lip in the rear bumper. There are 4 botls on the top and 4 underneath the car. You can get it removed very easily in any garage. It's a 10 min job. If not possible, then we can look at it before the drive and get it out.

Welcome Michael to Carnity and its offroad club. If drive lead Rahimdad allow you for this drive, then please come 30 mins early for newbie briefing - very important for new joiners. Just arrange the flag, for lights you can use high beam until you are convinced with your new hobby. Same for skid plate. Hope your Pajero rear bumper is sorted, if not @Srikumar can guide you here on what's needed to remove it for the drive.

That's why I asked him to check his owner manual to be sure.

You can tell them if the problem is not solved you not going to pay. If you do that with phone message than you have a proof. When you go there to pick your car, make a test drive if it is solved ok of it is not solved than this is their problem.

Maybe try those sticker remover spray cans

Totally Agree, but sadly fake and greedy mechanic love to hide behind this "Nobody's perfect" theme and spoil the name for 20% genuinely good mechanics that fails on occasional attempt due to tricky scenarios. If you are failing 1 or 2 out of 10 times, you are still considered good. If you fail 8 out of 10 times then either you are fake or greedy and need to learn your profession from foundation again. I ain't put my time and money for such people, charge me 50% extra but fix it in first time and that 50% extra labor will save me tons of hassle, time and unwanted parts cost. We go to mechanics considering they are professional and "should" know what they are doing. If they also do the guesswork and pull the trigger in dark, then whats the point. I even encountered a mechanic told me that one of my car engine cylinder is gone bad and he need to change that one cylinder. I was looking at him on his face and told him: This car doesn't have LPG cylinder. Then there is dealership scare for brake drum change. How critical are they to be changed in this service. Sir, its very critical and if you dont change them now they will break in two pieces on the very next hard braking you might do. You don't want to break them at SZR on 120 and loose control and damage your car and end up on a hospital bed. I was like, please change it NOW. Later I googled and found OEM thickness was 6MM and mine was at 5MM and I could have drove that for next 1 year easy as 4MM was change time and 3MM is the threshold. How will you trust these guys again......? Another dude quoted me 2000 dhs for wobbling Discovery and then after 1 day of research on car forum, I bought an original Land Rover drive shaft U-Joint for 35 dhs and labor for 50 dhs and car was perfect without any wobble. And that was a Land Rover Specialist. Im more scared from specialist now as they know all the in and out of all the known problems but love misguiding the customer for endless repair bills. I can go whole day with my horror stories and how some people spoil the name of others that ends up spoiling the name for everyone.

The baking soda gives the abrasion and the coconut oil works like a carrier. But the main thing cleaning it is the alcohol. I don't think your windshield would get cleaned with this as iin your case it's a much stronger adhesive. You will definitely need a solvent in which the glue dissolves. That's why I suggest a ethyl acetate based thinner from national paints which you can get in any hardware store. Ethyl acetate is one of the raw material which keeps an adhesive in liquid state and once it evaporates it gives a strong bonding

I get this every day. I recently repaired the AC on a car that was worth close to 5 million dirhams. Owner took the car to another shop to get some engine modifications done because he didn’t like my price. In the process, they removed the AC compressor and let all the gas out. But it was somehow my fault because I repaired the AC 2 months ago? Sometimes I miss being an oil rat where I just have to fix the problem and fill out some paperwork and not have to deal with the general public.

I don't have a lot of technical expertise but honestly I'm trying as much as possible to learn about these things, but beyond a point you definitely need to trust the other person (if you're not a savvy mechanical whiz yourself). I am not happy that my car still has these sounds, as the issue was around suspensions and bushes, however, if the car is being lifted and being inspected, it doesn't take much effort to inspect the shocks too! I trust the guy as Barry recommended Mohsen and I have been going to him on and off for works on my Pajero, and have a good relation with him. Just not really happy this time as I felt this issue should've been identified sooner, it could've saved me a lot of time and some money too if i could've gone directly for the main issue. Like I said my bushes and rear brakes did need repair / replacement, but when an issue isn't diagnosed correctly after 2 or 3 inspections and a full day of work on the car, you tend to lose confidence in them, that's all. Anyway, I do like Future Tyres as well, I mean i find it very hard to communicate with the guys as most speak Arabic, but they seem to know their job very well, at least I've got a temporary relief through tightening of those bolts. I'll save the shocks work for later

If i would have a workshop here in UAE, i would give probably give no guarantees either on most of the works which involve clunk/tok sounds. I've been reading the Google reviews of many workshops in Dubai and it is sometimes shocking to see the testimonials from both the workshops and the customers with so many misunderstandings between each other. In UAE it goes like this: "Sir, 6 months back you changed my engine oil, but now my AC is not working !!! you clearly did something wrong and i will write bad reviews about you on Google and tell all my friends what a sh*tty shop you are running !! I was in a gas-station workshop with my Pajero a few weeks back just to get my battery checked. As this station is working on a first come first serve basis , the lady at the desk told me that i had to wait for my turn which i did and after 90mins it was my turn which i accepted without issue. They helped me out and did not charge anything and apologized for the longer waiting time. During that time a guy in a Mercedes SL500 drove into the shop and asked for an immediate repair of his tyre because it was losing a bit of air. The lady who runs the place told him in a friendly way that on weekends it tends to get busy and he would need to wait for his turn. The guy started shouting at the lady like a maniac and other customers had to intervene. Have a look at the Google reviews on car workshops where you also see so many unreasonable requests of customers that want to be treated like a king but treat the workshop staff like cr*p. I remember one example of a guy that went to the workshop with his own aftermarket parts that he wanted to get installed on his car but he wanted it immediately and did not allow the workshop to first do the prior inspection and service report documentation. Ok my rant is over, but i am just trying to give a supporting hand to the hard working mechanics who toil in grease in sweat every day and are getting shout at for things which are not their fault. YES there are many many unreliable guys in this business but i try to follow my gut feeling and actively go on the floor and talk to the mechanics and show interest.

Good if you are happy and convinced. I have received 3K quote for cyl. missing with a 250 diagnostic cost from 30 year "SPECIALIST" car clinic in Dubai. Will you provide a guarantee - NO = Run away. I'm not saying all are greedy, most are and others are simply stupid, non technical, careless, lazy, ignorant, too busy and list can go endless to spoil our hard earned money in the end with a sorry or blank face with a shoulder shrug.

Then get the petrol and brake fluid on Friday and show me how to do it, lol

With inside the car temp in afternoon hitting close to 60-70 degrees, do we really need a heatgun, but I need to dare myself for sauna in July.

Gilette...the best a windshield can get... Probably a heat gun to make the glue loose, and then an old creditcard or cutter blade. That should do the trick.

And this time 30 minutes means 30 minutes in advance, if he is late then we cant do the briefing holding everyone else and he might have to come back next week. Remember @Roshan Abraham briefing held all 6 cars, not good for people who were on time.

remember to use the delicate skin foam, you don't want to irritate the windshield.

OUCH. Haven't you asked for a guarantee if their suggested repair will fix the tok sound...? That's my first question to run away from 80% fake or greedy mechanics here.

I went to Promate site to find this product and spotted that this comes with 24 months warranty. Sent a message with receipt and got a call back in 30 mins that we will replace it after receiving the failed product. Very impressive with there customer service, will keep everyone posted on the progress. Appreciate if someone can advise how to clean this glue from the car glass?

bced73e80aa5363c8bc247cfc0db21ae.mp4

60K or less would be a good price if car is super clean and no accidents. If it was not black, I will say upto 63 can be good deal, depending on your base price finding. Approx math for Korean depreciation (not very conclusive though). 2016 - 130K - 20% = 104 2017 - 104K - 15% = 88 2018 - 88K - 15% = 75 2019 - 75K -15% = 63 After this price finding, you need to do lot of plus and minus based on real condition. If any tire change, battery, major service is due in next 3-6 months it will lower the value further.

One way is to see the prices available for a similar condition vehicle on Dubizzle and then start negotiating to get it as low as possible. If you have decided the vehicle and you are buying it on cash, it would be good to carry the cash with you and do one final negotiation before getting the transfer done. A seller also would like to sell his vehicle at the earliest and it's a good time to negotiate if you are serious to buy.

It will just come back. There is no way that disc run-out can be polished away.

Usually it does not have to be years or kms as far as I can see there is always one time or other for some reason the cooling system has to be opened some times for Access to some other part or to clear a seeping pipe so mostly your coolent is being mixed with new coolent from time to time...as a general rule don't fix something that is not broken....

Read the owner manual and find out after how many kms coolant change (not flush) is recommended. I think it's 160K Kms. This 40k must be "INSPECTION" only that someone is telling you to flush or change......! Do you have any heat gauge moving up and down in traffic? Or any other engine overheating sign? Who has suggested you for flush and why? This depends on KMS more than on year tbh. 2 Year rule is not really required if its not an offroad car. Toyota recommend change after 120 - 160K kms, Chevrolet - 240K Kms, MB - 190K

Thanks Gaurav Bhai for the reply, its a 2013 Fortuner from automall , i did a 40k run after the purchase. never did a flush

That's your call completely, but if Future tyre can spot a loose nut in one lift then previous guy should have also pointed before 1700 dhs spend. I agree it may not be greed but simple take it for granted attitude or too busy for proper diagnose, because if they knew that loose nut can bring some relief, they would have tighten it too to gain at least half a feather on their cap. Whatever the case it maybe, your 1700 gone, now how you convince yourself, its all in your mind. Now table can turn INSTANTLY if you would have push them back with guarantee and then they will lift the car, lick the car and smell every corner for the real culprit.

They also sell stickers (I'm not sure how long they will last though) https://www.amazon.com/Tire-Stickers-White-Wall-Yourself/dp/B01N10IA0Z/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2ZDNZ0Q6TGLVA&keywords=white+wall+tire+paint&qid=1563862344&s=gateway&sprefix=white+wall+tire+%2Caps%2C361&sr=8-10 https://www.amazon.com/Port-wall-White-Portawall-Insert/dp/B07T2VNR22/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=white+wall+tire+paint+roller&qid=1563862523&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anvil-Car-Motorcycle-White-Wall-Tyre-Tire-Paint-250ml-Cruiser-Hot-Rod/253912781831?epid=9024424994&hash=item3b1e619407:g:UigAAOSw4DJdNoYN&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tyre-Whitewall-Machine-Redwall-Paint-Roller-Applicator-8mm-Paint-Bottle-New/172986713641?hash=item2846cfc629:g:E0AAAOSwal5YIlUn&vxp=mtr

Thanks Asif bhai for wonderful goo gone idea. Below video even shows home made goo gone kind of paste to remove glue or salik stickers. I remember salik sticker removal is also a nightmare due to super weird position people put it and then you keep hitting your head on windshield while removing it.

Coil springs break easily. Especially on post 2000 cars. They seem to be made from chocolate. Broken springs are usually nothing to do with the shock absorber. Buy a new pair of springs. Inspect the shock absorbers before you spend money on them. Look for leaks around the seals. When the springs are removed, push down on the shock absorber. You should feel a strong resistance and it should pop up on its own. If you feel bubbles or slack spots when you’re pushing or it doesn’t come up on it’s own, it’s banjaxed.

@Gaurav, this guy is a Pajero specialist and I have given my car to him regularly for service now, I don't think it was an issue of being greedy, but just that they were maybe really casual in handling my case i don't know, it's definitely something I am not happy about.

Sure Bhai will bring some

Read the complete post. Its not to cure heating issues but just to clean up any stray debris and buildup and like everything else coolant also has a life and after around two years its pretty much done. its good practice to flush and refill with new coolant

We use petrol if it doesn't go then we use more petrol then rub like crazy...it goes good if not then we use brake fluid and rub like anything...

Hahahaha no need for a heatgun in that case 😂

@Gauravbhai...sure thing ill inform the new guy.

Try the same nail polish remover or ethyl acetate based thinner from the hardware store. And then with a blade you can gently scrape it out

I had a similar issue when I replaced the salik tag for the jeep. I took it to grand service station for steam washing and asked the guys if they can remove it, they did a good job, I don't know what they did, but maybe you can do the same on the next washing.

ok noted. will relay the same to him.

Then I should advise you to take it to someone one who does this for a living as they will handle this situation with more focus and better end result...

Thanks @shadow79. Fortunately there are no light jerks on steering while accelerating nor braking.

Just toss in a new aftermarket radiator and get on with your life....

^^^^^ That if you are tyring to cure heating issues with a flush, then not even worth the bother. Otherwise its good practise to flush out your radiator and fill it with fresh fluid every two years