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We request every member that joins this drive to go through the information below and strictly follow these guidelines, etiquette and responsibilities. MUST READ AND COMPLY Environmental Policy Offroad Flag Guideline Two Way Radio Guideline Off road Driving Etiquettes Emergency details for all off roaders Off Road Driving - Roles & Responsibilities Drive Details Level: Fewbie and above (all levels) Meeting time: 8:00 AM (SHARP - Without any exceptions) Meeting Point: https://maps.app.goo.gl/uSSuoGtrzEcxrKvW6 Action Plan: One more drive in one of the more pristine parts of Sweihan's desert. The area most driven in Sweihan, just left of the road leading to Al Ain, and close to a big farm vaguely resembling the shape of Africa, is also known as .... "Africa". The side of Sweihan on the right of that same road, just opposite, and south of "Africa" is much more unspoiled, and offers just as much variety of dunes, bowls, and scenery. That's what we'll explore, either exiting at the camel drome just north of the Talal Resort, or perhaps going all the way back to Darzood (along the road from Al Ain, and closer to our starting point. Don't come in a hurry to return home, as we may take some time exploring this almost virgin area. Type of Car: Any proper 4x4 with front and back tow hooks and 8-10 inches of ground clearance. What to bring along: Loads of water, snacks (for yourself), smiles, face mask, rubber gloves, enthusiasm and willingness to learn. Approximate finish time: 12:00 PM P.S. Only join if you have a compressor to inflate your tires after the drive. RECOMMENDED OFF-ROAD GEAR: Tire deflator & Tire pressure gauge Compressor (MANDATORY) Walkie-talkie radio (MANDATORY) Off-road flag (MANDATORY) Shovel, Tow Rope & 2 Shackles First-aid kit Fire extinguisher. LIMITED SPOTS AVAILABLE This drive is limited to 10 cars only. RSVP will close on Friday - 12 PM. If the RSVP is full, you can add your name to the waitlist, once anyone drops, you will be moved to the RSVP list. RSVP will close a day prior to preparing a convoy list. Latecomers will be returned - Without any exceptions. Members without RSVP will be returned - Without any exceptions. Please withdraw your RSVP, if you aren't joining, so your spot can be taken by others. Repeated no-show members after RSVP will have their account suspended for a month. PLEASE RSVP ON THE CALENDAR

I've had the UV-5R and the static was horrendous even with squelch at lvl. 9. After that, I bought the UV-9R and it's significantly better. I don't believe it to be faulty hardware, just software. You'll be happy to have spent that extra 20AED when you are cruising in the desert, listening to the wind. With the UV-5R all that I was hearing was: "...bzzzzzzzzz...bzz...bzzzz...bzzzzzzzzzzzzz".

Many of us Mitsubishi Pajero owners will face the dreaded orange blinking Center Diff Lock light sooner or later. All Mitsubishi Pajero Gen4 green lights for the wheels will be OFF, and only the orange center diff lock light will be blinking. There are a few reasons why this occurs. When the ECU notices a vacuum leak after 10-15 mins, it will engage the orange Center diff lock light and will start blinking. Restarting the vehicle mostly does the trick, but if this happens more often, you might be having an issue with either the vacuum hoses, or the solenoids. The first thing to check are the vacuum hoses underneath the car that connect to the freewheeling clutch actuator: This actuator is a small piston that is controlled by vacuum. Check if the vacuum hose is still intact and does not have any cracks in it. Pull back the rubber boot and remove dirt and sand that you will definitely find in there when you go for regular offroading. If all this is verified and found OK, but the problem still persists, move on to the vacuum solenoids, which are located in the engine bay next to the air filter box. Below you will see the set. Mitsubishi No. 8657A031 for a Pajero 4th 2008. Price is around 360 Dhs. Replacing the actuator set: (TAKES MAX. 20 MINS) With a 10mm ratchet you can easily unscrew the two bolts holding the unit in place. Remove the black vacuum hoses by twisting and turning them. They might be a bit stuck so you can use some pliers to twist them gently, and then remove them by gently pulling them. Now remove the 2 electrical connector (push the small lever on top, and pull). They might also be a little bit stuck with dirt and sand and over the years, just take your time and don't force it. Now install the new unit and make sure to put the electrical connectors and 3 vacuum hoses in the exact same way. You will see that there is a solenoid with a Blue dot and a solenoid with a Yellow dot for easy referencing. The old unit can be tested with an Multimeter with Resistance (Ohm) measurement setting, but will not give you 100% confirmation that they are defective or not. We have seen intermittent problems with these solenoids where they become sticky during hot weather only. With the multimeter, put it on Ohms, range 200, and measure the resistance of each solenoid. It should be approx 40 Ohms. If it is above or below, this is the indication that they need replacement. In my case this was an intermittent failure that would come up once in a while, especially during hot days, so i've decided to replace them as the vehicle is 12 years old.

Due to limited participation, this drive has been cancelled. We have another FB+ drive on Saturday which still has some space available incase you wish to join. Will plan this drive some other time. @Mohit Gurnani @Mohammad Sayawoush Azad please acknowledge this post.

UV5R/UV82 Squelch Levels - Miklor You will need to install free software called CHIRP on your laptop and also buy the double jack to USB special data cable. Amazon and DM sells them.

This is awesome. I'll use this video as justification for new shocks

@Imran Asghar Hey bro, I had mine changed literally yesterday. I cant help you with the problem that they might snap... BUT I still wanted to tell you that my old plat ones were all worn and slightly rusted so I took the chance to upgrade to iridium while I was at it. We run a lot at high rpms so having some tough and resilient plugs is important Hope you solve it man!

Hi @Imran Asghar It is difficult situation if the spark plug and the cylinder head are seized due to high temperature. If you force it, it may break the thread on the cylinder head. Try to spray penetrating oil like WD40 bit more and soak it overnight. To prevent this happen in the future, we normally apply some anti-seized compound on every thread that exposed to extreme high temperatures like spark plug, exhaust manifold, turbocharger etc.

Hi @Theo09 one voice with @Frederic, I always carry both of them, I most of the time I prefer to use UV9R in term of the sounds, more clear. I don’t know with the range.

Better range I don’t really believe, and would potentially only benefit the listener 😅. UV5R was known for lots of static, there’s a small software hack that solves this, I can send you more info if you need. I think the UV9R won’t be having this issue.

Self declaration: I have more than 20 drives in the UAE over the last 6 months and hoping for a Fewbie promotion after this drive. (e.g. Al Badayer, Qudra, Al Faqa, Nazwa, Lisaili, Sweihan driven). Thank you.

a glimpse of @Alphin Aloor

great fast paced drive, @Simon D...good to meet up with @Cha - after quite a gap and drive again with @Amir Amiri. Good job by @Alphin Aloor , couple of scary maneuvers at the first half of the drive but later came to terms with his Y61 not yet...since this is the second time i'm damaging one, thinking of a metal guard. 🤞