Zed

confirmed @Varun Mehndiratta, just saw there's still space in this drive 😁

8 hours ago, Gaurav said:

Apart from Fredy, you also got 9 votes for this selection.

Wow that's even cooler, a 10 out of 10 😁 Thank you @Gaurav and @Carnity team for granting this. And congrats to the others too, good job everyone, keep up the spirit 🫡 @Asif Hussain@M.Seidam@Looper@DP1011@GauravSoni

2 hours ago, Looper said:

The first video is a couple of refusals I faced and the self-recovery. It shows what to do and what not to do during refusal situations.

The second part of the drive was extremely exciting, but I do not want hours-long video, so it is just a few clips.

Key Moments:    Part 1 Minutes 2:16 and 9:35 ,    Part 2 Minutes 2:14 and 9:10

@Looper where is the tall dune climb towards the end? Memory full / battery run-outs? 😄

@M.Seidam @DP1011  i have updated my signature to reflect my Decision Process:

For now, simple: only LC has the night lights 😂

20 minutes ago, Frederic said:

Why ? You need the extra hours to assemble your LC again ?

no 4-6pm is my Siesta time aka evening sleeping 😂

1 hour ago, Frederic said:

@Srikumar@Santoso Marjuki@Imran Kashif@Amr Aydin@Gok Krish

Thanks for joining in and for the great evening under the stars ! The weather was a blessing and although the terrain was mostly technical, i think we all had some good fun.

@Gok Krish

I hope your passenger felt better after exiting, at least he looked a lot better while inflating  These things happen and the combination of flickering flood lights and bumpy dunes do not make things easier.

See you all soon in the sands again !

 

@Frederic you gotta repeat this but maybe 9pm meeting time instead of 6pm 😅

1 hour ago, Fabien Monleau said:

At the end, seeing @Zedflying and not feeling taking off at my turn, I took a little bit on my left and I got stacked on the crest.

I like your calm & composed handling of the senior LC 76 👍🏻, treating it as a precious gem being navigated through a fun journey to reach the rewarding exit 🏆 .  

I'm still at the euphoria phase after getting my LC 100 back, especially with the Unichip and open cone air filter removed, so at times I push too much on the throttle worrying I don't have enough speed when in fact i have enough 😂 Great driving together,  until next time, fellow LandCruiser 🫡

5 minutes ago, Gerrit Bus said:

I have already prepared myself mentally for a similar scenario. This is going to take many months I am afraid.

first wait until you have confirmation Insurance will cover 100% of all repairs. Once confirmed, browse Facebook Marketplace, Telegram Buy & Sell Offroad Cars, etc.. you will see ads like 8,000dhs Cherokee, 10,000dhs PathFinder, 15,000dhs Jeeps. Buy it since you need a weekend car anyways, then sell it again when it's winter and once you get your Gladiator back 😊

7 minutes ago, Gerrit Bus said:

It has now been two weeks and the repairs have not even started yet. I am still waiting for the insurance to give the go ahead. Then parts need to be ordered from the USA. So this is going to be a long road.

don't want to be a bad-news bearer, but it took Nissan 3 months to fix my Y62 after rollover, and that is with constant whats-app-ing the supervisor every week on the progress 🥲. Their reason was the roof had to be ordered from Japan and sent via sea as some parts cannot be air-shipped...  but I'm not convinced 💁‍♂️

@Looper don't forget to charge Insta360 +bring extra batteries and memory cards 😄  This will look epic on video 👍

On 6/8/2023 at 11:38 AM, CasperPL said:

Hello again group.

As you might know from my previous topic I am currently searching for a car. I just managed to find a JL model from 2019 used by the travel company. From the report provided by them the car has several issues: 

1- Replace wiper blade 2- Replace RHS and LHS VVL seal 3- Replace battery 4- Replace spark Plug 5- Replace brake fluid flush 6- Replace steering gear box 7- Tyre calibration 8- Hand break adjustment 7- ESP-PCM-HVAC-IPC Software updates 8- Replace coolant flush 9- Replace engine oil, rear oil seal, front oil seal 10- Replace sump releasing 11- Replace air make up hose 12- Replace time cover gasket 13- Replace PLIG seal 14- Replace cover sensor seal 15- Replace LHS and RHS valve gasket cover and nut bolt oil assembly

Can you roughly estimate the costs of the repairs and maybe recommend a garage which can take care of it for a reasonable price? 
I still haven't purchased the car, as I am trying to estimate the value.

Steering gearbox or Steering Rack or Rack & Pinion is expensive. I'll copy-paste original Mopar parts in US$, it might be slightly cheaper in the UAE, but for American cars not so much price difference:

6. Steering gearbox: US$ 364

3. Main Battery $291 + Aux Battery $162

15. The gasket covers are cheap as they are gaskets, but the labour to replace them might go between 300-500 dirhams depending on garage:

3 hours ago, munkybizness said:

Hence, when you've done about 4 to 5 drives, it's a good thing to also get your under-chassis pressure washed to remove any sand that's caked on. 

Actually best practice is to go to manual car wash after every last drive of the day (so if you drive both Saturday & Sunday you should wash the underbody Sat night & Sun night). I asked my mechanic why I had to replace 2 steering pumps within 6 months and 1 steering rack within a year and he said both parts were cemented with hard-dried-sand and told me I must have forgotten to wash the underchassis for a long time 😂

4 hours ago, Benjamin said:

since I got the hurricane shocks and doing daily offroading they do squeak, never thought it was an issue. maybe I should go back to AM.Wrangler to get them lubricated or something?

squeaking is mostly bushings, not related to the shocks... though the top part and lower part have eyelet bushings to bolt onto the frames. If your shock bushings are metal, use PTFE spray to lubricate the top & bottom eyelets first before going back to the installer.

Another source of squeaking is Upper Control Arm balljoints, this is easy to check by lifting the car up and slowly lowering it down. Or in absence of high jacks / lift machine, by standing on the front bumper and bouncing it up & down 😂 

On a recent drive, our friend's Jeep went into Limp Mode with these OBD error codes:

We will talk about P2110 which basically means certain conditions have told the Computer (ECU/ECM) to tell the Electronic Throttle Body to go into Limp Mode (reduced RPM and restricted gearing). In the above scenario, P0776 is probably the condition that triggered the Computer, but it could be other conditions.

Anyways, when a Jeep goes into Limp Mode, you will notice that Zeus has thrown the bolt at you:

Jeep has these "hidden pedal dances" , the famous one is when you get Oil Service Light and you can tell the computer to forget about it and remind me 5000kms later.

The Jeep Pedal Dance to tell the Electronic Throttle Body to "mind your own business, I need to go home (or garage) is:

1. Insert key to ON but DON'T START ENGINE.

2. WAIT 10 seconds for some warning lights to disappear. Check Engine Light (CEL) may remain, and that's fine. I'm talking about other lights like Battery light etc.

3. SLOWLY PRESS gas pedal within 10 seconds all the way down to the floor.

4. SLOWLY RELEASE gas pedal within 10 seconds all the way up.

4. Turn key to OFF position

5. Now turn key to ON and START ENGINE.

6. Test if Throttle Body is not in Limp Mode by pressing gas pedal.

6. Repeat if Bolt Check Light still on.

2 hours ago, GauravSoni said:

i will update the drive plan and unveil a surprise element shortly . stay tuned!

Surprise Element is always split convoy, so hope is not lost for the WaitListers... in that case, i'll add myself to WL 😁

Sorry @Frederic I wrongly compared 1st Gear 4Lo with 1st Gear 4Hi, should be 4th Gear 4Lo (cos my transmission is 4-speed) and 1st Gear 4 Hi., So the new calculation

D. 4Lo Crawl Ratio on 4th Gear 4Lo

= 0.75 4th Gear x 3.12 4Lo x 4.88 front & rear diff = 11.42 on 4th Gear 4Low

E. 4Lo Crawl Ratio on 3rd Gear 4Lo

= 1.00 3rd Gear x 3.12 4Lo x 4.88 front & rear diff = 15.23 on 4th Gear 4Low

Yes you're right, my 3rd Gear 4Lo (point E) will now be similar to my 1st Gear 4Hi (point C) once I upgrade to 10% underdrive gear on the transfer case 😁

2 hours ago, Frederic said:

Would that basically turn your 4H into a semi-4Lo ?

So let's calculate that:

A. 4Lo Crawl Ratio on 1st Gear 4Lo

My 4Lo ratio is 3.12 : 1, so if i hit 1st Gear on 4Lo (1st gear ratio is 2.80), my Crawl Ratio will be 👇🏻

[ Transmission Ratio of Current Gearstick x Transfer Case Ratio x Axle Ratio ] 

= 2.80 x 3.12 x 4.88 = 42.63 on 1st Gear 4Lo

B. 4Hi Crawl Ratio on 1st Gear 4H

Current 4H ratio is 1:1, so if I hit 1st Gear on 4Hi my Crawl Ratio will be 👇🏻

= 2.80 x 1 x 4.88 = 13.66 on 1st Gear 4Hi

C. Future project, gear reduction of 4H by 10%

This would mean my axle ratio is increased by 10%, so 4.88 + (10% of 4.88) becomes 5.37

= 2.80 1st Gear x 1 4Hi x 5.37 increased = 15.04 on 1st Gear 4Hi

So Mr @Frederic from point A, B, C, no my 4Hi won't be any close to 4Lo, it will actually just be 10% more torque than current 4H. Because of my 3.12 : 1 4Lo ratio, my 4L and 4H are like sand & sky apart (42 vs 13 crawl ratio) 😄

I changed my front diff & rear diff 4.30 gear ratio to 4.88 and I like it: both the torque and the speedometer correction since my tires are 285/70/17 (33") .  Since I like it so much for sand use, for my next project I'm ordering UnderDrive Gear for my Transfer Case.  Because my LC100 is Full Time 4WD, after transmission/gearbox it goes to Transfer Case before going to front & rear diffs. By modifying the Transfer Case gear, I'm re-gearing without changing both front & rear diffs (actually should have done this but parts was not available at the time). When I change the Transfer Case Output Gear, the output of front & rear diffs will be increased from 4.88 to 5.29, which will give me more torque.

The only downside to regearing is high RPMs and worse fuel mileage, but hey I can tow trucks and mileage for V8 sucks anyways 😂

Link for underdrive gear example: https://cruiserteq.com/sumo-gear-land-cruiser-transfer-case-10-underdrive-gear-set-fits-8x-100-series 

Done this, the reason I bash my Jeep more now than my LC100, cos the car feels a bit more Lexus quiet now 😂

Rear Wheel Wells, Front Firewall, Front Doors and Roof Liner are the best places to reduce outside noise to the driver. I actually created a Word doc for the garage with a list of example applications, lemme see if I can upload that here...

Hi @GauravSoni  the night drive finished at 3am, so after 5 hrs driving + 50 litres of petrol, both the car and driver felt 2 hrs of sleep won't be enough 😅 . Until next time bro, will take a rain check for today and i've removed myself from the list 🫡

33 minutes ago, GauravSoni said:

@Zed have you changed your plans.?

Nope, i was interrupted with meetings and forgot to click WaitList again for this drive. Will already be in Sweihan tonight for Sri's drive then sleep then hopefully alarm can wake me up 😂 Keep the convoy list, i'll just sneak up when i'm awake and arrive 👌🏻

On 5/24/2023 at 7:49 AM, MisterPoet said:

It seems it was only temporary relief, though the impact has been reduced but not completely gone.

I haven't changed rear upper and lower Trailing/Control arms yet; and I am totally unsure about doing it as I can't preempt will it resolve my issue or not; as I feel it in whole vehicle not in the rear only. 

At this stage, if the small bumps really bother you, then:

1. Look into trade-in options with Al Futtaim so you can get new LC200 with 5-years warranty. Also look into 0-km dealers that get older unsold stocks and offers 3-yrs warranty. The warranty period will save you headache as you just tell the dealer your problem and they will replace with all new original parts.

2. If trade-in is no option, before spending more money on parts, spend more money for dealer technician. For me, I try to avoid dealer unless it's electrical or other issues that normal mechanics can't solve. Usually there's a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) circulated to dealers if an issue occurs so often to many customers. Normal mechanics only work from experience and memory, they don't keep a database of previous issues on a system like dealers do.

3. If you reach this option, no trade-in and dealers quote 5000dirhams for diagnose + parts + labour, then DIY is your option. You need to spend time reading LC200 forums and see if others have solved this issue. Then create a plan or decision tree of what parts to replace. eg: if tires already replaced but still issue > then replace bearings > if bearings replaced but still issue > replace abc, etc...

A. My experience says anything happening at SPECIFIC (not all) speed range or rpm is circular mechanical parts, so these are tires + bearings + wheels which are easy fix first. Next would be anything Constant Velocity with Rubber boots: Front CV Axles + Flanges. If there's play or missing tooth, it will vibrate at some slow to medium speed. If it's Full Time 4WD / all wheels drive, the propeller driveshaft connecting Front + Rear Diff Pumpkins may need rebalancing + greasing. 

B. If all in A is done, find a used transmission/gear box and swap good used one to your LC200. That 80-100 km/h may mean specific seals, specific gears, specific accumulators, specific pistons, specific springs that work in that speed range are not optimal. Since opening up transmission/gear box is minimum 2000dhs, it's much more cost efficient to just swap transmission including valve body and torque converter, then opening up transmission. Parts may be 3000dhs but labour may be 500-700dhs. Total cost may be same, but an unopened good working condition gearbox is better than opening and rebuilding gearbox, cos it's hard to trust rebuilders these days 😊

PS: i've gone through 1-3 and A-B, that's why i can't sell my LC100, it's basically a new car with all new Toyota underbody mechanical parts 😂